Engine Paint Code?

[64R]

Since I'll be rebuilding the motor I'll be painting it too. Those of you that have done this what did you use for color, do you have a paint code?

Thanks

[Guest Straight eight]

Sure do, BUT we need to know what year, model, of Buick as well as the engine size.

[RivNut]

Guessing from your signature line that you're asking about paint for the '65 Riviera, there are numerous vendors. POR-15 and Bill Hirsch sell the "Buick Green" in the correct shade. Classic Buicks and CARS, Inc. sell it as well. Krylon and Duplicolor sell a color called Alpine Green which is very close. POR-15 needs to be sprayed from a gun. Hirsch sells it in bulk and in aerosols. The Krylon and Duplicolor come in aersols. The over the counter Krylon and Duplicolor cost less, but a lot of times you'll get what you pay for.

[bb1970]

Everybody will fuss about this, but. I used Detroit Diesel engine paint. Is very close to the Buick green (I think it is anyhow). And it is available at your local auto-parts store. And it is inexpensive. You won't pay $50 for engine paint.

[64R]

Oops sorry about that, 64 Riv, 425 Nailhead. I want to spray a proper Paint with hardner like you would on the outside, for instance Dupont Single Stage Urethane. Aerosol isn't all that durable and I would like it to last, I don't mind spending more to get quality paint, it's usually worth it.

One other thing I just thought of, are the valve covers supposed to be a darker shade? Mine appear to be?

Edited August 12, 2010 by 64R (see edit history)

[RivNut]

The name of Detroit Diesel's paint is Alpine Green. One in the same.

I've never had a problem with burn off of these hi-temp enamels. They may come off after a while, but they don't burn off like a regular enamel will. However, I have heard of POR-15 coming off in chunks. ?????

I'm hoping that Eastwood will come out with their ceramic engine enamel in the 53-65 Buick Green.

Ed

[64R]

Thanks for all the info guys, I went to my jobber and they carry the POR15 line so they're getting me some Buick Green, I didn't know POR 15 made engine paint. As far as problems with delamination I would assume that's a prep issue much more than a product issue, at least I hope it is

[bb1970]

Prep is everything. I have used regular POR-15. That is the only stuff I've seen that will stick to nearly anything. And last.

[64R]

Prep is everything. I have used regular POR-15. That is the only stuff I've seen that will stick to nearly anything. And last.

I've painted quite a few cars, enough to know that delamination is almost always a prep problem but I'm not familiar with POR 15 paint so nice to hear a vote of confidence in the product, thanks for that. I have used their rust stuff upon occasion and it sure does stick, especially to you

I'm going to thin it and spray it rather than brush it on, I'm better with a spray gun than a brush and it's a lot faster.

[bb1970]

That's what I was talking about was the "rust stuff".

[64R]

I wonder if the engine paint is the same stuff more or less as the rust stuff but with a different tint? I'll have to check out thier site and see what I can find out.

[Paul K.]

I have used the 'Ford Green" engine enamel by Duplicolor #DE1617 for years. It looks like the correct color and I heard about it from a Riv enthusiast. Anyone else used this color?

[Guest Gee_Rydes]

I'm a POR15 guy. The only burn-off I ever had was on my 71' 455 near the exhaust ports, but if you look at ANY 455, you will never see paint that sticks to that especially hot spot on the heads.

Take a look at my facebook page for some real world 65 Riv buick green POR15 engine enamel.

I love the stuff!!

[RivNut]

Paul,

Ford Green is what Classic Buicks sells as Buick Green. If your car is standing alone, the color is not bad. However, if it is standing next to a car whose engine has been painted with the POR-15 or Bill Hirsch color, it's obvious that it's not correct. I seriously doubt if you'll loose any points for this at any BCA meet. IMHO, the Alpine Green is a better choice than the Ford green if you can't go with the POR15 or the Hirsch color.

Ed

[Paul K.]

Ed, thanks for the clear answer for all of us. Next time my engine is out, I'll get the right stuff.

[64R]

I still have one nagging question, what color are the valve covers, they certainly look darker than the block.

[Paul K.]

Not sure who the question is for, I never posted a pic of my engine.

[64R]

Not sure who the question is for, I never posted a pic of my engine.

The question is for anyone that can answer it, not anyone in particular

Here's a picture of mine, I don't know how well it shows but the valve covers and alternator bracket are at least a shade or two darker

[Guest Gee_Rydes]

Should all be the same. Sometimes when valve covers are removed for servicing, they will be freshened up and look a bit different.

Also, they are made of different material and handle different amounts of heat so maybe they age differently?

[RivNut]

At some time in the past, the engine has been repainted some weird blue; looks like a Pontiac color. As Dave says, different metals, different effect on the paint. The basic reason I'm adding to this thread is to let you know that from the factory, Buick DID NOT use exhaust manifold gaskets. Each surface is machined flat and bolted together. Engine heat cannot work it's way out through the exhaust if it's insulated from the exhaust manifolds. If you're going to remove the manifolds to paint, try reinstalling them without the gaskets.

