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Joe Cocuzza

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Everything posted by Joe Cocuzza

  1. I had to do this, too. Not sure what you mean by sealing them. Are you talking about the inside of the panel (metal) or the wood veneer exterior or both? The panels were originally sealed on the inside with undercoating/sound deadener. I would treat the metal with that before reinstalling so as to prevent rust from moisture. Keep a little of the metal free of the undercoating around the edges so that when you glue them in place you have a good clean surface and they will sit flush in the frame. I used a good wood cement when installing them into the frame of the trunk lid. As far as sealing them on the outside I just used Spar varnish and made sure I got it into the seams between the trunk lid frame and the panels. I am sure you could use some sort of clear sealant, too, to seal where the panels (exterior side) meet the frame, before varnishing. Make sure you try to reinstall all of the blocks/screws that hold them in, too. If you want you can shim the panels, as I did, to keep them tight against the frame while the cement is curing. I am sure someone else will chime in here with suggestions. I am only telling you how I did this. Hope this helps. Joe
  2. https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-springs.aspx Try here for shocks
  3. Maybe stick a piece of wire into the outlet and see if it is clogged. I have blown air from the fuel pump BACK into the tank and I could hear the bubbles in the tank. I think your outlet is clogged.
  4. It appears that the owner was driving at 20 MPH while taking pics of the dashboard!!! I sure hope that wasn't the case...... Nice car BTW
  5. The T & C looks EXACTLY like mine. If I didn't know any better I'd swear someone took a picture of mine. BTW, are they for sale?
  6. I would leave it alone as the majority of these doors (plastic) are cracked. If you start to mess with it you might make it worse or crack it. That's just my opinion - from experience.
  7. The parking brake is actually connected to the rear of the transmission. It has the driveshaft connected to it. It is a round "drum" with a lining, which is inside a "band", on the outside. When you pull the brake handle up the lining compresses onto the drum. When you release the handle the "band" should expand and free the "drum" allowing the trans/driveshaft to spin. The lining/band on yours may be stuck to the drum. It may just need some "help" releasing and/or the spring mechanism may need to be adjusted or lubed to move freely. Also, sometimes the lining breaks away from the band and can become wedged against the drum not allowing it to spin.
  8. Depending on the length - Chrysler & DeSoto used a longer block/head/manifold - Dodge & Plymouth used a shorter block. The longer block would measure 25". It looks like a typical Mopar flathead 6 manifold. How much are you asking for it?
  9. Try OldMoparts. They sell a gasket set plus the seal(s).
  10. In the ad it states that the front clip had been repainted. I took a look at the pictures and even the doors look "off" as far as the color goes.
  11. I had a couple of these back in the 90's. One was Mustard Yellow and the other one was this same green. The most valuable thing(s) about these cars are the "soccer ball" wheels.
  12. Could be a couple of things. The top may be out of adjustment Or the top cylinder pump on that side is not working. It could have leaked the fluid or it could just be stuck. You could try to "help" it while someone operates the lever. You could try "assisting" that side to see what happens, too.
  13. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/14060/Chevrolet_Gas_Tank_Steel_Original_Style_Except_3Passenger.html
  14. Maybe it's just me BUT if I were looking to buy this one I would do a thorough inspection underneath seeing how, as the seller states, the "car has been off the road for years" and, as seen in the pictures, stored in an open carport - ON DIRT!!!! Plus, I see some substantial rust in the quarter panel
  15. Hi Jeff, That's the car I had spoken to the owner about months before it was put on Ebay. I wanted to buy it but he wanted to wait. Anyway, did you get the original engine and trans with the car? The car now has a V8 and Hydramatic in it, right? If I had bought it I would have replaced the V8 with the original engine and trans. But that's just me. I know the owner stated that the dashboard was "modified" so I can see why you need another one. Did you get the missing "header" that goes in the front section of the interior of the roof panel? Hopefully so. Good luck with it. Joe
  16. I see two holes in the door jamb. Shouldn't there be a Serial Number tag there or did Chrysler move it to a different location by then. I know earlier cars had it there. Maybe it's in the glove box from when the car was repainted. Also, the "CROWN" on the door panel looks to be broken off. That may be a difficult part to locate. However, it looks like a nice car judging from these pics.
  17. No pics of under the hood. If that is the original color then the firewall should be the same. Most of the time when a car is painted a different color the firewall is NOT changed to match the new color. Also, I see green overspray on the trunk lid weatherstrip so I think there was some "touching up" done.
  18. Agree.... Also, no pics of the "original" interior. Plus, if someone wants to protect the underside of a car at least mask off the area/parts you don't want overspray on. It just looks sloppy and rushed with all the overspray.
  19. "I admit the woodwork looks nice and professional to me" Plymouthcranbrook, I hope you were saying this in jest. That woodwork is FAR from even looking "professional" let alone actually being done professionally. Maybe my viewpoint is skewed a bit because I have owned, and still do, "factory" woodies and this car doesn't even come close to replicating them in style/fit/finish. I have seen some cars made into "woodies" and the workmanship was impeccable. This one, NOPE!!!! Just because someone "slaps" some real wood on a car doesn't make it a Woodie or more valuable. IMHO
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