oldcar Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thank you Roger & PatThe silly part is that it never crossed my mind. When you think about it it is quite logical.Back to workBernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) Hi AllAs Ben can tell us "Time flies when you are having fun" Todays fun centred around the brass bevel gears at the base of the steering box operated by the the hand controls in the centre of the steering wheel for the spark & gas.First task was to remove the square plate on the end of the steering box this has the pedestal for the cross shaft as part of the casting. Of course I had put it on 180 degrees out of position. Next step was to sort out which gear went with which and in what position. That done the next step was to sort out the spacing so the gears meshed correctly. "Easy peasey" I hear you say? Well not for me, I spent an hour or so doing trial assemblies trying different combinations of shim washers until I got a passable mesh. Right now I cannot complete the task of fitting the quadrant and hand levers until I get made a suitable "barrel" nut to secure the steering wheel. That may take a week or two. I am also waiting (impatiently) for some mail order slotted countersunk head 1/4 inch bolts to secure the toe board. I also need a second pair of hands to assist in fitting the split rivets locating the webbing around the top of the bulkhead. However on the plus side I now have the cowl vent installed and working well. Tomorrow's task will be starting to trim the various electrical cables to length and soldering on the ends.While on the subject of electrical fittings I am still looking for one of the pressed metal junction box covers for the engine side of the bulkhead.Bernie J. Edited February 14, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 If you take enough little steps you will eventually arrive at your destination. Every restoration is the culmination of lots & lots of little steps.This morning I have been busy with my soldering iron. As shown here I have decided to use the junction box cover from inside the bulkhead on the under hood side and to fabricate a new cover for the the inside. This afternoon I will make a start on the cables from the bulkhead to the switch etc,Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 That's good looking, Bernie! You are right, the restoration of a car (or whatever) is the addition of many steps, like the building of my model. As a whole, it's discouraging, but bit by bit, it's douable. You cannot eat an elephant in one mouthful!It's certainly not correct for the era, but I would use shrink tubes in place of the black tape, it's more stable with the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Hi RogerI have thought about using shrink tube but rejected it as not within the period.The tape I use is correct bitumen backed cotton tape. Just like auto electricians would have used in the 1920s. The same way that I use cotton braided cable instead of PVC covered wires. I solder on terminal ends rather than using crimp on "ends". Much slower and time consuming but they look right because they are right.I must be getting too old to change. I have just received my membership renewal from the RAC(Victoria) for the 56th time. Helen and I celebrate our 50th Wedding Anniversary in two months time. Another thing that I am not looking to change, I still drive the Peugeot 405SRi that we bought in 1996. I have no plans to change the Packard wheels to "Mags" with 15 X 10 low profile tires either. That way I won't have to bother about fitting Power Steering.Every so often I take one of my 120+ P G Wodehouse (Pronounced Woodhouse) books off the shelf, I still manage to get a chuckle even after reading some of them four or five times.You don't have to be mad but it sure as hell helps.......Bernie J. Edited February 15, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 The tape I use is correct bitumen backed cotton tape. Just like auto electricians would have used in the 1920s. The same way that I use cotton braided cable instead of PVC covered wires. I have no plans to change the Packard wheels to "Mags" with 15 X 10 low profile tires either. That way I won't have to bother about fitting Power Steering.This material is far superior than the vinyl tapes. With the time, this tape is getting very stable unlike vinyl tape.I would not either put mag wheels on that Packard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thank You RogerSince I found a source for Cotton tape some years ago I have never bought vinyl/plastic tape. I have never had a failure with it loosing its adhesive quality if anything the reverse.The bit about the mag wheels was simply my warped sense of humour.Too much P G Wodehouse.Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) Meanwhile work continues with the trim panels trial fitted and the switch and amp meter/oil gauge installed into the dash. This part of the wiring is now complete except for the dash light and the cigar lighter. When these were last seen they were in a shed somewhere in Maine.Bernie J Edited February 16, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Hi Bernie,,,,It would seem that the toeboard will need to be removed to the rear,,,as there is a slot[channel] cut in wood board that lines the passenger side of the firewall,,By pulling the radiator neck foreward,,it just barely allows the boss on the end of the cable to pass by,,,Pics will follow,,, The temp was almost 10f above freezing,,a nice day here for this time of year,,,Cheers,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks BenI had noted the slot for the cable but not having found a cable yet had not realised how tight the fit was. There are just eight 1/4 inch screws securing the cast aluminium toe-board so it is not too much of a problem. By contrast we are still having days in the mid 30s C. Last night we had our first decent rain (10mm) since New Year. It is amazing how quickly plants in the garden respond. I will send you an e-mail re your dash light and cigar lighter.Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Those 1/4" screws you mention get kinda tight after 85 years of not being disterbed,,,hahaha,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) Hi BenFortunately for me the ones in my Single Six are all new and have only been fitted for the first time this week so hopefully they should still be relatively easy to unscrew. Better still while new countersunk head 1/4 UNF they did not have makers or grade marking on the head so they could be put straight in. No need to grind off brands or to polish the heads although depending on available time, if they have to come out again I might just polish the heads, or perhaps better still take then and get them nickel plated. What do you think would be more desirable?Oh hum, life does get boring at times.......Bernie J. Edited February 17, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 The cable offered some resistance on removal but our most confidant staff were able to remove the cable with very little damage. We estimate that it is less than a foot longer than when we started. My Malaprop manual says to shrink it back to size boil in a brew of battery acid and brine for somewhat less than 6000 linear hours. We are now summoning the packaging crew, although, they may be delayed because the snow is thin and the sledding is tough. Please pass the word that this fine old Packard is still available, in one lump or by the pound (cast iron pound not sterling pound). While not complete, it has all the essentials, getting it running should only take a short while. Any and all guarantees/warranties/vague suggestions are null and void.Sincerely, Benp.s. Be sure to give my regards to Mrs. Malaprop when you see her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hi BenYou have made my day! If only you were closer your Packard could make an ideal next project. What a pity it is one of those common eight cylinder models. I would much prefer it if it had been one of the rare early sixes. Do you think you could cut off the back two cylinders for me and perhaps shorten the chassis a bit while you are about it? Oh yes... Do you have a spare wire wheel rear end to go with the spare front axle?Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yes I have 2 axles for series 443,,, [1928 ] front and rear ,,,with 8 bolt wire wheelsThe rim size is 20" There are 5 wheels,,complete w/ lock rings,Cheers,,,Ben,,,Hope you enjoyed the humor?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hi BenI think that we have a lot in common. It is just a pity that we live so far apart, even given the distance I really appreciate your friendship.CheersBernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Wasted an hour this morning. I had ordered som 3/16 clevis pins to fit to the hand control linkages earlier this week so drove out to the supplier only to discover they had managed to get in 3/8 pins Baah! However I could get a new 9/16 NF castle nut for the drop arm on the steering box so the trip was not entirely wasted. This afternoon has been devoted to finishing cutting out the interior trim panels and the little timber cap for the front door pillar.I managed to get one done so at least I know what is needed for the other side. These cappings are Black Walnut a really nice timber to work with. Once they are all finished and given a coat of clear they should look great. Edited February 18, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 It is nice to work with and looks gorgeous when finished. That wil look really classy especially with the brown color on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Yesterday I took a day off and went to The Vintage Drivers Club Swap Meet buying a plug for the horn wire where it connects to the bottom of the Steering column. An expenditure of $3. I managed to sell a bit of "garage Junk' so came out slightly ahead.While there I had a quick look at a newly restored 1929 Six Saloon. Very nicely done. The attached photo may help Donald decide about a sun visor for his car.Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hi Bernie,Tell me you didn't have a stall at the Yarra Glen Swap ?I was actually standing next to that car with a friend of mind discussing whether I should retain the spare wheel covers from my Dodge or just have the tyre in the guards as per that fine example. I never thought of asking if you'd be there !Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) Hi IanI have had the same site at Yarra Glen for years. Almost opposite where the 1918 Studebaker 7 passenger tourer was parked. Site 213, I have already booked it for next year. Don't sell much but catch up with a lot of friends. I took lots of photographs as I know that quite a few people are interested in early Studebakers. This one has been owned by the same man, now in his 80s, since the 1960s. I cannot believe that it has not sold at the price he is asking. $17,000. It has a modern down-draft carb fitted so he can fit an air filter but he still has the original carb and all that needs to be done to fit it is to turn the inlet manifold over.Bernie j. Edited February 24, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Bernie, I used to sell a few parts and literature (Owner's manuals and catalogs) at one of the largest meet in Switzerland. The last time was 2010, because they increase again the fee. I'm wondering what you paid at this swap meet?Then I'll tell you what I paid for a surface in the open air, 5 by 5 meters, till 2010. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hi RogerI pay Aust $15 for an open air site, I am not sure of the actual size as my site has a large oak tree growing in the middle. This is excellent as it gives lots of shade and protection if it rains. I have room to park the Peugeot and a couple of chairs and a folding table. It is about 100 metres from the main gate so most people pass by. As a club event the whole thing is run on a volunteer basis.Bernie J. I will send you a copy of the report I wrote for the Automobile magazine in the UK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hi Bernie,Damn....I would have introduced myself. Can't believe the Study hasn't sold at $17,000. I don't think Roger will be too impressed with the $15 you paid for the site. I have a feeling he paid a bucket load !Must catch up soon.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Wasted an hour this morning. I had ordered som 3/16 clevis pins to fit to the hand control linkages earlier this week so drove out to the supplier only to discover they had managed to get in 3/8 pins Baah! However I could get a new 9/16 NF castle nut for the drop arm on the steering box so the trip was not entirely wasted. This afternoon has been devoted to finishing cutting out the interior trim panels and the little timber cap for the front door pillar.I managed to get one done so at least I know what is needed for the other side. These cappings are Black Walnut a really nice timber to work with. Once they are all finished and given a coat of clear they should look great.Really, really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Bernie,The clear you are using, any particular brand etc. I dont have much wood ( in the floor is the bulk of it ) and I need to coat that so what do you use ?Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi IanFor things like the floor I use satin Estapol in a spray can.For the timber like the capping in the past I have used a wax finish but and still uncertain what to do with the Packard.In the past it would probably have beeb a hand rubbed Varnish.Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I don't think Roger will be too impressed with the $15 you paid for the site. I have a feeling he paid a bucket load !Ian Ian, it depends the sense "Roger will not be too impressed"...Thank you Bernie for the report. Now, the truth: the meet I was vendor is in fact more a US-car meet, with possiblity to sell goods relative or not to cars. There are usually about 1000 cars coming that first Sunday of May with a lot of people.I began to sell material at the meet in 1995 with success. At first, I shared a place with a friend for some years until he resigned. As I wrote, the space is about 5 x 5 meters (5.5 x 5.5 yards) and I paid CHF 350.- for that space. This amount represents today about US $ 380.00! You have to sell many things to break even...By chance, I had with me many owner's manuals I rescued from GM Suisse. At CHF 25 each, you have to sell 14 pieces to begin to make a small profit!For 2011, the price inceased to CHF 400; I decided that it was too much and I went as a visitor for free. I went with my '57 Brougham; I'm the guy at the back with white hair... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) Here we are and it is Wednesday morning already! Today I must make a start on making the patterns for the windscreen pillars. I have been giving these some serious thought, at first I had thought about fabricating them by silver soldering stock brass extrusions to obtain the desired profile. after the first experimental effort some weeks ago this was abandoned. Next thought was to machine them out of brass bar stock but the thought off all those hours of machining and all that brass going into the waste bin put paid to that. This morning I will try to develop my minimal wood working skills to make the required and aforementioned patterns. By making wood patterns I can adjust sizes and dimensions to achieve the most satisfactory (and pleasing) size and shape before committing them to metal. Wish me luck....Bernie J. Edited February 21, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Further to the above the first step is to calculate the angle of the at the base of the pillar to the side of the cowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Hi AllYou will be pleased to learn that I have not completely waisted my day. Having spend an hour or so cogitating and doing doodles on the back of an envelope I started working in my usual "free hand" style. I seem to think better in three dimensions. By 5.30 this afternoon I have completed the first of the two windscreen pillar patterns. The next should be much easier as I have done all the problem solving with this one. When cast in bronze any minor adjustments can be made during the "fettling" process prior to nickel plating. Of course this one will still require some minor filling and "dressing up" before it goes to the foundryBernie J. Edited February 22, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Bernie, don't forget that there is shrinkage when cast in bronze! