FJD

Try giving Jed Rappaport, the carmaven. He should be able to provide one. Had one at Hershey. Fred D

When they are off and at the machine shot being brought to the correct or matching diameter is an excellent time to replace bearings and races. That is how I had mine done for a 1940-120. Good luck

Try Jed Rapaport. The carmaven he has numerous Red Bugs and Parts, he also has a few Briggs & Stratton. Fred D

One item overlooked is that when the drums are minus the powder coating, and turned down, all of the drums can be turned to the same safe diameter. which in reality they should be any way. Some powder coating also provides a great primer coat for painting, which can be touched up which difficult to touch up powder coating. good luck

Wouldn't it be nice to put them out to the hobby for FREE? Then after a certain time, get ride of them. Now what you do need will cost more. LOL

Oops Dave try this web page. www.auto-motives.com Jed's inventory changes all the time. I will also drop hima line and let him know about your request. Fred D.

Hello Lynn Have Bil give Jed Rapoport a call if you google carmaven you can get his info. I have one but I am not ready to sell it yet. Fred D

Try this one http://julrichpackard.com/ John is excellent to deal with. Good stuff good prices, good service. Fred D

Hello cutlasguy Keep up the great job of taking pictures at local car shows. I know many of the hard working folks in the Scranton Region AACA. They do a great job on the show as they have for many many years. Although I haven't been able to attend the show lately they have put together a show where all vehicles are welcome and so are the folks who show them and also to those in attendance. Keep up the good work Scranton Region AACA

Many years ago I took some parts to be painted in to a shop in SE. PA. I got charged for 8 hours work and he did nothing. Satisfaction Guaranteed. He told me he used the time to "chase the paint". He didn't even get me a paint code, but I did have to pay to get my parts back. I probably should have gone to a more reliable professional. LOL I must add that it wasn't any of the reputable restorers on this site or even a member of the organization.

I have also tried different finishes. The John Deere paint so far is excellent. Using the rattle cans didn't quite give the results I was looking for, but when thinned and sprayed the product looks great. I also had the parts blasted then powdercoated, then painted. Powder coating is difficult to touch up. PM me if you would like to discuss my reasons for my particular procedure. Fred D

MRCVS Where are you located? I have one if you are interested. PM me I am willing to talk Fred D

wow over 200 views no buyers

BTT

I have for sale an owners manual for a 1960 Valiant. I am looking for $ 15.00 or best offer. I would like to sell ASAP. Shipping will be additional. Please PM me with reasonable offer. Thanks Fred D

I have for sale a dealer folder printed in 1954 showing the Tbird. I am looking for $ 15.00 or best offer. I would like to sell ASAP. Shipping will be additional. Please PM me with reasonable offer. Thanks Fred D

Howdy all. I have no experience with the original topic. But have read it with great interest. If I may offer my experience. There is a product called Hi Temp lab metal. It needs to be cured prior to applying the powder coat, and if I may add it works quite well. Especially if the metal is clean and ready to go. As to paint over powder coating yes it can be done. I will not go into detail as to the pros & cons. I did that once, and some of the replies, cause me not to bring it up publicly again. however if anybody would like to PM me I will gladly relate my experiences with the requester. Fred D

Thank you for the reply. I will send you a PM. Your work is fantastic. Also thank you for your photos and updating the progress.

Fantastic job. I have a 40-120 4 door and have been reading this topic with interest. I have a few questions if you would be so kind as to address them. Would you be so kind as to post pictures of the clutch - brake assembly attached to the frame and transmission. Did you have to replace the shaft that the clutch and brake pedal rotate on? If you did may I ask where you got it. Keep up the great job. Thanks Fred D.

Matt I do not want to steal or hijack this thread. I personally called you a long time ago and we discussed your project. As for my own experience the fellow that did my powder coating however has had produced different results while doing different materials at the same time. I agree different batches will produce different results. And yes surface prep is also critical. I just offered Tom my experience on my project. Hopefully Tom receives the information he is inquiring about. Thank you for your reply. I will not offer any more on this particular thread.

Tom I am also considering the same procedure and hope you get an accurate answer. In addition to powder coating I am getting prepared to apply a wet overcoat to my powder coated surfaces. I am overcoating the pieces because the powdercoat turns out with different finishes/gloss when applied to different metal composition. For example heavy/thick formed pieces, sheet metal panels, and cast parts. Soon I hope to start coating some powder coated pieces with the John Deere Semi Gloss. It has been recommended as being durable, strong, and easy to work with. I will see, I hope soon. I was going to try another brand that needed to have a gloss reducer mixed, but I got inconsistant finishes. Good Luck Fred D

Hello Bob If I may comment here I to asked this question of many people. My 1940 chassis was painted using Sherwin Williams ALKYLYD Black my satisfaction was less than I expected and stalled the project for a long time. Too glossy and poor preparation of the rusted areas.. I have tried ALK 200 with flattening powder I haven't quite got formula/gloss I was looking for. I have received several replies to use John Deere semi black. I have used this on several misc. parts I used the rattle can method and found the gloss level to be somewhat close to what I had hoped for. However it seems as if the rattle can method was a thinner coat than hoped for and produced many runs and sometimes not a uniform finish. My next venture is to use the John Deere brank using the compressor/spray gun effort. I also have had all of the dismantled parts blasted, and powder coated a commercial black finish however: The same powder coat had different gloss appearance on different metals. EG. Cast Iron, formed heavy steel and formed thin gage metal. Also if the powder coating chips it is difficult to fix, that is when I decided to apply a wet coat for uniformity. Hopefully this time I will have the success I am looking for. On a side note it was quite a project getting my running board blasted, repaired and powder coated. That is a story for another time. They need to be prepped to send to Hunley Acuff. Hope my experience has helped you out. Fred D

Hello JPRIMO I am going to send you a PM> Thanks

Hello Do you have any 20 X 2 bike tires made in the USA? Any Packard Stuff? Thanks Fred D

I just came across this post and have a question. Your original post states your charge is $40.00 & includes shipping , however the we page for the link states $ 59.95 plus return shipping. I have a Packard clock and gauges I will be having restored. Which is correct? thanks FredD