Draining lever shocks?

[Aaron65]

I had the shocks on the '53 rebuilt 4 years ago, and they don't seem very effective; however, on cold mornings the thing rides like a dream. I can only figure that since cold oil is thicker, some thicker oil may help. I'd like to drain these things and fill them with maybe some heavier motorcycle fork oil...any ideas on how to drain them? Any alternative ideas are welcome, and I'm not above pulling them off to drain them from the filler either. Thanks!

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Aaron, perhaps you could use some kind of a suction device. A turkey baster comes to mind. I recall a suction "pump" we used in the '50s to suck oil from oil filters. Looked similar to a grease gun with hose on the end.

Where did you get yours rebuilt. Mine are leaking badly.

Ben

[Guest Oldie & Goodie]

Aaron,

I too would be interested to know where you had yours rebuilt. Couple of $$ I've seen range from $500 to $750 for all 4. Seems a bit high but then again I'm new to the game so I don't know if that's out of line or not?

Brian

Edited October 6, 2010 by Oldie & Goodie
Added name (see edit history)

[old-tank]

I had the shocks on the '53 rebuilt 4 years ago, and they don't seem very effective; however, on cold mornings the thing rides like a dream. I can only figure that since cold oil is thicker, some thicker oil may help. I'd like to drain these things and fill them with maybe some heavier motorcycle fork oil...any ideas on how to drain them? Any alternative ideas are welcome, and I'm not above pulling them off to drain them from the filler either. Thanks!

Remove the shock from the car, then remove the compression and rebound valves for inspection, draining and cleaning. You then need to refill the lower cylinders. Putting fluid in the reservior at the top will not get to the lower cylinders for a long time. After installing the rebound valve assembly (on the bottom), clamp the shock in a vise with the compression valve opening facing up. Add fluid slowly while moving the arm slowly until full and considerable resistance is felt. Install the compression valve assembly and then add fluid to the upper reservior. I use hydraulic jack oil with good results.

I once tried motorcycle fork oil and it made the shocks so stiff I broke a link. Not much goes wrong with these shocks except for leaks. I don't think you can wear them out unless run dry for a long time.

Willie

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

OK Willie, how difficult to stop LEAKS??

Ben

[old-tank]

OK Willie, how difficult to stop LEAKS??

Ben

Go to my web site under: Low Tech Tips for Mid 50's Buicks

[Cubelodyte]

I've read that one. The idea of cutting the shock arm gives me the willies.

[special55]

I've read that one. The idea of cutting the shock arm gives me the willies.

"the willies"

I get it. Good one.

I used Willies procedure with good success with one variation. I did not split the arm but instead used a heavy truck tie rod end puller. I positioned the shock/arm assembly into the puller and clamped the puller in the vise to prevent it from opening up(spreading). It was stuburn but it did come apart.

Unfortunately I did this some months ago and did not get photos.

I think I provided the tool manufacturer and number in a different thread some months back. I am not at work today so I can't get the exact number for you. I would think most any 2500 series truck tie rod puller would work though.

Other than that the procedure Willie has outlined on his website worked well.

Hope that helps and good luck with your shock reseal,

Rich

[old-tank]

I've read that one. The idea of cutting the shock arm gives me the willies.

Now I'm depressed after you chose that smiley .

Anyhow those cut arms have now been in service for 40,000 miles.

Willie