Engine quite while driving car at 55 mph, cranks but won't start

[Guest 89 red reatta]

I was having a great day yesterday driving my reatta, here in Orange County NY, when all of a sudden my rpms fell from ruffly somewhere between 2500-3000 to Zero. No spit and sputter just died. The service engine soon light came on the computer yelled at me and all my service light came on to . Luckly I was in an area where I could get off the road. I had a friend tow me in to the shop down the road where the car still sits right now.

THe engine cranks but doesn't turn over. They mechanic checked for spark and discovered none at all. He then plugged a test light in to the main line that feeds the coils and that too had no juice. So he said it looks like a crank shaft sensor went. So they ordered the part and today at 330 eastern standard time when I went to check on the progress of the car, they still weren't any closer to resolving the problem.

Does anyone think they know why my car died on me while I was driving and since wont start?

[Guest Brad Gales]

My 88 recently did the same thing. No spark, but had fuel pressure. I replaced the ignition control module and the coil, which resolved the problem.

[2seater]

Did they actually install the new crank sensor and still have no spark? More common for the crank sensor failure to be a no start condition than to quit while driving, but it is certainly possible. Coil or ignition module failure usually gives some warning, such as rough running, since it is rare to lose all three coils at the same time. Check for damage to the crank sensor and coil pack harness that runs across the front of the engine. The initial spark is to start the car is generated through the crank sensor and ICM so if no spark, that is the place to start.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

Well, I just got her back home from the shop.I had the car trailered back home. The shop installed the new sensor and showed me the old one. It looks like over the years of being slightly miss aligned may have been what (as they claim) made it touch the flywheel ever so much to cause it to go bad. .... but here's the kicker. They were following proceedure doing there percribed steps in order of what their code machine told them to do. It very well could have still been good. But the ignition module itself (i think independantly) may have went. Or maybe they went hand in hand. I am going to order up a new module, unless anyone knows how I can score one for cheaper.

A second thought while I was there and they had the car up on the lift still is...and I am truely saddenend to say this. The car was sitting in an outside garage that had a gravel floor for a few years not being run. And the car is (as 20 years will do) showing signs of rust. I had and still have every intention of sanding the underside down and making the frame look like nothing happened but they said the back of the frame was rotting out. (where the rear suspension sits). so the question is: Is there anything that can be done to stop progress and hide what damage already occured, so I can get her to pass NY inspections, and is there such a thing as repairing a uniframe car once the damage is done. Cuzz now that I've had her back up and driving for two weeks now (until yesterday of course, I got the fever to drive the car,...not put her down.

[Ronnie]

If your car has a lot of rust in the rear I would highly suggest that you check the cradle mounts in the front of the car before doing any repairs. These cars are prone to rust in the area where the cradle, holding the drivetrain, is bolted. Some have completely fell out which is very dangerous. The front or rear frame having rusted away could end the life of the car if it is falling apart.

Info about the ignition module can be found here.

[DAVES89]

My relay fell against the manifold causing a no run. Check the relays to be sure they do not come near touching the manifold. [Relays are on the fire wall]. I also agree that in general it is the ignition control module.

A replacement coil pack and Ignition Control Module [iCM]can be had rather cheaply at any salvage yard.

This would be a good time to do the Padgett upgrade. Ask for a coli pack/ICM for a 1992 Pontiac Transport with the 3800 motor. You will get the more reliable Delco. The 1992 Pontiac Transport setup matches up all the way up to the early 2000 cars. [i just got one for a mid '90's Buick] You just say you have the Transport to ensure that you get the Delco.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

that's the thing that is a bit odd. the rust is present mostly in the rear of car. the front underside of car including engine area isn't as bad. maybe some slight surface rust but otherwise fine. I'll take pics and post them later.

I'll do the junkyard spree this afternoon. too. I be sure to let ya know my findings.

P.S. Is anyone from ny. As rare as these cars are there are 4 of them right here in Orange county NY, not including mine. two red one blue and one white, all coupes.

[Guest ekvh]

Dave's 89: What do you have to pay for the coil and module at a junk yard there? I found a new set with module for $110. I might go with that. I am not having noticeable trouble with the Magnavox, but it sounds like it is prudent to do.

[DAVES89]

I just bought one for the '89 black/gray. Cost $20.00. Haven't put it in yet...

Has '89 red reatta got his car running or is the rust the bigger issue?

[Guest Greg Ross]

DED engine. Years ago I went thru all that trouble shooting and ended up replacing the ECM.

If you've got serious wasteage in the rear the replacing the rear sub-frame is a practical option if the rest of the car is in good shape. The Unobody was exceedingly well primed and painted. Most likely it will be the independent sub-frame that has issues.

Here's a link to a photo of mine when I did the rebuild;

http://img.villagephotos.com/imageview.aspx?i=18654719

[Guest 89 red reatta]

Ok two things. 1 I got the new module and am going to install it tomorrow. 2 I got intouch with a guy who does custom car work and he told me to send him pics if the frame and stuff, so I did, and i sent them to him. I don't know how to upload pics in forum. Does anyone know how. Cuz then I can show everyone here too.

By the way Greg ross great photo. I want your exhaust set up, that's not original right? And you custom tranmissioned the 5 speed. Excellent. My subaru impreza is a 5 speed so I get my manual kicks from that.

[Ronnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know how to upload pics in forum. Does anyone know how. Cuz then I can show everyone here too. </div></div>Click on FAQ in the menu bar above. Read the instructions for adding attachments.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ekvh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dave's 89: What do you have to pay for the coil and module at a junk yard there? I found a new set with module for $110. I might go with that. I am not having noticeable trouble with the Magnavox, but it sounds like it is prudent to do. </div></div>

Well, called up a place that inventorys all their parts and they c&H salvage yard in campbell hall, NY, and they looked it up in there computer and sure as a fiddle they had 1 and I quote "1" in their inventory. So they pulled it for me and I have it. brand new is 118.00 plus 8.25% NY sales tax. So just above what you paid.

The exciting news is that on wednesday/thursday I had a nightmare of a time with what the machanics said, but as of today I've had 3 small but needed victorys in my reatta delema's.

1. the ignition module

2. the custom car frame repair upon seeing the photo's clearifying that it will be fixed.

3. Brand new gas tank ordered and coming shortly from advanced auto.

current needs include, new front and rear suspension bushings and fuel lines. So how about that anyone have a clue on what to do about those i'm all ears. I am a hands-on guy, but since I didn't have a bubble flair to properly do the right technique on the brake lines I rerun, I had no choice but to use a compression fitting to hold the lines in place. So I need to take the vehicle to a guy who owns all the fun mechanics equipment to properly do the job. (The machanic at the shop went up one side of me and down the other for using the compression fittings).

[padgett]

Well, the Harbor Freight habit is cheaper than the Snap On habit (but you get what you pay for).

"Coil Pack" at the UPullIt is $21.99 but occasionally they have a 2 for 1 weekend. Trouble with new parts is that you do not get the base plate or the hardware (six long screws, three funny screws, three nuts).

[Guest Greg Ross]

Not certain when the change took place, I'm going to say 1990? The Tank unit and Fuel Lines went to quick connect ends. I swaped in a 1990 southern Tank and reused the Tank Sender unit that came with it. Purchased a new a set of lines (plastic) for, I'll say a '91 or '92 Riveria that matched the quick connect fittings on the '90 Tank. I was re-plumbing the front of the system to connect to the S/C Engine and had high pressure flex lines fabricated to suit my installation. So not quite sure what you'd be looking at to match up to a stock '90 engine, say vs an '89. Might be possible to scavenge a mix of '90 fuel rail parts to allow the plastic to fit both ends? Just a suggestiion!

The plastic was simple to install following the same route where the old steel lines came off. The Riv is supposed to be 6" longer meaning the line harness should be stretched the same amount. There was no issue with installing the longer lines? Fuel Filter ends up right under the Drivers' feet.

[padgett]

My July 90 'vert has the plastic lines.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

anyone interested in snapping a pic of the 1990's plastic lines. I can show them to parts guy at napa and see what he comes up with. For the most part the lines don't do much twisting and bending right? they pretty much follow a straight line from the front of the car to the tank, so really its just a matter of getting your hands on some fuel rails in general???. I mean I could splice them in at a juntion point, right?.

[Ronnie]

Your mechanic has already gave you a tongue lashing for splicing lines in a dangerous fashion on the brakes. Sounds like you are going to be inline for another one when you start splicing fuel lines.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

well, what would the recommendation be then. I have a new tank with sending unit in route to me now. I could just run plastic lines line they said the 90's came with, but the fuel rails themselves, I just need to know what the fitting sizes are. and I can get steel fuel rails from the napa store.

oh by the way, replaced the ignition module and car started up like a brand new vehicle hot off the line. So yet another small victory in the reatta saga, of which I am volunterally stepping myself into.

So Tonight having one the ignition module victory, I was feeling good, and took it to the weekly car show in my hometown. I don't stand a chance against the big time muscle cars but they accept me just the same. Don't win any trophies though. Don't have the muscle for it. But good conversation.

[Guest Greg Ross]

"Fuel Rail" is the tubing assembly on top of the engine that feeds each Injector. Junction is where the pressure regulator sits in a small cylindrical part and there are two lines connected. One is the Fuel Supply (High Pressure) the other is the fuel return (to the tank) third line under the car running forward from the tank goes to the charcoal filter/ evap container (Fuel Fumes from the tank)

Napa I don't believe is going to be able to help you with a Fuel Line Harness for your '89.

Suggest you seek some professional(mechanics') advise about installing the replacement fuel lines. And follow the advise.

[Vincent Vega]

Dorman makes a kit for fuel line repairs. Very easy to splice in. You just need a tubing cutter. I was very glad I invested in an ISO flaring tool. Paid for itself quickly with three late 80's GM cars. I buy the tubing, bend and flare it myself. My parts store guy will also flare tubing for me. He has a flaring kit that will make any type of flare.

[padgett]

I have never heard of a fuel rail going bad (doesn't mean it doesn't happen, just never heard of it.

This is a case where you might go to a recucling center and grab an entire intake manifold with fuel rails, injectors, pressure regulator, and harness stub.

[Guest 89 red reatta]

sorry to be so nieve on the what I was calling it. The part or the line where it sits under the car, is the part I'm replacing, it comes off the tank and gets snaked down to the underchasis and up to the front of the car, so the part i need to replace is the part that is under side, if its all connected as one piece and can't abe sliced in, then I need to get a whole new part, but I'm not doing it. I'm having a professional do the tank and lines and brake lines over the proper way. So I can't be responsable for doing something wrong again.

[padgett]

That is usually just called the "fuel line" and complete replacement (I would also strongly suggest replacing any rubber lines) is going to require dropping the fuel tank (no big, draining the fuel is the hardest part).