JanZverina

A drawing would be great - thanks! My brake guy looked at my car this morning just to see what's involved, and he said that I do need a distribution block - he's not going to let me drive off without a brake warning light being installed. So I contacted Inline Tube (thanks again for mentioning them!) and was advised to get this: http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR-106a.htm Inline said PR2106A would work with a drum/drum dual m/c setup and give me the electrical connection I need. But I'd still like to see what you did. Embry's article in the Riview archives mentions a dist. block for a '67 drum/drum Riv and gives specs to fashion a support bracket. And yes, a proportioning valve is not needed. Much appreciated!

Kaber, Do you remember what distribution block you used? And how did you plumb in the brake light switch? Any pix would help, and thanks!

Update: Booster Dewey did indeed return my phone call today and he was very helpful. He said that the shell position has no impact on the performance of the booster, but that the "ears" should be facing up as in Kaber's photo. He also recommended that I source a vacuum booster from 1964-66 for any full-sized Buick, including Rivs, to go with the '67 Riv master cylinder because my booster probably was not rebuilt properly. He's also sending me that square O-ring thingie that Kaber suggested, and said to pay him later. So a big thanks Kaber and Dewey, as well as to Bob Embry for taking the time to write up his article detailing the conversion to dual m/cylinder. I'll let everyone know how things progress.

Can anyone else send me a pix of their '63 brake booster unit? Looking at the pix of mine further up in this thread and then the pix of Kaber's unit, the front half of the cover on my booster looks to have been installed upside down, if that's at all possible. I called Booster Dewey for an opinion but they already have a recording saying they're closed for the month of August. My concern is that if my booster setup (a unit installed by the PO) is not factory-correct or not assembled properly, could that have something to do with me losing a noticeable amount brake assist at higher speeds? I'm changing over to a dual master (thanks Kaber for the info) and I only want to do this brake job once. So calling all brake experts on this one - any input is appreciated! And Ed, I got the new p/w thanks to JZRiv and printed out Bob Embry's article.

It's all about the bolt removal and possible breakage, so heat and a gentle touch. If you need a good rebuilder, I've used "The Flying Dutchman" in OR. He does a high quality rebuild and knows his stuff. http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/

Thanks Kaber - very helpful. So it looks like you kept your original booster, or is that new too? I ask because if you compare the pix of mine in this thread to your pix, it appears as if the front half of the booster cover is upside down in mine - or maybe it makes no difference?

Hi Ed, Not yet, because the latest password I have from the last issue I received (May/June) doesn't work. I asked the office to send me the new one. Maybe you have it and can pm me?

Thanks, Kaber. Do you remember which one you did use or what the brand and part # is?

Can someone identify this master cylinder/booster setup as a Moraine or Bendix on my '63? I'd like to switch to a dual master cylinder/booster from a '67 Riv (drums/drums setup) and recall reading that I need to get the correct one. Any assistance appreciated!

Any San Diegans know of a good brake shop that does work on older cars, such as a '63 Riviera? Thanks/

White mats? I can't imagine but they must have been very cool! And a lot of $$ spent on Westley's Bleach-White! I'm definitely keeping my OEM mats, even if I have to wear Op Room medical booties so as not to wear them out any further. I cruise my Riv a minimum of 1x to 2x a week, usually 45 miles roundtrip to and from band rehearsal, late at night when San Diego traffic is non-existent, and I let her do her thing. Nothing better than a warm summer night by the glow of the ol' dashboard lights on a smooth state road. I just need a better stereo but that's OK - the engine note and exhaust burble is music to my ears just as well.

Picking up on this floor mat thread, here's a pix of what I believe to be an original 1963 driver's mat from my very original Riv, (save for a not-so-great repaint sometime in the early 1980s and new leather front seats that actually look pretty good). I took a pix because something didn't sit right with me with regard to the dimmer switch area in earlier pix on this thread. I fully understand that the "reproductions" are made to accommodate a wider range of years and models (which makes good business sense) but again, this is why I'd rather refurbish than replace items. Open to any and all comments - on the floor mats, that is.

Please look at http://www.wescoperformance.com/lap-belts-install.html for some detailed instructions. To be honest I think there were some dimple points, but I cannot be sure. The Wesco folks would know for sure. The key here is to make sure you use those large washers on the outside of the floor pan in all four anchor locations.

This pix might help as far as mounting locations. To be clear on my earlier post, I did not have to cut any upholstery.

Hi Don, As I recall I had no problem with having to make a slit in the upholstery when I installed lap belts on my now-sold '60 Electra sedan with a front bench. There was room enough to slip the end of the belt that bolts to the driveshaft tunnel just aft of the front seat. Make sure the belt halves with the releases are installed in the inboard positions.

(Floor mats are smaller and need trimming by the gas pedal) Why is it that when enterprises bother to tool up to make these reproductions, they don't sweat the details? Am I missing something? Is it a legal thing? Frankly I'm getting tired of repro parts that are billed as "exact reproductions" (not sure if that's the case here) only to find out that they are out of spec size-wise and quality-wise, typically cheap crap usually made in China. Rant over - back to refurbishing OEM parts best I can.

I don't agree with the sentence above - I've converted to Pertronix 1 (now 2) plus a 45,000-watt Pertronix coil in every classic car I've owned in recent years, even before filling up for the first time. To me the difference was immediately apparent and with no mods from stock - smoother running, starting, cleaner plugs, exhaust, etc. Yes, one may be SOL if the unit fails but from what I read, if properly installed that's a really low probability. And if it does, I have AAA Plus anyway!

Thank you Dan and everyone else for your advice. I snugged it up just a bit after marking the pump location-to-front bracket with my trusty yellow crayon, and that seems to have done the trick. Late Thursday nights is when I let her out of the barn to load up my gee-tars and head inland on a blissfully traffic-free road about 30 miles from the SD coast for band rehearsal. That will be the real test as I'm doing K-turns, waking the suburbanites with that trademark Riviera burbled exhaust as I waft the wonderful smell of the pre-emission era into their sleepy bedrooms and Prius-filled garages!

(I found out last week that my Reverb is not repairable. ) Weren't most GM reverb units similar across the brand divisions? I remember the one in my '67 GTO was just a tin box with a spring in it - pretty much the same setup as in my vintage Fender guitar amplifiers!

I'm no doctor, but that looks like it needs an an-jee-o-plas-tee! You should have that stuff analyzed! PS - Keep up the awesome job on Buick Bugle - I truly don't know how you make the time for all things Buick!

I should know this, but when the power steering system emits a loud screech, only on lock either right or left, should one tighten the belt up just a bit? Belt is new (Gates) and fluid is up to level. Is it normal to have to re-adjust (i.e. snug up the belt tension just a bit) after a couple hundred miles? I try to keep my belts not too tight because of water pump bearing wear, etc. And I know to back off the second I hear that screech, but lately I seem to be doing a lot of three-point turns!

Damn - I KNEW I should've saved those hen's teeth!

Seriously - that, folks, is an awesome level of knowledge and why the ROA is not only so rewarding but so cool! Kudos to Tom (even though yes, you might need to get out more)

Sent you a PM, Jim - thanks!

You just brought to mind Goodfellas and the trunk scene with the maroon Grand Prix, '69 I think but not sure...