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charging battery ?


327

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Haven't ever done this believe it or not. Friend has a 34 Super Eight with battery under seat that needs charging. Do we need to disconnect it before charging? Give me the simple steps as I'm simple minded.

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By disconnect, do you mean remove the cables? You don't remove them on your modern car when you jump or charge, and there is no reason to do in this car. You can either (1) remove the battery cover under the seat and put the charger clips on the appropriate terminals, or (2) you can just open the hood and put the positive charger clip on a head bolt or other suitable ground and the negative on the battery cable end at the starter motor (assuming the battery is correctly installed with the (+) terminal to ground), and if there is a battery disconnect switch in between, you'll have to turn it on.

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No need to disconnect the battery if there is a battery cut-off switch. If not, then: one should really be installed, and you should disconnect the non-ground cable (probably the negative cable, if the electrical system is of original design).

What kind of battery? Is it maintenance free or the kind with removable caps? Has the car been converted to 12V, or is it still 6V.

Procedure if a standard 6V wet-cell battery:

If the battery is the kind with removable caps, then the caps should be removed and the fluid level checked. If low, add distilled water until the level reaches the bottom of the tube leading from the caps. This occurs when a meniscus forms.

Caps should then be loosely put back on to allow easy off-gassing during charging.

Then connect the positive lead from the charger to the positive terminal of the battery, and repeat for the negative terminal and lead. Then plug in the charger. When the charge rate drops to less than 2 amps, the battery is charged. Check the fluid level again and refill if necessary. Put the caps back on, reconnect the battery, and off you go.

Remember, hydrogen gas is emitted during charging. No smoking, don't charge near something that sparks (like an electric motor) and charge in a well-ventilated area. I always keep the doors open on the car when I am charging a battery.

If it is a maintenance free battery, like an optima, then you skip the water and caps bit.

I think that is about it.

Tom

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We got it hooked up to charge and when we plugged the charger in the needle read like it was totally empty. So it appeared to be charging but then the charger started cycling on and off about every 5-10 seconds. Is this normal? The charger is set on the correct 6 volt setting and is basically brand new. Also, the key in the ignition switch has like 3 spots it can be turned to. It will go straight up, then one click to the right, then one more click to the right. Which one of those is off? I think we might have left the dang key on and didn't know it for awhile.

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<span style="font-style: italic"> you can just open the hood and put the positive charger clip on a head bolt or other suitable ground and the negative on the battery cable end at the starter motor (assuming the battery is correctly installed with the (+) terminal to ground),</span>

You know, I've never thought of that -- that's a good idea. (I've ended up driving my Packard at night relatively often, and the Halogen headlight bulbs that were put in to increase visibility at night draw a ton of power and tend to drain the battery over time. So this will be pretty helpful.)

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 327</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We got it hooked up to charge and when we plugged the charger in the needle read like it was totally empty. So it appeared to be charging but then the charger started cycling on and off about every 5-10 seconds. Is this normal? The charger is set on the correct 6 volt setting and is basically brand new. Also, the key in the ignition switch has like 3 spots it can be turned to. It will go straight up, then one click to the right, then one more click to the right. Which one of those is off? I think we might have left the dang key on and didn't know it for awhile. </div></div>

I have found that the chargers need a minimum voltage before they will charge otherwise you will get that cycling that you discribed. This is just my personal experience trying to charge deeply discharged batteries.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic"> you can just open the hood and put the positive charger clip on a head bolt or other suitable ground and the negative on the battery cable end at the starter motor (assuming the battery is correctly installed with the (+) terminal to ground),</span>

You know, I've never thought of that -- that's a good idea. (I've ended up driving my Packard at night relatively often, and the Halogen headlight bulbs that were put in to increase visibility at night draw a ton of power and tend to drain the battery over time. So this will be pretty helpful.)</div></div>

This assumes your willing to let your car charge with the battery disconnect switch in the on position. This makes me nervous, with wooden chassis and constant current through accessory wires (like courtesy lights and lighters). I would be especially nervous with something like a 34 Packard. The fire hazard may be small, but it is not statistically small.

Leaving the ignition on while charging can do damage to your ignition system. One way to ensure that this can't happen is to disconnect the negative battery cable (on a positive ground car like the 34).

