Jump to content

Chugging/Hesitation


Guest wayne2reattas

Recommended Posts

Guest wayne2reattas

Hello everyone,

I put this post up quite awhile ago! I have just this past week tried to find the original problem. The car chugs/hesitates until I am over 35 mph. Yesterday I did the following:

1.) Switched MAF with a known good one

2.) Checked fuel pressure ( it was fine)

3.) Replaced the TPS with a new one adjusted to .40

4.) Replaced the PCV

5.) Checked all wires for spark

6.) Pulled and checked all plugs

7.) Cleaned IAC (which had been recently put in) made sure it was adjusted correctly.

Still have the same issues. On acceleration it chugs/hesitates until I am over 35???

Need some help what to do next?

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest wayne2reattas

There is nothing oozing from the coil pack. I replaced the plugs and wires about 10,000 miles ago. I just read a post with someone having same type of issues. It was also recommended to replace coil pack. I put mine on about the same time I replaced plugs & wires. I am going to switch coil packs with my other Reatta on Wednesday and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the response!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

replace your 02 sensor. It does not always sen a signal as being bad. I recently had a simular issue and went through many other checks and replacements, before replaceing the 02. (I honestly believe a high consontrate of seafoam in the fuel caused my issue. (one can in like 3 gallons, just wanted to really clean the fuel system)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest wayne2reattas

The car seems to run fine when its cold. But once the temp gets over 104 the problem seems to start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had one that seemed to be sending the correct signal and the computer never through a cold. Heck even watching it while in diagnostic mode it was showing the correct readings. So they can go bad and not throw a code, granted it is nott too common from what I have seen. I had tried everything else and the 02 was around a month old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest wayne2reattas

Thanks.... Going to give it a try Tuesday night. On the way home from work tonight it was really bad when I would accelerate between 55 and 60. Hope this is the problem! Running out of patience and money!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hope it works, what you are describing is a classic secondary ignition problem and the speed (above 45 mph) points to the coils.

See particularly step 3 (coil check) in the diagnostic chart C-4f-2 on page 6E3-C4-15 of the 89 FSM. All three coils should be close between 10k-13k ohms.

Cost is zero other than some time. If you still have might also check the coilpack you replaced.

BTW this will usually show up first in a low rpm/moderate load/lean (closed loop) condition. When cold you are running open loop and the mixture is richer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest wayne2reattas

Car is finally fixed--- not sure now what the problem was... I pulled off a plug wire to put the O2 sensor in. After I put the sensor in I saw that the boot came off the plug wire. then I noticed the plug wire was burnt. So I fixed the plug wire and put it back on. The car runs GREAT again. Now I am wondering -- was it the O2 sensor or the plug wire?

Also as Padgett advised I checked the ohms at the coil. They are reading 14k to 14.3k. I think the coil pack is still under warranty. Do you think I should take it back? I want to thank EVERYONE for all the responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might just be the calibration on your meter, is not far out, most common is either low (shorted coils) or an open, would not worry about 7.5% high. OTOH I do not care for the Magnavoxes but then I have a ready supply of Delcos so I'd take it back and put the money toward a Delco.

ps by "BLM" I meant Block Learn Mode. The ECM tunes itself as you drive, first with the "Fuel Integrator" (ED19) for short term changes, and if the change stays for a long time, the BLM ((ED20) changes. Both begin at 128 and will calibrate rich (higher) or lean (lower) in 500 rpm "blocks" for a particular "Load Value" (LV8) which is a mixture of TPS, MAF, MAT, and a few other things. You have to read at your common cruising speed on a level road so you are seeing the right block.

If the O2 sensor drifts, it will show up in these two correction values. My experience is a tad rich (132-134) does not mean much but then I never like to run too lean: power and mpg are liable to increase slightly right up to when a piston burns a hole.

GNs at the drags will often pull the battery to clear out the tables and make their runs at a flat 128/128. Some say it helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...