Brakes cause car to pull

[BrentS]

Upon a rather quick brake application, the car initially jerks to the left. This pulling only lasts about a half second, and then the braking appears to be even. It also seems to brake evenly with normal/smoothe brake applications. I had the dealer flush/bleed brake system a few months back, but it really didn't help any.

Any suggestions? I plan to bring it in to a mechanic, but I don't want to start throwing money at parts I don't need.

How do they determing the root cause (caliper, master cylinder, valve block, etc.)?

[padgett]

I would start with the piston in the opposite (if it pulls right, check the left) caliper.

[Jim]

I have had a lot of experience with the Teves system and I hate to say it but you have a dangerous situation and the only solution is to replace the whole system on the firewall. The problems with the Teves is if the fluid is not changed about every three years moisture will corrode the valves in the valve body of the unit. I have experienced this same condition on my wifes car and replaced the whole unit.

Because of this same corrosion many folks have reported in emergency stops like yours, they will have a hard pedal and no brakes. I bought a car in NJ a few years ago because the owner had this problem and totaled his car.

My wifes also jerked to the left. This is extremely dangerous because if you have to stop fast you will swerve into oncoming traffic.

I have sold lots of ABS's and one of the tests I do and recommend to everyone is to go out on the road with no one around and at about 20 MPH hit the brakes hard and make sure the car stops straight ahead and not pull to one side or the other.

Since yours pulls for only a second and then is OK it might be a caliper or ?????????? but I would be very careful. All of the ones I have had experience with continued to pull or have no brakes in the panic stop situation.

That having been said, just last night I came home with another parts car and the ABS is already been spoken for. I do not have any others available at this time.

[Guest steakneggs]

I would check the easy/inexpensive stuff first, like a sticking caliper or constricted hose. But both of these issues usually result in the brake on that side not releasing fully after application. That does not sound like your problem. If it is the Teves, the valve block portion can be replaced fairly easily (compared to replacing the whole thing). I would disconnect the elec plug from the valve block and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have the choice of fixing it or driving a non-ABS (fair weather only) Reatta. Steak

[Ronnie]

Don't overlook the simple things like brake fluid leaking onto one of the pads and causing the brake to grab.

[BrentS]

Thanks for the responses.

FYI: This has been like this for around a year, and it seems to be slowly getting worse, if at all.

Being that it's jerking to the left without any anti-lock brake system engaging, can it still be related to the "valve block" or teves system??? The troubleshoot chart doesn't mention those as possible culprits. Or, maybe I'm being hopeful that it's either a caliper or restriction issue.

Plus the fact that it only jerks for a fraction of a second, and then seems to brake straight, it seems like there is either a delay for the pressure to get to the right caliper, OR the right caliper doesn't start braking as fast as the left (sticking?).

[Roadster90]

Do inspect the easy stuff first as Ronnie suggests, but I believe Mr. Finn ("Jim" above) probably has the correct diagnosis. There is also a TSB on this condition....possibly find it at Reatt.net

[BrentS]

Ok thanks.

The TSB seems to specify the problem relating to the valve block as intermittent; which is definitely not my problem. Mine is consistent, so I remain hopeful. The TSB fix is to replace the valve block, anyway, so that might be a worse case for my condition.

TSB Title: INTERMITTENT PULL WITH A HARD BRAKE APPLY DURING NON-ABS STOP ON ABS EQUIPPED

[padgett]

I agree, this sounds more like something that can happen on any braking system, not just abs and would look at the caliper/hose first. Might just try a good bleed as air in the side away from the pull could act this way also.

[BrentS]

Well, this issue turned out to be a bad left caliper. The mechanic said the left one was not releasing properly, and subsequantly grabbed before the right one.

I replaced both calipers, hoses, brake pads, and cut the rotors.....car brakes perfectly now.

Thanks for the help!

[Guest Drake]

Brent, Thanks for the update, and glad to hear you got it straightend out. Nothing better than Good Brakes.

[Guest imported_Havron The Great]

I have had 2 of these cars and the 1990 I have now just gave me a prob. I have been forced to drive it for a bit in the cold weather, and that jerking problem is way worse in the cold. But now the power brakes have went out all together! When on ice I can still hear some motor turning and make that ABS clicking sound that I have heard before, but now does not stop the car. Any ideas what has happened to my power brakes and makes my pedel feel like im going to press myself into the trunk?

jhavron@hotmail.com

[padgett]

You're going to press yourself or the pedal will do it for you ? Rock hard (no give atol) could be a stuck main valve and that is an ABS issue. Do not drive until fixed.