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Everything posted by 64R

  1. Or at least it should be, mine was siliconed on even though the studs on the trim weren't broken. Guess they ran out of speed nuts?
  2. Thanks Scott I'll look that up, given a choice I would like to remove the ones that stayed in the panel for better body work finishing and the one that stuck on the spear may not want to go back in and hold correctly, and that's just the one side, haven't pulled the other one off yet. Good thinking, that makes good sense, and yes replacing it only to be in the same boat would be all kinds of frustrating. Again, that does make good sense, you do use the front windows a lot more than the rear ones. Gummed up definitely describes the way it tries to work. The rear switch only wants to bring the window up so it may be faulty so I will order one of those. The front control works in both directions other than the window getting stuck.
  3. Funny you should mention it but my rear side window motor isn't working all that great, need to help it down by hand while pushing the button. If they make new motors I'll replace it, if not maybe they can be rebuilt. Fortunately my heater core is ok for now, that is a nightmare job on virtually any car but no doubt even worse on a Riv. I have rebuilt the engine so she runs like a dream and has stainless exhaust so some of that stuff is in good shape. Speaking of rear window trim what's the trick to getting that off? Usually I use one of those Y shaped tools but most trim is 4 pieces not 6 super tight ones. Is there a particular piece to start with? Yes Mitch I noticed how incredibly flimsy the sail panel is easily leading to tiny dents. I've been trying to find new square barrel clips but haven't had any luck so far. I know they make the rectangular ones for the horseshoe trim so I would have thought they would make the square ones too?
  4. Oh yes Ed I do realize that, and up here in the rain forest it's even worse. You really can't find any good used anything as we're all in the same leaky boat, literally. Honestly the worst design of all time, having to tear so much of your car apart to remove a piece of trim. Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the glass too needs to come out, which is totally idiotic. Of course cars were never built with any consideration to taking them back apart. I just want to refurbish it for now not do a full frame off restoration. I've already got 3 of those on the go. The Riv just started to fall apart a bit as you may have seen in my earlier pics where I fixed the tail panel. Just want to keep it alive for now until it's turn comes up.
  5. Yes it is the sweeps and has luck would have it I found that they do repop them, OldBuickParts sells for $95 a set. I'll be ordering them soon. Thanks for the names Ed, I'll keep that in mind when I need something that definitely isn't repopped. Being that I live on a rock off the west coast of Canada, shipping bits and pieces are a pain and can be pricey
  6. Well that's great news. Odds of finding one of those in useable condition is about zero. Guess I'll be figuring out how to create my own
  7. Ok before I destroy my car entirely can I get confirmation that the only way to remove this trim is to gut half my interior? I'll run into traffic if I tear it all apart and still can't access the screws Remove rear seat so you can remove the arm rest Remove arm rest Remove door panel Remove glass to access the screws that are an inch lower After all that there will be access holes through the steel to the screws????
  8. Well I sure hope they repop this piece, mine is completely rotted out. I'm not sure how I can even access the screws into the trim without removing the glass. Just a very awkward way to remove trim, nothing like any other car I've worked on
  9. Ok got it. I just want to get the rear quarters and roof sorted out for now. Still working on my new shop but started to go crazy not working on a car for so long. I fixed the tail panel a couple months ago.
  10. Boy this sounds like fun. I'm pretty baffled about the rubber seal? The trim is not even half an inch wide and seems to be right tight to the drip rail, can't imagine where there would be a rubber seal? I'll look harder tomorrow. Doesn't help that my picture uploading skills aren't up to snuff. Thanks for your help Ed!!
  11. That worked, got the spear part off, a bit nerve wracking prying on it, was stuck pretty good. Next question(s) how do you get the part forward of it off? runs under the quarter glass and also under the door glass. And just for kicks how do you get the trim that runs up the sail panel on a 45 degree angle and then along the drip rail, sure looks to be on very tight. [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
  12. Thanks guys, I'll give it a try this afternoon when I have some time. Cheers
  13. Well you guys were right about the rear piece, in theory, apparently it had been removed before so why bother with that whole awkward speed nut attachment when you can just goo it all in with a good old tube of silicone Anyway once I figured that out it sure came off easy. The side trim spear is another story, there's a speed nut at the far end but nothing forward that I can reach from the trunk so I assume I will have to do some interior removal, wasn't really hoping to get to deep at this point but we'll see how she goes. Cheers and thanks!
  14. I started picking away at the Riv again (1964), it's been a while. Most of the trim removal I understand but this bit that runs along the door and out under the sail panel confuses me? How would you remove this without damaging it? If I could figure out the quarter panel part, the door part should be obvious. There's also the rear ribbed piece behind the glass that I would assume you pry off like the horse shoe trim side pieces but if I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks for any help [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
  15. I gather you only wanted favourable opinions, you should have mentioned that in your original post before you got offended. We all have varied opinions and most here are very informed at that. No doubt a very cool car so sock away your money and buy it when it comes up, you're the only one that needs to love it, whether it be it green or any other color.
  16. 64R

