Terry Wiegand

I have an used Delco Distributor and Rotor that will fit the Buick Light Sixes from 1916 thru 1920. They came off my '16 D-45 and I have a NOS cap and rotor that will go back on the car when everything goes back together. This cap and rotor is in pretty decent serviceable condition. The engine ran fine with the pieces the last time the car was driven. I am asking $295.00 for both parts. I'm told if you can find these parts they are bringing over $400.00 these days. This is a genuine DELCO cap and rotor - not an aftermarket product. Call or email for more information if needed. The asking price DOES NOT include the threaded wire terminals. You will have to supply yours from your old or present cap. The threads on these caps are metric by the way. Price does not include shipping or insurance. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 eMail - terrywiegand@prodigy.net

I have a 1920 Buick K-46 that sat in dry storage for 61 years. Needless to say, it had gasoline tank issues. Last year at about this time I went into the shop and the strong smell of gasoline met me at the door. Following the nose led right to the rear of the '20 and a sizeable pool of fuel on the floor right under the tank. I got the car pushed outside immediately and the mess cleaned up on the floor. I drained the tank and pulled it off the car right away. I sent the tank out to Linings, Incorporated in Ravenna, Ohio. It took them about two days to get the outside stripped clean and then they went to work on the tank. They told me the bottom of the tank between the baffles looked like a screen door. They cut a section out that was about 7 inches wide X 15 inches long. While they had it open it was cleaned thoroughly. They made a new piece of the correct gauge and ran it through their roller to get the correct contour and then stitch welded it back in place. The coating is a ceramic material and has a lifetime guarantee on it. Heck of a deal. The gentleman that I dealt with was a really nice guy and he knows his stuff when it comes to fuel tanks. He said to me, "I dare you to find where we cut it open". I couldn't - these guys are that good. They charged me $325.00 for all the work they did and I thought that that was very reasonable. It is under paint and it is one beautiful tank. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

The best place that I have found for the 'old style' screws is Jamestown Distributors. We have two Ace Hardware Stores in our town and they are the last place on earth to find honest-to-God hardware. I would personally like to beat the living crap out of the dumb#$% that came up with those Phillips Head screws. They are not correct for automobiles built before the second world war. Regarding the Nickel plating on the screws - use stainless screws and put them in your drill motor and hit them with some polishing compound and a piece of ScotchBrite and you will have a fastener that looks for all the world like it has been plated. I think I have a box of 100 of just about every type of screw head that is available from JD. They are great folks to deal with and can fix you right up. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I am just going to have to ask why would a person need a wheel puller for an automobile that has full floating rear axles like the Buick has. I realize that the car in question is a 4-cylinder series Buick. My sales literature on the 4-cylinder models states that these cars have a three quarter floating rear axle. The reason I stated my question like I did in the first sentence is that I have seen requests in the past for pullers for a full floating rear axle. Please explain the application on a three quarter floating axle relative to a puller being needed. I simply have not been around very many 4-cylinder Buicks and never too old to learn. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

John, are you referring to the water pump packing material? If you are then PM me and let me know how much you need. I have a trainload of the stuff that I got at Chickasha a few years back. Terry Wiegand terrywiegand@prodigy.net

I know this is a little bit out of the automobile venue, but, I am putting my South Bend lathe up for sale. It is a 9-inch swing with 48-inch centers and was built on September 24, 1946. I have used it quite a bit in the past and I am going to upgrade to a little bit bigger machine. I can provide photos to interested persons. It has the steady rest and the follower rest and a really nice stand that I made for it. The stand has been powder coated Black. I am asking $2500.00 for it and I could possibly help in delivery for fuel expenses. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net Dandy Dave, this is right up your alley and down your street!

It would be nice to know what you are going to ask for it. What is the condition of the package? The pictures don't quite tell the whole story. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I have pretty much driven Buick cars and Chevrolet trucks all of my life and I am into late teens and early twenties Buicks. So, I'm a bona-fide Buick guy. I must ask if anyone on the Chevrolet forums attended the Chevrolet Dealer auction in Nebraska over this past weekend? I read on the internet where the first seven vehicles brought almost a half million dollars. Unbelievable. If a person was into old Chevrolets then it sounded like that was the place to be. The article stated that people came from all over the world. I wonder if Pinky Randall was there? Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

