tbirdman Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I would like to remove my radiator shutters for replating from my 32 coupe roadster without dismantling the whole front end of my car What's the best way to do this? Do I have to remove the headlight bar? Also how do you remove the hood.Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I'm going to assume, time will tell if correctly or not, that a 9th series comes apart the same as the 11th series. I believe they should as they are basically the same bodies and chassis. You say you have chrome shutters so you probably have a Super 8 or Twin Six, but I believe all series disassemble the same. You'll remove the entire radiator, shell, and shutters as a single assembly and then remove the shell to access the shutter assembly. It's actually pretty obvious with a bit of study how to take this all apart. Remove the hood by removing the hinge end-brackets, and lift it off. The hood will want to flop and fold so you'll want two or three others to assist with this. Remove the radiator support rods which run to the cowl. Remove the radiator hoses. There is a support rod behind the shutters to which the headlight support arms bolt with 3 acorn-headed bolts. Go underneath and you'll find one or two large nuts (with cotters as I remember) which hold the base of the radiator cradle into the front crossmember, remove them and when you remove the radiator, take note of the position and numbers of shims and rubber pads. You'll also want some help in lifting the radiator/shell/shutters as the assembly is a bit heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 The best method I know of to remove those hoods is to make two "hood removal" 2 x 4s. Take two 2 x 4s, cut to length in excess of the width of the car (plus about 18" for each side=36") using a table saw mill a perpendicular slot (dado)about 3/4" x 3/4" exactly in the center. Mill a perpendicular mortise about 3/4" deep x 4" out roughly 16-24 inches from center on each side--measure the distance each hood side goes downward at front and rear average that figure out and that wil be the good dimension from center.make the outer cut of the mortise angle so that the bottom of that cut angles outward--toward the outer "handle" areas of said 2 x 4. It's a good idea to take old towels and tape them around the inner areas of the boards where the dado/mortises aren't to protect the car's finish. when finished making these hood lifters you get a buddy, (before you start drinking beer), undo the clamps that hold the center rod of the hood to the cowl and radiator, place the two "hood removers" under the hood, one at a time, place the center hinge of the hood in the center notch (dado) and the outer bottom panels of the raised hood into the outer mortises, the bottom of the hood resting into the angled outside notch, limiting its ability to slide along the board and flatten the hood. The two of you very carefuly walk the hood forward by lifting the two boards and walking slowly together, talking your way through so that everyone understands what you are thinking/doing. These boards are a must at any shop that works on 2 teens-30's cars. We had a fancy set at the shop I worked at,made in the wood shop, had padded leather "protectors" instead of the simple towel I described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 OK-confusing--a picture is worth a thousand words! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 15, 2007 Author Share Posted October 15, 2007 Mr Pushbutton,I understand your design however I'm not sure why you just can't undo the radiator and cowl clamps and with mutliple people lift the hood off the car. Since I have never done this there is probably a easy explanation.Also once you have you walked the hood off the car, can you lay it down on a protected surface and then move it to vertical to carry it through a doorway to another room for safekeepng? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 yes, you can get a lot of people, they have to be in lock-step and not tripping on each other. With two people you can have a little more control, or you can dry-run it with four people. After you get it off of the car you can do whatever you want, but don't stress the top halves--worry about that always while the hood is off of the car--that is another goal of the above tool--control the movement of all four panels and aviod stressing the top halves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 15, 2007 Author Share Posted October 15, 2007 Maybe I will have 4 people even with the helper 2x4s. Better safe than sorry. Great drawing.Now to figure out how to get the shutters off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I wish I would have had that advice when I took my hood off. What a great way to store it while it's off, also!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Owen_Dyneto,Thanks. I was told that you could remove the shell, shutters and radiator as one piece and then remove the shutters, but wasn't sure how what to unbolt. I'll will most like remove the horns and lights to provide some more access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 OK, made the 2X4's. I did it slightly different because my radial saw table was not together. I used strips of 1X4 to make the grooves and cut out areas. I had some extra micro fiber towels that I glue in those areas.I was amazed after working on the car front end last winter, the lights, horns etc came off in a jiffy. Now to wait for a couple of friends to get some free time. I hope to be able to lift the radiator over the headlight bar as that is quite involved to removed that piece, and I rather not go there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 The hood support tool assembly is a great idea, thanks joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 IIRC the radiator shutters are riveted to the common linkage that connects them to the thermostat "plunger"I think you have to drill them out and replace with new when you are done. Max Merritt makes the rivets, sells them in a pack, enough to do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IIRC the radiator shutters are riveted to the common linkage that connects them to the thermostat "plunger"I think you have to drill them out and replace with new when you are done. Max Merritt makes the rivets, sells them in a pack, enough to do the job. </div></div>I already have the rivets however I'm going to let the chrome shop do that as they have a guy who specializes in restoring these that works with the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 OK, I'm almost there. Got the hood off and the front shell with radiator off.Now I'm trying to remove the radiator and shutters from the grill. I have unbolted all of the bolts but the 3 on the side that look like they should be removed to get the radiator out as you would never get the top ones back in.So I'm stuck for now but I had too much fun for tonight. So what is the correct procedure for removing the radiator and shutters from the shell assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 If I recalled correctly mine just had a bunch of tiny screws that held the chrome shell to the radiator. Took them out and shell came right of the radiator. I can take a look at it for you tonight since it is just leaning up against the wall in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 might be a good time to take that radiator to a rad shop and have it power-flushed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Did that when I inherited the car back in '96. Also had the gas tank done.Do you think I should take it in again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">might be a good time to take that radiator to a rad shop and have it power-flushed </div></div>That's in the plan. No sense doing