    Horn problem

    When I bought my 64 Riv the horn wasn't working, the guy had swapped in a tilt column and didn't hook up the horn for some reason. Fast forward a bunch of years and I'm retired and have more time to deal with the many little issues all my cars have. So I went to hook up the horn only to discover it is missing the important bits, being the green plastic insert with attached green wire and the brass ring that seats in it. I have no idea where that would have gone. He did give me the original steering column so I figured I'll just pull the missing bits out of there, but naturally they're a totally different size, tilt shaft is about an inch in diameter, non tilt about 3/4". Anybody have a busted up tilt column that I could buy the bits from? Or any ideas on how to get around this? He installed a toggle switch half way down the column that works but looks stupid and isn't exactly easy to get to when you're about to get sideswiped. These are the parts from the non-tilt that I'm missing, need the larger diameter version
  17. Thanks Ed, knowing the exact spot to drill the holes is a bonus!
  18. Thanks for the info! Mine didn't come with the rear belts, still optional at that time. It's just nice to have them for the odd time I have a couple of extra people in it. I'm sure many of the worst drivers on the planet live in my area so it's worth having them.
  19. Is there anybody out there making period correct rear seat belts for Riv's? I have a 64 and I'm sure I've seen seat belts listed at a site like CARS in the past but can't find anything now? Thanks
  20. Does anybody know if there is a suppier that makes rear seat belts for a 64 Riv? I'm sure I saw some on some site like CARS a few years ago but I can't find anything. I know I can go to an upholstery shop and get some generic ones but I would prefer period correct. Thanks
  21. Here's the biggest and the smallest
  22. While you're waiting you can cut out the piece and fab up the patch. It isn't critical to roll beads in it but its certainly desirable, stiiffens the panle immensely. Ideally it should be butt welded as mentioned but even stock pans often have lapped areas. This is one I'm doing right now on a 65 Stang, it's only tacked in at the moment but the front and right side will be butt welds and the back is a lap with spot welds as it came from the factory. This is a repop pan so it has all the beads in it. I don't know if they make replacement sheet metal for our Rivs? I haven't needed any yet.
  23. Well it's a bit harder than that if you want to really do it right, you'll need a bead roller to duplicate the ones you cut out to give it strength. It sounds like you want to lap weld it when you say "shape a slighty bigger piece" which is fine but then you should ideally weld the bottom as well so you don't have the lap fill with gipe when you drive, you could just seam seal it but welding is better. Also you may end up needing a bigger patch than you think as welding to thinner semi rusty metal can be a challenge. As far as rust inhibiting paint, that would be epoxy primer if you're referring to the new metal, POR15 and the like are meant for rusty metal not fresh clean metal.
  24. I was getting 7mpg until I rebuilt it, about 12 mpg now. Mine's actually a 425 but I doubt the mileage would vary from a 401 and no ethanol here.
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