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1939 Dodge D11 Help...UH OH!!!!!


Guest 39DodgeD11

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Guest 39DodgeD11

Well guys, about a month ago i ran our 1939 D11 out of gas, it was sitting in our front yard and i started it and let it run while i mowed, to keep the battery charged up on it. Anyway, it ended up running out of gas.

Now, this last week i finally got around to putting 3.5 gal. in the tank as well as priming the carb to start it, i started it and drove it to our alley. I let it run some more as the battery was down while i ate. When i came back out it had died. So i tried restarting it to no avail. I primed the carb again, still nothing, not even a hint of fire. So i started checking for loose wires, checked the coil wires they seemed tight, not sure what to check for with my DVOM on the coil as to whether its good or not, but theres definitely NO SPARK getting to the cyl. head/spark plugs. Checked cap and rotor, both in good condition, clean no moisture etc etc. Checked fuel filter at first, can blow through it just fine, however this is not fuel related anyway as it wont fire with a primed carb either.

So where should i start, does anyone know what the resistance is on the primary and secondary of the coil? Im at a loss here and would REALLY like to get it running again!

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Try replacing the condenser. If that does not work, check the pig tails (little wires in side the distributor that connect the plate to the side posts). Sometimes they are broken inside the insulation. I disconnect one end and check with an ohm meter. Also, I would bypass the ignition switch (could be bad) to make sure you have a good current to the coil.

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Guest 39DodgeD11

how would i go about checking the coil voltage on the coil terminal as well as current to the coil.

Also, what is the condenser?

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I bought this very nice low mileage 1949 Dodge Coronet that would start, run for a while and then die out. I could not figure out what the heck was going on and I ended up selling it. Turns out, the coil was heating up and shorting out.

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Guest 39DodgeD11

but after it cooled down it would restart right?

this hasnt restarted since probably monday or tuesday

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Zach, I think you stated you have a digital Volt/Ohm meter? Get out the instructions and find how to check voltage. You need to know if there is any or why there isn't. Don't just guess at parts, that gets expensive. If you are unsure what a condensor does or is you need a very basic repair manual, like a Motor's manual from Ebay. Or check the Dyke's manual that is online, they have excellant explanations of what is and does. The manual doesn't have to be specific for your year, it just has to include points ignition, not electronic.

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Guest 39DodgeD11

yeah i have a Fluke 78 Automotive Meter....i know how to check voltage, ohms, etc. i just wasn't sure how to on the D11.

Regardless, i cleaned up the cap and rotor contacts today, checked the pigtail connectors (those lil screws are a BEAR CAT to get on and off without dropping and searching for 10 min. straight) All pigtail connectors came out with some sort of continuity so they're all good.

Got back in the car and it fired up for me. Not sure what i did to make it run, all i did was clean barely corroded cap and rotor parts and check pigtail connectors.

Regardless, it runs so it got a NICE bath today and im waiting on some Meguiars products to really clean it up with as the paint needs a LOT of attention!!

So thats for the hints/suggestions on what to check guys, something i did you guys told me about got it to fire again and thats all i care about.

Thanks again!

Zach

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These distributers are easier to work on on the bench.

You can usually take the plate out to replace the points ect. if that is easier for you. If I remember correctly the screws that hold the cap clips will let the plate free.

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Guest 39DodgeD11

ok thanks guys....still runs as of tonight, so im not sure what would have caused that glitch...or what i did that fixed it!

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