Starter issues

[DAVES89]

Today went to start my black Reatta [winter car] and when I turned the key to start it the starter caught for just a second and them disengaged. Turning the ignition to "off" and then back to "start" does not reingage the starter.

All other lights worked, as a matter of fact turned on the headlights, they popped up and illuminated well.

I am thinking the starter just went bad. I am thinking of jumping the starter to the battery with the key in the "run" position to be sure. That is unless anyone else has any other ideas.

Ronnie, you might remember this car as Snowdrifts car. If you remember you had him jumper some component mounted on the tranny. Do you think that might be related?

Thanks

[Guest Richard D]

It could be your transmission lockout switch if it had been jumped, or the selenoid may have failed.

[Barney Eaton]

It could be anything from a low battery, a bad connection, to a tired starter.

I had a 1991 that would not engage on the first try....it got worse and I pulled it, cleaned, lubed and reinstalled with no real improvement. I finally got a rebuild and the problem went away.

[padgett]

Considering the age and for $60 for a complete rebuilt starter and new solenoid, I just replace the assembly if there is any problem. Same-same for the alternator. Both are simple jobs.

Now when you say "diengaged" do you mean it stopped spinning or it started spinning without turning the engine ?

[DAVES89]

The starter just stopped. No free spining of the selonoid... nothing. Rotated key to off, turned back to start... nothing. What is fooling me is the initial grind of about 2 seconds then nothing.

[Ronnie]

Ronnie, you might remember this car as Snowdrifts car. If you remember you had him jumper some component mounted on the tranny. Do you think that might be related?

Thanks

I doubt that is the problem if... the jumper was installed properly. I believe I recommended soldering the connections. If he did that there should be not be a problem. I would rule out other problems first like bad battery cable connection (do the headlights still burn when the key is turned to start?), neutral safety switch and a bad starter. Below is a diagram of what was changed to bypass the theft deterrent system.

[DAVES89]

A little history.

When I met at Jim Finns to buy the car, it ran great. I drove it up on the dolly and towed it home. When I tried starting it when I got home, turned the key... nothing.

Called my mechanic friend over, he looked around under the hood, saw the wire you helped the previous owner with, jostled it and told me to start it. It started. He just used a solderless connection. My buddy took the car home soldered it and all was good until yesterday.

So unless someone has a different idea, I will go with the lead from the positive side of the starter to the battery. This will bypass ignition and bypass nuetral safety switch. BTW the battery cable was replaced by a service shop so it is new [i have the reciept]. I also jostled the connection that my friend soldered, no difference.

[Ronnie]

Did your mechanic solder both connections, one on each end of the jumper wire? Jumping straight to the starter would be good to isolate the problem as being a starter problem or something else. Let us know what you find.

[DAVES89]

As the wires were up on top of the starter and hard to reach I decided to just pull the starter. When I got the bolts out the big positive lead was tight but the small ignition lead nut was backed off about 4 turns and rusted in place. [i think this was my problem] As long as I had it out I took it to Advance and had it tested.

It tested out good. I did not have time to reinstall so I have the starter at home and will reinstall next week as time permits.

I just find it hard to believe that it would work being so loose.

[padgett]

I never cease to be astounded at the condition of some cars that drive in.

[Ronnie]

While the starter is off would be a good time to test the wiring between the starter and the trans-axle position switch (park/neutral switch) to eliminate it as being a problem.

[DAVES89]

What is your recomendation on the procedure to test?

[padgett]

First step is to see if you get 12v at the solenoid connection when you turn the key to start.

If the starter were still on, I'd see if there was a "click" from the solenoid but sounds like you are past that.

[Ronnie]

Remove the wiring connector from the trans-axle position switch. Then, using a meter, test the purple wire pin in the connector for continuity with the end of the wire that connects to the starter.

[Ronnie]

First step is to see if you get 12v at the solenoid connection when you turn the key to start.

If the starter were still on, I'd see if there was a "click" from the solenoid but sounds like you are past that.

Dave, if you do that with the starter off it will require the battery to be connected. Be SURE to take care that the hot wires that were connected to the starter don't come into contact with a ground or you will be seeing 4th of July fireworks show a little early.

[DAVES89]

Installed the starter today and it works great.

Problem is the car now won't start. I hear the fuel pump run and I checked the valve for gas and the pressure seemed good.

Tomorrow when I go back I will bring my spark tester and see if I have spark. I did the Padgett coil pack upgrade, but will bring the old Magnavox coil pack as well.

Unless anyone has any other ideas...

[Guest squiretom]

hi all

the starter in my '91 seems to bind up occasionally , but only when the engine is 'hot'.

if i release the key and try again it starts. have never been stranded .... yet.

is it the starter motor or something else?

[padgett]

Probably the solenoid but for $60 I just get everything.