Crazycars, I have a '22 Model 48 and it has 25 inch, steel-felled wheels. Maybe I'm missing something here so I'm going to have to ask - is your car a 6-cylinder model? I think you might have a rough time finding a set of wheels that will be in decent shape that someone would be willing to get rid of. This is just MY opinion here. I thought I was wrong once but it turned out that I was wrong - a little humor there. If you are needing wheels then might you possibly be needing some split rims too? I have two, pretty nice 25 inch Jaxon split rims to fit the 1922 models. Several years ago I bought three split rims to get the one rim that had never had a tire mounted on it to use for the second spare on my Model 48. You might send me a PM if you are interested in the rims. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America terrywiegand@prodigy.net

Since everyone is putting up photos of their favorite Buick or Buicks in a Fall setting, I thought it would be nice to show off the Model 48 in a photo that was taken a few years ago in one of the most beautiful old residential settings in our town. This was taken the day before Halloween and it was cool to say the least. We even had the floorboard mounted exhaust heater in operation and it worked just great. There is just something about an old Buick on a beautiful late Fall afternoon. It just doesn't get any better than that. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I thought I had better post these photos of the intake and exhaust manifolds from my '16 D-45 to show what the ceramic coating did for them. I will have to give credit to Mr. Mark (the durcodude) Shaw for giving me the information about Finish Line Coatings in the Portland, Oregon area. I am extremely happy with the way things turned out and this is just one less thing to worry about when it comes time to get re-assembly under way. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I thought Mr. Earl might be needing a 1954 Buick 'fix' today, so I have included a few photos of my friend in Wichita, Kansas and his 1954 Buick. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I had a chance to read the latest Hemming's Collector Car magazine earlier this evening and that is quite an article. Dave, you oughta be proud of that Buick. There was host of pictures and there was even one of Ol' Rascally Dave hisself thrown in for good measure. All I can say at this point is, Good On Ya, son! Terry (The Buickologist) Wiegand Doo Dah America

Might you have any footrest brackets? I'm looking for the brackets that hold the flat, carpeted board for my K-46. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America terrywiegand@prodigy.net

I just got a call from Richard Ellis and he told me that the Buick has been sold. He said it is going to a new home in Houston. I just wanted to let everyone what has happened with this ad. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

As I said in original post, it has been several years since seeing the car. Richard's phone number is in the post. The best thing to do is ring him up and talk to him. I know him, he's a nice guy and will not bite. This is the best thing that I can do for you guys out there. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I am passing along the information about a 1934 Buick Model 47 that is for sale in Hutchinson, Kansas. It has been several years since I have seen the car. The last time I saw the car it was in very good original condition and ran well. The owners name is Richard Ellis and he can be reached at (620) 663-7065. I think that the car was sold new in Hutchinson, but not 100% sure about that. I remember seeing the car being driven daily on the streets when I was a teenager over 50 years ago. Was told that the asking price is $6,000. An early straight eight for a reasonable price. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

Mike, send me a PM with your address and phone number and I will send you about 3 feet of the packing material that will work for your pump. I bought a spool of this stuff at Chickasha one year for $5.00. There must be at least 2 - 3 hundred feet of the stuff. I repacked the pumps on my '20 and '22 and they haven't dripped a drop since. I'll use it on the '16 when it goes back together. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America terrywiegand@prodigy.net

Give that man a thousand 'Attaboys"!! These are the kind of instructions that even a dufus can understand. I keep tellin' everybody that one of these days all of this high tech stuff is gonna murder high tech. And then where will we be? OH WELL. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

All of you following this thread might be very surprised to know just how much metric fasteners were used in this time frame and especially in the ignition parts area. Before you run that tap through the threads you might check with a place called Maryland Metrics. If it has anything to do with metric threads these folks will have it. The threaded post Delco distributor caps used an off the wall metric thread. I went to these folks for a button die to chase the threads on several old caps that I have and they fixed me right up for a very reasonable price. I do not have their phone number right in front of me. Do a Google search and you will have it in a minute or two. In the interest of maintaining originality this might be the way to go. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

Mr. Stanley, it is not a question of Buicks being more popular. It is just the plain fact that a Buick is a better automobile period. Haven't you heard or read about their slogan? - Buick - The Standard of The World. And when a Buick motors by, folks stop and say, "He Drives a Buick". There is only one other motor car better than a Buick and that would be a NEW Buick. We hope your questions have been answered clearly and to the point. I was taught at a very early age that there are only three things in this world worth a solitary dime. They are GM, HD, and JD. Not necessarily in that order though. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

