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Front Brake Upgrade, Really


Guest MauiWowee

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Guest MauiWowee

First, I must credit Greg Ross, who has brought this upgrade to the attention of this group and answered many questions. Greg credits someone else, but I forgot who at what website. Originally called the "Aurora brake upgrade", this gives you a clue as to what components to get. As I recall, the calipers and rotors needed come from mid to late 90's big GM cars. A quick search on the Advance Auto Parts or similar sites will give you the list. I'm sure someone with a better memory may chime in with the list also.

Be sure to get loaded calipers if you are getting new, which should come with the brackets. If sourcing from a boneyard, tell them you need the unit complete with brackets.

Used calipers will need NEW caliper bolts. I chose to get powdercoated calipers and drilled and slotted rotors from Discbrakes.com.

Remove the wheel after jacking up the front end. Do one side at a time.

Unbolt the brake line, and secure it as high as possible to prevent losing too much brake fluid.

Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the rear of the caliper.

Slide the caliper off of the rotor.

Remove the rotor (This may require some effort, lube, and tapping)

The holes in the steering knuckle that the caliper bracket bolts went through now need to be enlarged. A 9/16" bit will do the job.

(Caution: if you are using a high torque drill, when the bit reaches the back of the hole, it will grab, almost breaking your wrist. Don't ask how I know)

The bolts for the new calipers are metric. I had to go to a fastener specialty house to get the right size. NAPA failed me for the first time.

Slide the new rotor over the hub.

Slide the new caliper onto the rotor.

Using the new bolts, bolt the caliper onto the knuckle.

Using NEW crush washers, re-attach the brake line. Mine was a tight fit.

Now you need an assistant to help bleed the brake line. Be careful not to empty the reservoir.

Replace the wheel, properly torqueing the bolts.

(You do know this upgrade requires at least 16" wheels, don't you?)

Do the other side.

Carefully at first, take a test ride. There is a proper way to break in new pads, but I'll leave that to someone else, or you might be able to find where it was discussed here before. I am very pleased with this upgrade. Braking is almost effortless.

BTW, yes, I know this post is worthless without pics, but I am nowhere near my car. I miss it.

If I have forgotten something, or mis-spoken, I'm sure it will be pointed out, and I will edit my humble effort. cool.gif

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here is a trick with the brake line.after you remove it from the caliper, take a little plastic bag over the end and secure with a rubber band. A few wraps with the rubber band and it will not drip. When ready to install very little mess.

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There are several choices among the upgrades. Coming to this as a johnny-come-lately after Greg and F14, I was able to try yet another possiblity. If you look through the archives at the "brake upgrade" thread, you will see sources, prices, pictures, and detailed instructions for using the twin piston cast aluminum caliper/bracket from the 2001 Camaro Z28. These are a pure bolt up, no drilling necessary and are sold with or without the mounting bracket [bracket necessary for our application]. They are used with the 99+ Aurora rotor. As Maui points out, you get more braking area, more even pad pressure from 2 pistons, and better heat dissipation with finned aluminum. I prefer low-dust ceramic pads, so I don't buy loaded calipers.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">These are a pure bolt up, no drilling necessary and are sold with or without the mounting bracket [bracket necessary for our application]. </div></div>

Was this the upgrade that needed a special bolt? I'm sure 16" or larger wheels would be needed, right?

Thanks for the information.

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Guest MauiWowee

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Vincent Vega</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are the stock brakes that bad? Why go through the trouble of an upgrade? Seems unnecessary for everyday driving with a stock drivetrain. </div></div>

Perhaps it depends on what kind of every day driving you do. And when you are looking at replacing most of the front brake components anyway, what's the harm in improvements?

BTW, I did it because it pleases me. cool.gif

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I have just spent a lot of time trying to and succeeding in finding 4 exceptional stock '90 wheels. Is there an upgrade (better braking power efficiency/larger surface area) available that does not require the use of 16" wheels? I hate changing from stock and especially since I will now have such nice wheels to go with the rest of the car.....

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nic walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have just spent a lot of time trying to succeeding in finding 4 exceptional stock '90 wheels. Is there an upgrade (better braking power efficiency/larger surface area) available that does not require the use of 16" wheels? I hate changing from stock and especially since I will now have such nice wheels to go with the rest of the car..... </div></div>

Nic, I'm a little confused. You say you need '90 model wheels but your tagline says you have two '90 model Reattas. Did you mean '91? If so what would you think would be a fair price for them. I'm also looking for 16" wheels so I can do the brake upgrade myself and I have no idea what to expect to pay for them.

