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-lock brake warning message


Guest Falconman

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Guest imported_Falconman

I have an 89 and over the past couple of weeks when starting up, I have gotten a message on the CRT "anti-lock brakes/low pressure/service check required". I have read the related posts, did the 7 step brake test and assume its the accumulator??? I can pass along the test results if helpful. The car has 138k miles (35k in past 11 yrs and approximately 5k the past 5-6 yrs. I have owned it since 97 and have all(?) service records from previous owner and feel positive the accumulator has never been replaced. Is that where I start (accumulator) or are there other things to consider. Thanks for any /all input and help.

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The Anti-Lock light is not as scary as the Red BRAKE light but it should not be lit. Most likely it is one of the wheel sensors. Could be damaged, a bad or dirty connector.

You can disconnect the sensors one at a time and check the continuity through the coil to verify that they are not bad. Spray each connector with contact cleaner.

It could also be the anti-lock solenoid unit...nothing can be fixed there, it must be replaced....however thay seldom go bad. Try unpluging the unit, spray with contact cleaner and replug.

Let us know what you find.

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"Low pressure" is the result of *either* the low pressure or the fluid level switch being open (EBCM pins 9 and 10 should make a loop). Diagnosis requires a DVM or jumpers to find out which is open and then you can determine why.

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Guest imported_Falconman

Thanks Ronnie and Barney. Barney, both the red and yellow lights on the instrument panel go off in about 30-40 seconds after letting the system go thru the start up "system checks". This seemed about right but its the CRT msg that I've gotten. Doing the brake test I was not sure what the term "till pedal gets hard". Test 1 seemed not bad, took 7 pumps for both lights to go off. Test 3, both lights out after 12 seconds. Test 4 about 20 seconds till pump stopped running. Test 5 only 1 pump of pedal till pump started running, test 6 fluid was 3/4 inch at least below full line. On test 7, I can hear the audible sound but don't notice push back. This is long but wanted to give as much info as possible. Not sure how to describe, but for a while the pedal has just not seemed normal - sort of like when it gets to bottom of travel its like a hard touch. Thanks.

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If it takes longer than 50 seconds for the yellow light to go off you will get the error message you describe. Do you ever get the error message when the car has only been sitting a short period of time? Does the car stop the way it should without the red or yellow light coming on?

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Guest imported_Falconman

Ronnie, just checked, car has been setting for 2-3 hours. Turned key to run position and both red and yellow went out in about 15 seconds, pump stopped after another 10 seconds--no msg on CRT.

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As I remember, it was $189.00. I dealt with two free standing Buick Dealers, one whose owner had two Reattae, and another who was familiar with the car. Look for grey hair amongst the mechanics and you're probably OK.

Tom T.

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It is like replacing an oil filter just from the other side and needing to remove the oil first.

BTW GMPartdirect has gone from expensive shipping to absurd. Just checked and price is now $117 but they add <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">$40</span></span> shipping & handling. Each (two is $80 shipping). This is sad.

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Guest CL_Reatta

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is like replacing an oil filter just from the other side and needing to remove the oil first.

BTW GMPartdirect has gone from expensive shipping to absurd. Just checked and price is now $117 but they add <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">$40</span></span> shipping & handling. Each (two is $80 shipping). This is sad. </div></div>

ARE YOU FOR REAL?

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Guest jamhudson

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is like replacing an oil filter just from the other side and needing to remove the oil first.

BTW GMPartdirect has gone from expensive shipping to absurd. Just checked and price is now $117 but they add <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">$40</span></span> shipping & handling. Each (two is $80 shipping). This is sad. </div></div>

I'm 80 miles from them, wonder what they would get at the parts counter? I got mine last Aug. for $153 from my dealer who I have been a wholesale customer for 48 years. From what I have learned over the years dealer cost is about $75.

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Well there are spares that are probably fine used (like an ECM) and spares that wear out (like the accumulator).

Personally I like the idea of ABS and while it was available on a lot of GM cars in the 87-90 era, it was standard equipment on only two and an e$pen$ive option on the rest.

Born when diesels were coming (along with the non-ABS PowerMaster which uses a similar but much lower pressure accumulator), the Olds 350 killed that.

Replacement with a later ABS is possible but might as well replace the entire powertrain while at it. Much easier and more common is just to add another rear brake line and go to the conventional system used in the Riviera.

Keep in mind that when the Reatta does become a "collectible", originality <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">even and sometimes particularly when the original did not work well</span></span> will become paramount.

Somehow I doubt that a NOS accumulator will ever drop in value and suspect that a few here may even have more than one spare.

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