FJD

JD Thanks for the quick reply, I thought it might fit more than one year. I do not think anybody would be interested in making repro pieces if it was that limited. Thanks Fred D

Mal Thank you for the pictures, I dug mine out last night to do the same thing. If mine looked that good I wouldn't have a problem. I still haven't figured out how mine got to be in such sad shape. I haven't looked yet but is the 41 -120 interchangeable with a 40-120? Also Mal, your restoration block was'/is most informative nad was a pleasure to read & follow your progress. Thanks again Fred D

Josef The water tube I am in need of is made of brass and fits inside of the block. I have located a NOS one with an small amount of corrosion on it. Max Merrit is in the process of having Repros, however the delivery schedule for them has slipped many times. Thank you for the reply as I am considering all options. Hopefully I can get you a picture of my unusable original. I will PM you a picture. Thank you Fred D

Does anybody on the forum know of a reproducer for the water distribution tube for a 1940-120 ? I talked with the fellas at Max Merritt at Hershey however their supplier did not get them to them. Also anybody have a good used or NOS distributor locking plate for the same auto? It is an Autolite Distributor. Thanks for any leads on these items. Fred D

Allow me if you will to insert my experiences with powdercoating. I have had several pieces powdercoated for my 1940 Packard. It has been my experience to have different metal pieces result in different % of luster. A cast piece, for example a front spindle, would turn out different than a heavy metal piece, example transmission cross member, and again light sheet metal, example the backing plates behind the brake backing plates, or even the battery box supports. All were done at the same time and using the same powder. This was also the work of a professional not the easy bake kind. All pieces were blasted, hi temp lab metal applied, baked to temp, sanded, and then powder applied. It is of my opinion powdercoat would provide an excellent base coat and then apply a wet coat that will remain consistent for a finish application. This procedure will also allow parts that may get small chips in the paint to also be touched up and also match the restored finish. I haven't given up yet getting the desired results, however it has become increasingly frustrating. If any readers have had similar experiences please post updates and results. Thank you Fred d

Hello all, I just checked my 1946 Wagner Catalog. It appears as if the Master cylinders are listed with 4 digit numbers after the FE. The master cylinder for that year Ford V8, Merc, Zephyr, etc is an FE 1050. Group # 29. As for the wheel cylinders the 39-40, for the "60" "85" Deluxe 85 & commercial car is listed as FD 4500 for the LF & FD4501 for the R F. & the LR is FD 4506 and the RR is FD4507. Hope this helps also in on the price section it doesn't even list prices for any of them. Fred D

Steve it was a fantastic time. The hotel was really nice and also close. Indoor flea market was filled to capacity. I am trying to post pics on Packard info.com. as soon as a resize them. Check that site often, as I think it will take some time to resize them. I hope next year it will continue to grow. It was a great idea moving it from the Fair Grounds. More to come later, I hope.

If you can send/post pictures it woud help. Where exactly are you located? If you could send info to me I would like to see it. Send info to F.Dietrich@att.net. Thank you

Hello all. I talked with the powdercoater today and he showed me two samples of different material, a machined steel piece and a thin gauge sheetmetal piece both brought up to temp and then coated. Using a clean gun and the same powder, results in the gloss had distinct differences in appearance. I guess if consistancy is not obtainable it appears as if I will go back to black paint with gloss reducer. It is disapointing but not fatal, just lost time and effort. Thanks for all of the advice.

HI Billybird I know what you are talking about theoretically if you use the same powder, brand & batch, same procedures there should be consistancy in the products. As I said I think there is more than one issue with the place that is doing the powdercoating. I will visit him again tomorrow and see if he has the issues straightened out, if not I have another source lined up in another town. I will see whathe can offer if I can't get the desired outcome. Oh yes and supposedly this powdercoater does bring the pieces up to temp and then applies the powder. Thanks everbody for the input. Happy New Year and good luck to all of the great forum people.