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Hey there TD Man....I have a 90 (2 actually, however one is a Select Sixty and has 16" wheels). I have just recently aquired 4 near mint wheels to replace my present very nice wheels for my 90 coupe, and would like to know if there is a brake upgrade that did not require the use of 16" wheels for the coupe.....sorry if I am confusing things....probably should have started another thread frown.gif....

Nic

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As far as I know, the Aurora upgrade does not require any change in wheels, but I'm not sure about that. F-14 or Maui will have to answer that for sure. The Aurora came stock with 16s. It takes a little looking, but I generally pay about $125 for used 17s in good condition. That's what I paid for the OEM 17 Mustang wheels. They fit our cars perfectly.

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Guest MauiWowee

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Richard S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As far as I know, the Aurora upgrade does not require any change in wheels, but I'm not sure about that. F-14 or Maui will have to answer that for sure. </div></div>

Sorry for the confusion. The Aurora upgrade does require at least 16" wheels, such as my '91. cool.gif

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F 14 and Maui or anyone please.....are there any calipers and discs/rotors that are just plain ole better than stock (bigger pad area - better braking efficiency) that could be purchased/installed please? Barney was asking about ceramic not to long ago....are there any ceramic pads available for the Reatta?

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Guest MauiWowee

I think EDBSO posted some hi-tech pads, and also wasn't someone looking into swapping into aluminum dual piston calipers under 15" wheels? If you wanted to be thorough, stainless braided front brake lines are the crowning touch, of course using hi-tech brake fluid. cool.gif

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I wish some one would put together a list of parts & part numbers for this Brake up grade, so that others could perform the project with out any problems.

I also know that it is NOT going to happen, because I asked for this list to be posted twice before and still have not seen it.

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I too have been trying to make some sense of all that has been posted on the forum. So I am going to make list what I THINK is correct, then maybe we will get corrections and then a good list.........

For the basic upgrade, rotors and calipers from the following GM front wheel cars from 1997-2004

Aurora

Intrique

Bonneville

Seville

Deville

Eldorado

Park Ave

Lesabre

Riviera

Impala

Monte Carlo

I suspect the Grand Prix is also the same.

Using the standard parts (not the Camaro caliper)here are the questions.........

(1) does the Reatta brake hose work?

(2) Does the caliper mounting bracket from the donor car work on the Reatta?

(3) Does something need to be drilled?

(4) Can you use the Reatta caliper mounting bolts?

Now, If you want to use the Camaro dual piston caliper.

(A) Does the Reatta brake hose work? I think the answer is NO

(B) Does the Camaro caliper mounting bracket work on the Reatta?

© Does something need to be drilled? I think the answer is NO ...IF the answer to (B) is YES

(D) I believe you use the Camaro caliper mounting bolts IF the answer to (B) is YES

Now, lets see if we get any straight answers.

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Guest MauiWowee

Here's what I know..........

Using the standard parts (not the Camaro caliper)here are the questions.........

(1) does the Reatta brake hose work?

Yes, however it is a tight stretch and I am not very comfortable with it. I may try to find some slack further up the hose, but will probably have some slightly longer stainless hoses made.

(2) Does the caliper mounting bracket from the donor car work on the Reatta?

Yes, the mounting bracket for the new calipers is a must.

(3) Does something need to be drilled?

For the new caliper bracket to work, the two mounting holes at the knuckle must be drilled. There is a metric measurement for this, but 9/16" is close enough.

(4) Can you use the Reatta caliper mounting bolts?

No, the new bolts are larger in diameter. I must point out to avoid confusion that the caliper to bracket bolts are also larger, and must be replaced, not reused. They are the long pointed ones. The others are only 1"-1 1/4" and a special thread. See first post.

I cannot help with the other questions. cool.gif

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What works and what does not on the aluminum twin piston

Z-28 [not all Camaro's used this particular caliper] upgrade:

A. The Reatta brake hose works fine. However, we cannot use the Reatta bolt that mounts the hose to the caliper. I used a Z-28 bolt, but I'm sure a lot of other applications used the same bolt.

B. Yes. You must use the Z-28 bracket, but it is a bolt up to our knuckle. No drilling required.

C. No. No drilling required.

D. I used the Reatta mounting bolts. They are obviously the same diameter and thread, though I am not sure if the Reatta and Z-28 are the same length.

E. Both upgrades use the same rotor.

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