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I like to check the electrolite (water) levels in a car's battery before charging, then do as Owen Dyneto recommends. If the car is going to catch on fire under these circumstances that means it will also catch fire while you are driving it. With the ignition key in the off position and no other accessories hooked up you should be just fine. Old cars are funny, some real "improving" has been done to the electrical systems of some cars, watch out for accessories that wire right to the battery (I have seen it done, no fusing) and other non-stock monkey work.

I really, really like the Cole-Hersee shut off switches for pre-war cars, We bought 'em by the dozens and installed them in many cars.

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Check the electrolite in the battery but do not over fill. If the plates are dry put in enough water to just cover the plates. The level will come up as the battery charges up.

Leave the caps loose while charging so the hydrogen gas can escape. Do not have any spark or open flame nearby when charging.

Make sure you have the charger on the right way round and that everything is turned off.

If you can't be sure everything is off, take one cable off the battery and connect the charger direct to the battery.

If the charger is adjustable set it to its lowest setting, less than 5 amps. 2 amps or less if possible. A low charge rate will save an old battery. Too fast a charge will kill a battery dead.

It may take a day or more to charge a 6 volt battery at a low rate if it is badly discharged but do not increase the charge rate until the battery is near full charge.

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Tom, on the subject of which battery cable to remove, or if removing both, which one to remove first, you might want to give some thought to something vividly demonstrated to me years back by an old time autoelectric mechanic.

Assuming a positive ground system, if you first decide to remove the (-) cable and while loosening the terminal your metal wrench should touch the fender, battery hold down, seat frame, metal floor board or anything else which is grounded, you'll have an instant red-hot dead short with more excitement than any of us need. If your wrench end should touch a metal finger ring which then touches ground, the total amp capacity of the battery will nearly instantly melt your gold ring and your finger inside it.

Be safe, disconnect the positive or ground cable first, and work so you can't accidently come into contact with the negative terminal with the metal wrench.

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Owen,

You are correct, and that is what I meant to say. For some reason, I would say positive ground, and then negative cable instead of ground cable. REMOVE THE CABLE THAT DOESN'T HAVE ANY INSULATION ON IT. Oh, and use tools that have rubber protective handles on them and be careful.

That was the advice given to me by my father. That is what I should stick to.

Thank you for your correction.

Tom

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It was driven last Wednesday and parked in the garage and the key was not turned all the way back toward the drivers side in the straight up position. It was only turned off half way and left that way overnight and I guess drained the battery.

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Guest jjohnb

I apologize if this has already been covered or is off topic but I have been wondering if I am doing things the hard way. I have a '29 626 and after each drive I disconnect both battery cables and attach the trickle charger directly to the battery. Even though the car has a battery box and I don't have to go under the front seat, it is still a chore after each drive and before the next. I have thought about attaching the trickle charger to the battery without disconnecting the cables but am afraid I might fry some of the electrical components light the coil, should I be concerned about this? I also considered adding a shut-off switch but all the articles I have read about 6V systems say to ensure your have large enough battery cables (0 or 00 gauge). All the shut-off switches I have seen appear to be a small gauge, wouldn't that be the point of most resistance and limit the flow of amps when I'm trying to start the car? Thanks for any insight you guys may be able to offer.

Just one additional note, I don't use a 6v optima battery in the battery box since it is to modern looking but I just bought one as a back-up to keep under the driver's seat for emergencies (it is a dry battery so no acid leaks to worry about). I thought I would pass this information along to you. Advanced Auto gives discounts to car club members. They reduced the price on the Optima 6V battery to $150 since that is what some of the internet websites sell it for. If you show your local Advanced Auto store one of your club memberships they will extend you a discount or possibly even match prices for you.

John

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First of all, you should absolutely have a battery disconnect switch, and NOT one of those cheesy little dingbats that connects to the battery terminal; they can't handle the amperage that a 6 volt system needs. Buy a good high-capacity rotary cutoff like the Cole-Hersee which is routinely available from many, many sources and can take the larger 0 or 00 gauge cables needed. My preference is always to put the cutout on the ground cable.

Secondly, your ignition coil is only energized when the ignition switch is on, so that should not be a concern.

How convenient to have the external battery box, just remove the battery box cover, clip your charger onto the correct terminals, make sure the caps are loose or that the vents aren't plugged, check the electrolyte level, and plug it in.