Ed

[64R]

Should all be the same. Sometimes when valve covers are removed for servicing, they will be freshened up and look a bit different.

Also, they are made of different material and handle different amounts of heat so maybe they age differently?

Thanks for the information, if I'm going to all the trouble I may as well do it right.

At some time in the past, the engine has been repainted some weird blue; looks like a Pontiac color. As Dave says, different metals, different effect on the paint. The basic reason I'm adding to this thread is to let you know that from the factory, Buick DID NOT use exhaust manifold gaskets. Each surface is machined flat and bolted together. Engine heat cannot work it's way out through the exhaust if it's insulated from the exhaust manifolds. If you're going to remove the manifolds to paint, try reinstalling them without the gaskets.

Ed

Well that's something entirely new to me, no exhaust manifolds gaskets. Thanks for letting me know, I'll try it that way and hope there's no exhaust leaks.

[RivNut]

The attached link is from a forum where only the "nailhead" engine is discussed. Whether it's in stock form, modified, no matter what body it's running in. Alcohol dragster, T-buckets, rat rods, customs, and stockers. Really good engine information.

Here's a thread that ran on exhaust manifolds without gaskets. Read through it, and you'll have a really good understanding of why you don't want to run gaskets.

Ed

Consensus on Using Exhaust Manifold Gaskets or Not - V8Buick.com

[64R]

Thanks for the link Ed, that was an interesting read. I've always assumed you used gaskets. I wonder how true my manifold surface is? I gues I'll find out.

[Lapham3]

I go along with Paul K on the Ford Green. For me, it's the best match to the orig paint that has been aging for 45+ years=great for touch up on original. I've used some of the others to match past later paint work. I like the Detroit Allison but don't think it's all that true to factory either-Dan

[64R]

I got my jobber to bring in POR15's Buick green with their next order a while ago, should be in this week. I'm in no hurry, I don't think my builder will be ready to take it for a bit. I'll be pulling the motor sometime in September and will post pics eventually when it's all done.

Thanks to all for the replies and information.

[Guest Gee_Rydes]

Having used WAY too much POR15, just be absolutely certain the prep is good. Brush it on with a solvent brush and do 2 coats. They have a marine clean and a metal etch product that may help, but that etch REALLY has to be cleaned off. I don't use that unless I have questionable areas.

I photo documented much of my own engine paint process.

The brush on deal makes touch up fantastic. You will be impressed with how much paint (solids) are actually going on your engine rather than into the air with a rattle can. It is more of a coating than a paint just cause of the thickness. It flows out beautifully on the cast surfaces and you may have to do a slight sanding between coats on the sheetmetal stuff (valve covers, oil pan, valley pan) to aid in the flow out process.

OK, I'll stop...but I love it!

[64R]

Thanks Gee, I was going to thin it 10% with their thinner and spray it on. I know from using it myself that even with brushing it on it flows out pretty good but spraying should be even better, particularly on shiny surfaces. I do know all about prep, I've painted quite a few cars and that's the most critical step, you don't want it coming off in sheets or having sanding scratches, fish eyes, etc.

Do you have a link to your engine paint process? Always fun to see what others have done.

[Guest Gee_Rydes]

Click that Facebook link in my signature.

I have about 500 pictures in there of the build so far.

[64R]

WOW!! :eek: That is stunning :D I'm not at all facebook saavy to put it mildly, so forgive the questions that are probably right there in front of my old nose. First off is the stance, how much and how did you lower it? As far as the engine goes, are those valve covers aftermarket or did some Riv's come with them? I have collector plates on mine which means I have to stay bone stock, for now anyway. I'm not a purist by any means but until they move the "altered collector" status up from 1958 I only get dirt cheap insurance in stock form, full ticket if it's altered.

[Guest Gee_Rydes]

First, this will hijack the thread, BUT it is YOUR thread so what the hell right?

Jamco 3 inchers with a bit more cut off the front. Rear arms notched to get a additional inch or so. Valve covers are Moon. They are the only ones without a name that look really nice (I think).

There are a few other cars on the page. The big build is still in primer and I am almost done with the engine compartment. The stock Champagne one I did about 3 years ago. The beige one with wide whites is a buddy's car. That is the one we perfected the suspension "formula" on. That car rides really nice, turns without rubbing on 215/75/15's in the front, and doesn't bottom out under most normal circumstances. I like full time lowered cars cause they ALWAYS look cool. Plus, with bags or other articulating suspensions, I think it puts WAY too much stress on control arm bushings.

If you have any other questions, feel free to send an email so I don't abuse the forum space...unless others want to hear too.

[64R]

Thanks for the info, the stance looks perfect, I would love to do that to mine one day. As time permits I'll be reading through your build in great detail, looks like you do great work!

[Jojo65]

I see this is an old thread, I need some engine paint for my 65 rivi. I see Por-15 has two colors listed Buick Green and Buick Turquoise Green. Any updates on the correct green and where to purchase it? Thanks, 

[RivNut]

You want POR-15 Buick green for 1953 -1966