all of this without doing doing the power flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Do you need me to take a picture of the special tool we made to "power flush" the engine? Remember to take the water distribution tube out to make sure it is in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you need me to take a picture of the special tool we made to "power flush" the engine? Remember to take the water distribution tube out to make sure it is in good condition. </div></div>So what is the water distribution tube? I was planning to take the radiator to the shop to have the flush done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I recalled correctly mine just had a bunch of tiny screws that held the chrome shell to the radiator. Took them out and shell came right of the radiator. I can take a look at it for you tonight since it is just leaning up against the wall in the garage. </div></div>I may need two hands. I thought the radiator and the shutter came out in one piece, so I thought I unbolted everything to allow that. I was trying it alone so I'll get some help tonight. I don't want to scratch the painted shell thoough I could chrome it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Ken,Yes two guys would definitely help. That radiator is one heavy beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Yea, Wes, I thought of the distribution tube after posting that. The distribution tube is a brass quadrillaterial shaped tube that evely distributes the cooled water along the length of the engine block. There is an access plate on the top-front of the engine far accessing the tube, and they can and do rot with age, limiting the ability of the coolant to do its job. They are being reproduced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yea, Wes, I thought of the distribution tube after posting that. The distribution tube is a brass quadrillaterial shaped tube that evely distributes the cooled water along the length of the engine block. There is an access plate on the top-front of the engine far accessing the tube, and they can and do rot with age, limiting the ability of the coolant to do its job. They are being reproduced. </div></div>In that case, it was replaced about 13 years ago. I'm assuming it should sill be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yea, Wes, I thought of the distribution tube after posting that. The distribution tube is a brass quadrillaterial shaped tube that evely distributes the cooled water along the length of the engine block. There is an access plate on the top-front of the engine far accessing the tube, and they can and do rot with age, limiting the ability of the coolant to do its job. They are being reproduced. </div></div>In that case, it was replaced about 13 years ago. I'm assuming it should sill be good. </div></div>I think I mispoke. I was thinking on the water jacket cover. Is that removed to access the water distribution tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 No. It's behind the water pump, and runs straight back from there. The water pump pumps water through it. There are many holes in it and allows cooled water to make it all the way to the back cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Has anyone played with slightly larger holes in the 2 rear clyinders to see if improve overall cooling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Never thought of that at the time, Joe. My car seems to cool quite well, though, except when I run it up to 75mph for long periods of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 I don't think the 1932 has a water disibution tube. The water Jacket has holes, and the water pump pushes the water into a large rectangular hole in the jacket, and the jacket has holes in it for front to back distribution...B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 Thanks for all of your help. I missed a few screws at the base of the unit and then with two hands we were able to separate the two units. Off to the chrome shope tomorrow to get my lady's teeth whiten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 That water tube is way different then mine. Mine is on the side which is a long plate that has umpteen screws holding it on.Ken good job. Two hands make a difference. When I was dismantling mine I did it by myself but now since car is going to a little prettier I will diffidently call in the troops to help me reinstall it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think the 1932 has a water disibution tube. The water Jacket has holes, and the water pump pushes the water into a large rectangular hole in the jacket, and the jacket has holes in it for front to back distribution...B </div></div>Well I took off the water jacket. Someone had installed it with RTV. I probably made the mistake of not back flushing the engine before I started all of this. Anyway with RTV all over the water jacket, I'll probably spring for a repo one. Any place besides Max Merritt I should look for one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 Cleaning the bolts tonight for the water jacket, I find out the bolt size heads are mixed. Well if I'm going to do it right, now I need to get all bolts the right head thickness...of course getting the ones with the thicker 1/4 head vs the mordern thinner hex heads are not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Ken,I know you are looking for original but you may want to consider stainless. When I went to take mine off for the first time a few bolts broke off on me so I had to add heli (?sp) coils. That is just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Tom, several of mine broke off too, but I was lucky enough to drill them out and save the original threads... I'm seriously thinking stainless when I put them back. When I use stainless, I hold the heads to a belt sander, and remove the markings that say it's stainless....B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 Can you find stainless with the right head thickness? All of mine came out without incident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Tbird, I have never seen stainless with the thick heads like the old hex heads are.. I just use what the local machine shop has... Some concessions have to be made.... and I'd hate to think what it would cost to have all those hex head screws made to order Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I hold the heads to a belt sander, and remove the markings that say it's stainless....B </div></div>What I do is put them in a drill spin them while holding them up to the side of my bench grinder then wire wheel them. If I had a buffing wheel I would do the same just to shine them up a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Ken that is one of the down sides finding the thicker head bolts for our cars. For me I am just going for a driver but for someone like you going concourse it a whole new ball game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Well I have located thicker head screws at Classic and Exotic So at $2.50 each, that is $100 to make the water jacket bolts correct...but will anyone notice. As typical I'm over budget on my winter project and it's only November.I used a deburring wheel on a buffer setup to grind off the stainless markings and polish them. At $40 not cheap, but does a great job off converting cheap stainless bolts to polished ones.One thing I'm looking for is a set of rods that have different threads in each end for different size bolts. That way you can screw the bolt in to the rod and have a handy holder while deburring/polishing the bolts. Those bolts can get hot I found company that made the rods once, but stopped because of no demand. I friend had a home made set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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