Joe Cocuzza

Tom, I hope you realize that these have damage to them and may not be of any use except to use as a reference as to what you need. You may be able to use one of them but I am sure the other is no good. If you still want them let me know. Joe

Tom, Are these the fittings you are looking for? I don't know if these would do you any good These two are probably no good as there is damage to the outside. If you want them to try and match something up I will send them to you if you'll pay the postage. Joe

Looks like someone has a "BUG" up their butt.....

Which of the 2 solenoids do you need - square or round one? I have several Chrysler starters and would sell a solenoid if I have the correct one for you. Let me know. Joe Also, sent you a PM

Ebay item #'s - 330568232376 220829454015 for taillights - they are not $888.00 Also, brake light lenses - # 160634686860 Joe

I would suggest you go on the Mass DMV Website and poke around. You can probably find out what you need to know. Also, you can get a phone # and call them. I did this with Vt. and had absolutely no problems. Joe

The unit picks up its ground from the housing mechanism being screwed down to the tank AND through the retaining ring making contact with the tank and the housing. It is important to clean all the surfaces with a wire brush/scouring pad before reinstalling so as to get a good ground. Keep us posted as to what happens next. Joe

I know on the later 1940's Chrysler cars, and I don't see why a 41 would be different, the housing of the float mechanism is grounded when it is bolted/screwed to the gas tank and the retaining ring is put on. So I usually take a wire lead with alligator clips and ground the mechanism, while it is out of the tank, to a bolt in the trunk. Then I check to see if it works. I believe that the 2 wire setup is - 1 is hot - feeds voltage to the mechanism / 2 sends a pulse signal to the gauge. So the grounding has to come from the housing. I hope all of this helps. I may not be 100% correct on every statement but I think I am pretty close. If I stand to be corrected, by anyone, just be nice about it. I never claimed to know all there is to know but I have had, and worked on, many Chryslers. I am going by memory here and sometimes, even though I am "only" 54 years old, there is always the chance of a brain fart here and there. Joe

Gary, I am not trying to be a smart*** (only trying to help) but when you removed the float mechanism and moved the arm up/down, did you have the housing of the mechanism grounded somewhere? You need to ground it otherwise you will not get a reading. Joe

Hi Gary, It could be that, if it is the original float mechanism, the cork float in the gas tank has started to absorb the gasoline and is now saturated and can no longer "float". What can happen thru the years is that the sealer used on the floats will break down and then the cork will become saturated and no longer function properly. As long as you have checked the ground/connections and are satisfied that they are not the problem, then the next best thing to do is pull the float mechanism and while it is out of the tank, you can check to see if it works properly by moving the arm thru the "full - to - empty" ranges and watch (or have someone else watch) the gauge in the dash to see what it is doing. You can inspect the cork float at that time, too. I believe that if it is the float you can get a replacement without too much hassle. I hope this helps. Joe

Okay. You sent him a $400.00 deposit. Now you see the car advertised again for a higher price. Did you call this guy and ask him WHY the car is being advertised after you sent a deposit???? I know that some of us like the "challenge" of bringing a car back from the brink and have the time and money to do so. Aside from that - if you've got REALLY deep pockets ANYTHING can be restored. Especially if someone else is restoring the car for you. (Send it to the shop/tell them to restore it/ and pick it up when it is done). I am not insinuating that is what you are going to do - only making a statement... Personally I wouldn't/couldn't see taking on such a project as my pockets are pretty shallow and my time is way too scarce. Your choice, of course. The advice from others about seeking out a car that is actually roadworthy but needing some work is at least worth considering. Buying this car and sinking $10K - $20K into it MAY get you to the point of it being roadworthy yet still needing a ton of work. $10K - $20K does not get you much in restoration materials/labor costs these days. But buying something for a higher initial cost and then putting $10K into it will bring you to a much further point into the restoration process - it may also be all you would need to invest to have a really nice car. Just my opinion Joe

Try TnCrestorations in Mineola, NY (516) 248-0639 - John I know they had a roll of this last year - not sure if it is sold. They may be able to lead you in the right direction if they don't have it anymore. Good Luck Joe By the way, what year is the T & C? You may consider using the mahogany wood veneer instead. There is a guy I know that does that.

"The recent heat wave takes its toll" !!!!!!!