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hello RogerYes, I have had several things cast in both bronze and aluminium in the past. While I don't own a set of Pattern makers rules & gauges, I think I have made sufficient allowance. No one I have talked to seems to be able to predict an exact figure. What percentage shrinkage do you allow for in your castings?Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 My books are not handy,,,,,From memory?,,,,,Quarter inch to the foot,,,Bronze is a higher temp ,,,,maybee a little more,,,Aaah,,,,google it,, Call the foundry,,,did I leave my coffee over there again,,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hi BenIt is all under control... My patterns are almost ready and should go to my friendly foundryman on Monday. Just one more coat of primer and another light sand.How did you get on with the post box?CheersBernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 No one I have talked to seems to be able to predict an exact figure. What percentage shrinkage do you allow for in your castings?Bernie, according to a wonder booklet, the shrinkage for bronze is between 0.8 to 1.5%.Years ago, for my '56 Biarritz, I let cast fin mouldings in bronze as good parts were not available. I overcame the problem by cutting the defective moulding at the edge, and elongated with bondo. When the casting parts came, I could adjust the length on the car and braze both halves together. The picture is showing where the brazing was done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Hi Roger With my windscreen pillars this is not quite so critical. The important dimension is the distance between the two inside faces of the pillars. This is governed by the width of the cowl which is not going to change. I have filled the mounting holes so these will be drilled after the castings are fettled (cleaned up ready for plating) The height is also not critical as the brass channel for the actual windshield frame will not be finally silver soldered together until the pillars are finished and trial fixed to the cowl. This will not be plated until it is soldered together. The very last operation will be to cut and fit the actual glass. I know I keep saying this but the simple fact is that I have done this sort of one off fabrication countless times before. I think that by now I have some idea of what I am doing. Building one off sports "specials" is very different to restoring a production car, where everything has been done on a production line several thousand times, each time exactly the same using exactly the same stock production part. Even then, it seems to me that a lot of so called restorers get it wrong!With the Packard while basically a stock factory body it would have been hand built 83 years ago. Like so many hand built cars there are no two that are precisely the same. Any one who has tried to fit a door from one seemingly identical pre 1925 car on to another will know what I am talking about.Then there is the added complication forced onto me by whoever cut the roof off. In effect the car has become a one off. This is especially true when it comes to the windscreen, top and interior trim. Having said that I am going to enormous lengths to keep the car in the spirit of the year it was first built. No Doubt there are the doubters who are saying "But it is not original, it is not being restored as it left the factory"My reply to them is two fold. First, yes you are right, but then it has not gone to China as pelletised scrap metal! Secondly wait until you see the finished product. Then and only then you can look at it but you will not be able to say "Look at what I have just done". Finally when it comes down to the bottom line there is only one person who has to like it. One person who can either be disappointed with the result or proud of what they have achieved. Before I bought the car it was widely offered for sale and there was only one person even vaguely interested in buying it and then again only one person silly enough to take on what has been and continues to be on occassion a mind-numblngly difficult task.Thank you for your interest and patience.Bernie J. Edited February 23, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Just for the record another pile of junk that no one wanted.and what it became. the 1938 SS-Jaguar 1.5-3.5 Special.Funny thing the last time I saw it it was in Switzerland.Another rough home built special obviously made by someone who did not have a clue!Bernie J.Want to see some more? I have dozens of photographs of one off sports specials that I have constructed over the years. Edited February 23, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Wow! I like that SS better than the real ones... and the real ones are quite stunning. I'd like to see more of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hi WestNice to hear from you again. I have about 50 Photographs of the SS-Jag, mainly in competition. I will select a couple more and e-mail then to you. Bernie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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