I didn't mean to steal this thread and probably should have started a new one. Thanks all for the replies. Even the powdercoater cannot reason why the different parts turn out differently, he believes that a powder with a burn out mixture will be the answer. He said that when the different materials are heated they reach the curing temp at different times and maybe over cured. I don't know. I also think that between parts batchs a error could have been made in the actual powder being used. Too much difference in gloss and color compatability. In addition to the paint VS powdercoat discussions , the DOD uses a powdercoat primer and then a CARC finish. Also the entire chassis had been blasted then painted with SW black with a gloss reducer. However this painter did a job upside down, the chassis portion where the body sits is nice and smooth however the bottom of the frame rails were never filled and is pock marked, along with arears that were void of paint. However that fellow went out of business shortly after the chassis was painted. I then got discusted and stalled the project. But that is another story. If powder coating all items isn't resolve shortly I willl go back and just repaint and get it finished. To ex98thdrill, powder coating will only fill in small voids, and therefore too much powder will also destroy detail marks in parts, casting numbers, part numbers etc. However I have had no problem with High Temp lab metal filling in deeper voids. It does however take time and effort as it must be cured at I believe 400 F prior to powdercoating. It also may shrink and may require 2 coats if not done properly the first time. To trimacar I had hoped to find it easier to work with a powdercoater for accomplishing the finishing of parts prior to reassembly, as it seems as if body shop painters are not that interested in small jobs, or in the case of the chassis as mentioned above. I done believe in the added benefits of clear coat either. Dizz I wish your guy was closer to me I would see him and find out if he could solve my issues. Thanks agin folks i will keep you popsted and hopefully has a positive outcome for theis and future projects..

I would like to receive any input concerning powdercoating on antique vehicles. I have had several parts powdercoated and have run in to several points of contention. If anyone can help, I would appreciate some experienced input. Several of my subcomponents are pieces of various materials, from thin formed sheetmetal pieces, heavy gauge metal parts and heavy cast pieces. I get quite a difference in the desired finish. I have had transmission brackets, battery box brackets, brake backing plates, lower steering arms, front stabilizer mounting brackets, spring shackles, all powder coated. Using I assume the same brand of powder and lot number. also it is quite a job to sand it in preparation for another coat. I find it quite frustrating as it seams as if the finish is different with each type of material. Some pieces appear clouded and slightly grayish. Some parts where do at different times and sometimes in a batch. All pieces have been blasted, supposedly preped and then powdercaoted. Pieces with rust pitting pock marks have been filled with the HIGH temp lab metal, sanded smooth, which by the way works quite well after neing finished according to instructions. Any one have an idea as to what might be wrong? I need to have consistency, the powdercoater is going to try an other supplier. Hopefully this is the solution to these issues. Also what would be the appropriate gloss percentage without being over glossy aka overrestored appearance. Thanks in advance for any help.

Good Morning I don't know if it helps or not but the 1946 Wagner catalog list 4 different part numbers for a 1937 Pontac P6 & P7. The left front is FD2941, the right front is FD2940,group 60, the left rear is FD4284, & the right rear is FD4285, group 68 For future ref the master cylinder is listed as FD4363. It aslo appears as if the FD4940 & FD4941 were used on certain Buicks for 36 & 37, & certain 1937 Cadillac, also Certain 1937, & 1940 Hudson, and the 1939-40 Ford Zephyr, also certain 1939 , 1940, & 1941 Packards.. Just for laughs the prices were $2.20 & $2.75. Good Luck Fred D

Thank you everyone i will check those places out next time I am there, hopefully in a few weeks. Thanks Agin for the responses. Fred D

Thanks for the reply I will try and get a number and give them a call. I get up this way a few times a year. And want to see something besides winers. Fred D

Anyone know of salvage yards with antique autos in the New York Finger Lake region?

HI Jim I just looked in my 1946 Wagner book and it says you 1937 P6 or P8 has a wagner # FD 4284 for the left & #FD 4285 for the righrt side. The fronts are # FD 2941 for the left & FD 2940 for the right. Alos if you need the Master cylinder assy is # FD 4363 the hose assy is FC 5433F and # FC4497R. Hope this helps Fred D Prices back then were $ 2.20 for the front and $ 2.75 for the rears. Believe it or not the 2940 & 2941 crooses over to a Packard for 1941, 1942 also Terraplane for 1937, 38. Do let on that it fits a Packard you will be charged more. LOL Good Luck Fred D

This supplier has buckles used by Uncle Sam maybe they can help www.bucklesinternational.com Buckles International, Inc. P.O. Box 747 Meriden, CT 06450-0747 U.S.A Phone: 877-BUCKLE-1 (877-282-5531) (203) 639-7844 Fax: 877-BUCKLE-2 (877-282-5532) (203) 639-7846 Good Luck

I agree the distributor is IGB 4071, more info is the distributor housing is IGB2204, the cap is IGB1031, distributor coupling is IG 447, the cam is IGB1032R, the shaft is IGB1205R, shaft bushing is IG579A, drive end bushing is MAB49A, the contact arm is IGB3664, contact point is IB 24, rotor arm IGB1002, condensor is IGB1025, and you ignition coil is IG4070. Hope this helps you out. I got the info from an old Chilton's manual. Fred D

Hello Bob I just had a 40 120 autolite distributor rebuilt by Kurt Hostetter at www.willysdistributors.com. in Vista CA. He also makes repro data plates for the distributor, generator, starter & voltage regulator and he will also stamp. His work is very good. Hope this helps. PM me for any more info.