I did this twice back in the 1980's. Yes, I got paid $100.00 for the day, too. But the one time I did not go with my car, a friend drove it to the set. After I got it back I was looking it over and under the front seat I see empty soda bottles, paper cups, cake wrappers, etc. There was no damage to the car but that really pissed me off and I would never do it again. The cars to them are "just props" and are treated as such. Joe

Here's another one. (I told you guys before, I got lots) Many moons ago, around 1982 or so, I owned a 47 DeSoto Suburban (another one I wish I kept). I went to a local flea market because I was told there was a guy that sold old car parts. He did not have what I was looking for but gave me the # of someone that lived in the area. Said he had a lot of NOS Chrysler stuff. Soooooo, I called this guy, got directions and went to his house. He took me into the garage to show me the NOS chrome he had but the second I set foot in the garage I didn't give a rats a** about the chrome. There sits in front of me a 50's Caddy and a 47 Town and Country Sedan. Again, long story short, after "harassing" for almost 20 years, I was FINALLY able to buy the T & C from him in 2000. I am still working on the Caddy, though. Joe

I am ALWAYS on the prowl for cars because I enjoy the "hunt" more than the actual ownership aspect. That said, about 10-12 years ago I was looking for a Sears car-top carrier. I found one in a local magazine called "Treasure Hunt" which comes out every Friday. So that night I called the # and after talking about the carrier the guy says to me, "You want to buy my car in the garage?" I said it depended on what it was and how much he wanted. He says "It's a 1965 Mustang". I really was not, and I am still not, that much into the Mustang thing, so I said I really wasn't interested. But then I asked if it was a coupe or convertible. (Big Mistake # 1). He says, "Convertible". I ask, "Is it red?" He says, "You know my car?" Of course I said no. The next question I asked, (Big Mistake # 2) "How much you want for it?" He says $2000.00 Now, I told him as long as I was coming to look at the car-top carrier I would look at the Mustang. I go, spend and hour or more looking at the car and I leave telling him that I would mull it over and get back to him after the weekend. Monday rolls around and me and the wife are sitting around and I ask her if she wanted to take a ride to look at the Mustang. (Big Mistake # 3) Okay she says. We drive to the car and park in front of the garage. As the owners wife is raising the door my wife punches me in the leg and says' "Are you crazy? Buy the car"!!! I was still hesitant (Big Mistake # 4) but succumbed to the pressure and bought the car for $1900.00. Put tires, carb, water pump, fuel pump and a few other odds and ends to get it running and now it is a nice car to putt around in. I still got that one, only because I get intense pushback from the entire family when I suggest selling it. I've got other stories but I'll let someone else takeover from here. Joe

Usually a long screwdriver can be inserted in the mechanism through the grill and that will release the hood.

Hi guys, The Macungie show had a pre-registration deadline of July 1st, 2011 Last year my friend drove 2 hours with his car and tried to register to get onto the show field that day. They would not allow it. I suppose they need to have numbers to set things up prior to the show. I would call first. The show is called Das Awchst Fest and it is a really nice one. The best day to see all the cars is Sunday. There is a class for Woodies which interests me. Even if you cannot get your car into the show it is worth the trip to go see the others anyway. Joe

I attended the very first and second shows in Wildwood with my 1947 Town and Country 20 some-odd years ago I know it was not a Buick but I drove the car from Columbia, NJ - 3+ hours - and never had an issue. Make sure, as stated in the previous thread, that you check everything before heading out. Take along some simple tools, too - just in case. I enjoyed driving the car there and to spend $1400.00 to transport it seems silly. Besides, I remember the multitude of thumbs-up, horn honking, etc as I was driving down the GSP. It was a nice feeling. The trip from Wayne is relatively straightforward and should pose no problems. Have fun and enjoy the car and the drive. Maybe I will attend this year. Joe

Funny how he found the time to take/post pictures of the NOS bumper guards because now he wants us to help him identify them.

Men's room and Ladies room for dogs !!!!!

What else is lurking in the shadows of that barn??? Are any other cars there for sale???

My 1948 Chrysler Town and Country Convertible - ( I sold it in 1990 or so to help build a new house for my family) and the 1949 Frazer Manhattan 4-door Convertible that I was "supposed" to get when the original owner passed on. Joe

Yep, I was doing a little detailing on my T & C sedan - figured "while I'm at it..." - 11 years later - still "detailing". BUT NEARING THE FINISH LINE !!!!!!! Joe

My 47 Town and Country Sedan has (IMO) the ugliest color that could have been selected in 1947. It is what I call Pea Green (actual color is Heather Green). I honestly do not like it at all. BUT it is the way the car came as originally ordered,and having resisted the pressure from outside influences, I repainted it in that God-awful color. As a matter of fact, the previous owner even wrote a letter to a Chrysler T & C expert asking what the consequences would be (value/collectibility wise) if the car was painted a different color. The answer was that given what the car was, changing the color would not significantly decrease the value but might turn off future buyers. It never crossed my mind to alter the originality of the car by changing the color. Maybe it is just me but I would rather live with an ugly color, which was original to the car, than to change what was produced back in 1947. This theory I would follow regardless of the car in question. Joe