WELL DOG MY CATS!!! Who woulda thunk that the Buick Engineering Department sorta knew what they were doing back then. Glad to hear that things are working out for you. I'm willing to bet that you are really happy about not spending a ton of money on a new core. I really appreciated the explanation given by Mr. Engle about how the Buick cooling system should work. That is the kind of answer that the common guy can understand. Thanks again. I'm still gonna say that I have seen the restrictor washer work in several cooling systems and work mighty well they do. I think we all learned something here. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

Somebody on here is going to have to explain WHY the fellow in the UK put a small restrictor washer in the radiator inlet tube on his car and the overheating problem went away. Somebody should explain WHY the fellow with the 1925 Chevrolet 4-cylinder roadster put the restrictor washer back in his radiator and his overheating problems stopped right there. I just simply want to know WHY this works. I have seen this demonstrated more than once. The automobiles in this time frame used a non-pressurized cooling system and the radiator cores were between 2 - 3 inches thick. My Dad restored 2-cylinder John Deere Tractors and they all used the Thermo-Syphon cooling system (no water pump) and had radiator cores that were upward of 4 - 5 inches thick. Those engines ran really warm and this was a plus for burning distillate fuel. I will argue till those proverbial cows come home that the coolant has to stay long enough in the core to give up the heat it is carrying. I want everyone to understand that I am talking about an absolutely CLEAN cooling system here. There just has to be something going on here that has not been discussed. When I took the radiator core from my 1920 K-46 to the shop to have it flushed and back flushed, I asked the guy about the Black paint he sprayed on the core after he had finished testing the unit. He told me that that paint is designed specially for radiators in that it will dissipate heat. My Buicks run fine with no heating problems. I run a 50/50 mix of the old Green Zerex anti-freeze and that alone will help an engine to run a little cooler. A good rust inhibitor and water pump lubricant on top of it all. I think all of the folks on here would really hate to see a goodly amount of money spent on a new radiator core and that not be needed at all. OH WELL, with my thoughts and 55 cents one can buy a soda at Costco. Good luck. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

Jerry Van, I really think you are missing my point here. With all due respect, your logic is like that old dog that won't hunt. I will be the first to admit that if the radiator core is clogged or partially stopped up then there will be heating problems. My friend in the UK had an engine block, water pump, and radiator core that was as clean as a whistle, and he had heating problems. The problem with what you are saying just doesn't add up right. In an automobile cooling system the radiator core does not generate heat, but, the engine block does. How do you get rid of the building up heat? The radiator core of course. Just keep circulating the water back through the block and it is going to do nothing but continue to get hotter. It was mentioned earlier that a radiator core full to the cap should empty in 2 seconds. I'm not from Missouri, but I'm gonna hafta be shown that. I just ain't buyin' that in any way, shape, or form. The bottom tank connection would have to be the size of a gallon paint can to do that. If you have a 'clean' cooling system and there are overheating problems, then the logical thing to do is slow down the circulation a little bit so that the radiator can do its job. What other reasonable answer is there? Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

I think I know what your problem is. Have seen this several times before on other Buicks and a 1925 4-cylinder Chevrolet Roadster many, many years ago. I have a friend over in the UK who has a Buick Touring that he uses for weddings, social gatherings, and whenever someone wants the use of an open antique automobile. A couple of years ago he sent me an email saying that the car would overheat after running about 5 minutes. He listed all of the things that had been done to the engine. The engine had been totally gone through. The cylinder block had gone through a hot tank to clean the water jacket. Came out clean as a whistle. The water pump was rebuilt. Pumped water like a fire truck. The radiator core was flushed and back flushed and the water just fell through it. My friend was really starting to get concerned about what was going on with this engine. The first thing that I suggested to him was to have the mechanic double check the timing. Just a degree or two off will cause an engine to run hotter than a biscuit. He got back with me a few days later and told me that the mechanic said the timing was spot on to what it should be. OK, now what he asks. I remembered the guy in my home town with the '25 Chevy Roadster - he had the same identical problem. I then told my friend that his problem was the coolant was passing through the radiator too fast. On the Chevrolet there was a restrictor washer on the radiator intake tube that was about the size of a quarter. It had a hole in the center about the size of a dime. This slowed the water down going into the top of the radiator long enough for the radiator to do its job. The guy at the radiator shop did not know what this was for and took it out. The overheating problems began immediately. I told my friend about this and he almost couldn't believe it. He put a little restrictor washer in the top tank inlet tube and the problem was solved. I would be willing to bet that this is your problem. A whole lot easier fix than a new radiator core. Think about it. Water running too fast through a radiator doesn't have a chance to give up its heat. Let us know how things work out for you. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America