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Guest imported_Speedster

I put a trickle-charger in the battery box along with battery, in all my cars, and leave them there. I run the power plug external to box, so I can charge it without removing the cover. I route the power cord over under runningboard and clamp it in place, for easy access.

There is No need to disconnect the battery cables when using a trickle-charger. Disconnect is maybe needed Only when using a very High-current type charger, as a safty factor. And with a cut-out switch, there's definitely No need to disconnect battery cables.

I also mount a quality cut-out switch in all my cars. That way there's no posibility of the battery being discharged accidently by switches being left on or shorts in system.

Here are 3 types of switches. I usually use the all-metal non-locking type, since it's more durable, but the locking type, with removable key, also acts as an anti-theft device. See Link:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/BATTERY-MASTER-CUTOFF-SWITCHES/GP_2006124_N_111+10201+600000926_10101.jcw

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jjohnb</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have a '29 626 and after each drive I disconnect both battery cables and attach the trickle charger directly to the battery.John </div></div> That is what I do. Since my battery is pretty accessible.

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Well, the battery charged for 5 hours and the needle never moved from 0% so we are assuming it's a goner. We'll just buy another one tomorrow. Any recommendations on batteries besides Optimas? It's a 34 Super Eight.

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I paid $88 for the NAPA 7210 about 3 years ago, that was a wholesale price, and no doubt is much higher now. Do a web search on lead-acid batteries or automotive batteries, there are quite a few sources, Deka, Douglas (just bought out by someone), NAPA, etc. But you probably will have to order one from a distributor.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes, Optimas are Great. They cost a little more but they last twice as long. The 6.volt ones are more powerful than most 6.v batteries and are so small and light, you can put 2 of them in a battery box and have one for a backup, if you accidently discharge the other.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Don't try to connect the 2 batteries in Parallel tho! smirk.gif

One will discharge thru the other, if you let them sit for a long time without recharging them.

You can connect one side of them permanently together but not both + and -.

So keeping both charged can be a problem. Really need 2 trickle-charges in the battery box Also, which gets to be a tight fit, unless the chargers are Very small. I found some that are about the size of a pack of cigarettes.

I had my 626 setup that way, with 2 Optimas, until I needed the second battery and charger in another car, so pulled it out.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't try to connect the 2 batteries in Parallel tho! smirk.gif

One will discharge thru the other, if you let them sit for a long time without recharging them.

You can connect one side of them permanently together but not both + and -.

So keeping both charged can be a problem. Really need 2 trickle-charges in the battery box Also, which gets to be a tight fit, unless the chargers are Very small. I found some that are about the size of a pack of cigarettes.

I had my 626 setup that way, with 2 Optimas, until I needed the second battery and charger in another car, so pulled it out. </div></div>

Also, don't connect them in serial shocked.gif !

As for keeping them charged, you could just take it off the charger, put on some post caps, and stick it in the golf bag area for emergencies. Just take it out when you return and put back on the trickle charger. They really are that light and small.

A jump in the trunk, so to speak...

Right, series, not serial. Duh. Thanks Rick (see his post below).

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes, connecting them in Series, makes them a 12.volt battery, so you definitly don't want to do that either.

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Took the old battery to Advanced and they said it was dead. I'm just gonna try the Autozone battery (525 CCA) because no one else seems to have anything. You think the 525 CCA will be enough?

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Guest 39Super8

I would strongly recommend and agree with the guys on using an Optima battery. They are high CCA and recover incredibly fast after starting. One of the PI regions offers a carefully crafted empty battery case and fiberglass top to put the Optima in cross ways that looks great. At first glance, it looks like an old tar top lead acid battery. I have this setup in my car and am very happy with it. The empty case is a one-time purchase and the Optima lasts twice as long, and reliably starts the car. It’s worth the investment.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Here's Link to Tar-Topper battery cover web-site.

I have one of these in my '56 and it looks good.

(I would call it a 5 footer)

http://www.tartopper.com/

But since 327's battery is located under seat, there's no need for this type cover in their '34.

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Guest imported_Speedster

327,

If you can't find an Optima 6.volt in stock at parts stores, most will order them for you. Only takes a day or so.

I know O'Rielly's will.

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Guest imported_Speedster

The 875 is sufficient, but if the 1020 doesn't cost much more I would get it. It can never be too large, as far as current capability is concerned. Only when it's too big to fit in battery-box, is it too large.

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