Guest imported_Thriller Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Hello all. I bought a bunch of stuff from a fellow near Charleston, SC. To save on shipping, I'm hoping to get him to remove the wheels from the axle and rear end...this will save on size and weight so that I can afford to bring it up here.I understand there is some sort of a puller required, but as I've never played with the wheels on my '29, I don't really have details. I'm sure I've seen something about it before, but I can't locate those details. Any help, such as a description of technique or details on the nature of the required puller, would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50jetback Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Derek,I had a ring made, the internal measurement the same as the hubcap and with the same thread. The external measurement should be enough to give you a 1/2" lip when the ring is screwed on ( just as you would screw on the hubcap ).With the ring screwed on you can then use a modern 3 arm puller on the end of the axle with the arms secured behind the ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Theere are at least four vintage wheel pullers on ebay right now. All you need to know is the thread size of the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Do a search or look up above in "Technical". There is an active thread there right now. It save us from having to type the same thing over and over and over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Thriller, you need to know the size of the threads on the hub. The puller would be the same as the hub cap threads. Outside diameter of the threaded part of the hub + threads per inch would give you your thread size.I do know that Buick used 3 and 3/8ths by 20 threads to the inch for quite a few years. This size is very hard to come by. Tons are on the market for Model T Fords but they do not fit a Buick. Check yours and see what size it is. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Are they wire or wood spokes? Wire wheels should come off easily with just a lug wrench. Artillery wheels require either the specific sized hub puller (previously described) to match the hub cap thread, or a clamp that fits around the narrow neck of the wheel to facilitate the use of a standard pully puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I naturally assumed they were wood spoked wheels because you do not remove wire spoked wheels from an axle. You remove them from a hub (which remains fixed to the axle). One exception would be some Packards and other vehicles in that class that have wood wheels that mount the same way as steel wheels (with lug bolts). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Derek, you need a puller as described by others. 1929 series 116 are 16 threads per inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Thriller Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Thanks gang. I don't know what series car this is from, but it is a set of wooden wheels...appear to be artillery wheels Now if it comes to it, these are detachable rims, correct? Worst case then I could get him to pull the rims off and I don't leave everything behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Derek which parts do you want , the wheels or the rear axle assembly ?Just looking at the hub it would seem that it's from a 116 series. If it is then it's no good to you as your car is a Master not Standard and nothing is interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jules greenway Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 DerekAttached pics of puller which we have made up to remove rear hubs on the 8-90. The advantage of this design is that, having tightened the screw, you can give it a really good clout with a big hammer! (do you say "clout" over there?) you can't do this with a hydraulic puller. Safety tip is have the hub nut in place so hub/wheel does not attack you!Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Thriller Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Ken - I was after the wheels just thinking that I could use them to hold up the car while restoring the originals. Sigh.Jules - even though we are part of the Commonwealth, I fear we Canadians speak more like the Americans, so I wouldn't have used the word clout there, but I certainly get the picture. What you have had made up is pretty much what I was thinking of getting made - I have a spare hub cap that I could take to a machinist to get the threads and diameter so I could have something similar made.Thanks for everyone's help. I've learned a lot. Unless the seller has something that will work or can fabricate something, I guess I won't get this stuff as part of the lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Derek, A photo of the fabricated puller for my 13 Buick is below. It has a mechanism to tighten the puller on the hub before pulling. This prevents pulling the puller off the fine threads of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42crazy Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Thriller, I just removed the axles from my '30, and you could use the same system. I took a piece of 8 inch pipe, stood it up under a 20 ton press, stuck the axle and wheel on top of it, axle down inside the pipe, and pressed down on the end of the axle. Be sure to leave the nut on the axle, just loosen it up a bit. I had to apply a bit of heat, but not enough to even change the color of the metal hub, and when it came out, it popped like a shotgun, scared the heck out of me, but, it worked. The 8 inch pipe and spacers etc. need to be longer than the axle of course. The reason for the 8 inch pipe, it needs to be big enough to clear the nuts on the inside of the brake drum, but, you may be able to find a pipe that fits inside the nut circle. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Don't forget to smear some never seize, kopr coat or similar over the axle taper, key and inside hub on re-assembly. It helps getting the wheel off again next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 I have been playing with tapered axles and hubs for 55 years now and I would absolutely never ever put anything on an axle or in a hub. The pieces should be put together steel to steel.I have at least 40 manuals at the moment and not a single one of them suggests any coating of any kind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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