nickelroadster

1915 model 42 roadster. Just about to turn 10,000.

Chris, I have two suggestions for you. Purolator used to make an adjustable regulator that could be adjusted from 0 to 5lbs. Donald Mckinsy (look under spark plugs) used to sell them but I don't know if he has any more of them. If that doesn't work, than go to NAPA and ask for a nfp p60504 fuel pump. This is a 12 volt pump that is rated from two to four lbs. It also works at six volts which gives it half the pressure. One to two lbs may be low enough for your carburator.

I was interested in a Delco-Remy. Sorry. If you try to post picturese make sure the picture is email size or it won't work.

I would like to know what type of distributor is this. How about some pictures and a part number.

I am not aware of any high temp filler, especially on the exhaust manifolds. You might try one of the various products that they make to repair mufflers with that you can find at your local auto parts store. These products don't work very well for that but you may be able to find that they may fill somepits ok. Brazing them might also work. Solder might work on the intake but the exhaust would be too hot.

Well Dizzy, I can sympathize with your thoughts and mine were not too kind either, but due to the fact that the items were bought from an individual there really is not a lot I can do abut it. It did seem like he waited for my check to clear before he sent the clamps. I suspect that he comes on this sight quite a bit. I would still like to know what these monsters were used on.

Well Dave, you can't post names or places as that would be a negative post and the moderators would not like that. It was no place that I had any kind of protection.

Most of us have bought something or another from a private party or very small business from a distance. Whenever you do this there is always a certain amount of trust that is needed on both sides of the transaction. If you do this very often you usually end up with a variety of different experiences that range from the really good to the really bad. Most of the ones I have been involved in have ended up positively not all. One of the most common complaints is that the item is not what it's advertised as. I recently had one of these. I answered an ad for six Sherman hose clamps that were claimed to fit 2&1/2" hose. Sherman clamps were used mostly in th eteens and are becoming a little hard to find these days. They were advertised for 85$ plus postage. That sounded like a good deal as they retail for 32$ to 40$ dollars a piece.So I bought them. Unfortunately when I recieved them, they were way to large a size being 3&9/16" ID. Ones to fit a 2&1/2" hose should have been more like 2&7/8" ID. I can't really think of a vehicle that could use them. Maybe a locomotive or a fir engine? Or I could build a 2X scale car. I communicated back with the seller that they were not what was advertised and that I would like to return them. The seller denied any sort of deception and claime I should have known what I was getting. I even offered to absorb all the shipping but he still wasn't interested in taking them back. He said that if he took them back then he would just have to resell them and I could do that as easy as he could. So, was I decieved? Yes, I think so. It appeared to me to be a bit of a bait and switch. Was I swindled or scammed? Probaly not. 85$ is an ok price for the items in question. The question remains of what to do with them as I do not really want to sell them to someone else like he sold them to me. Does anyone have any idea of what these monsters were used on? I am a little curious about that now. So thats just another experience buying and selling car parts from a distance. Mildly irritating but nothing to get very upset about. I will probably continue to mostly trust other people unless they are really suspicious acting. I assume I will continue to have a variety of different experiences in these transactions but I actually think it is more fun to scrounge parts like this than to buy from a larger retailer. I still would like to know what these things were used on.

Your generator is supposed to turn when you have the ignition on. This allows the gears to mesh when you push the starter. If it didn't, the gears would only mesh some of the time. It is called "motoring the generator and is perfectly normal for this type of starter. It's actually the generator wiring, not the starter wiring that does this.

Use a piece of cotton cord about 3/16" thick and wrap it around the slot in the windshield gasket. You can then set the lower part of the gasket slot on the lower frame. When you pull the cord from the inside of the car, it will pull the lip of the rubber past the windshield frame and seat it all around. It helps to have two people to do it and you might have to try it a couple of times until you get the right touch. Another helpful item that you can find at a parts store is a 6" to 8" suction cup that can be attached to the windshield to make handling it a little less awkward.

I have an instruction manual fro a model 45b which shows a carburetor substantially the same as a 45a. The instructions do not say anything about setting a float level but here are 4pages that show a diagram and what instructions that are there. You should start out by setting the level about 1/16" to 1/8" below the heighth of the nozzles (#4 and #11 in the diagram). If you set it higher it will just leak out and if you set it too low the air stream will not be able to pick it up.

Shellac won't work! Superglue will work. Try and get the thin stuff so it won't add weight to the float. Gas tank sealer doesn't like to adhere to cork in my experience. You can also use fuel proof model airplane dope from a hobbyshop. When setting a float level, try and set it where th e fuel level is from 1/16" to 1/8" below the top of the main nozzle.

I have a whole cowl light with lense if you are interested. I also need a clock but I believe That the guts are the same on a whole range of Waltham clocks. You just need to find one with the proper winding stem length and then have it refaced. I have a locke bodied five passenger sedan. Send me a pm.

I concurr with Tinindian on using ash or oak. An article from some years ago, I believe from Skinned Knuckles, had an experience with buying a car that had had wheels redone using oak. He hit a bump and the spokes broke. Hickory is the preferred wood because it is durable but has enough give and springyness to last on the wheels.

You should be able to find the brass serial number plate on the right hand side underneath the seat cushion. These have been known to disappear.

Sure sounds like you have some old style pre alcohol type of gas tank sealant. I would tear the tank and fuel line out of the car and completely strip that old sealant out before your newly cleaned carburetor needs to be done again. Modern gas tank sealers are now formulated for alcohol whereas 15 or 20 years ago they were not.

The problem with trying to preserve the varnish that is on the wood right now is that it is pretty well cratered if it is loosing it's adhesion. Anything that you put over the top would probably just want to come off with the old paint. If you are going to do anything to it at all you might as well go ahead and strip it properly and refinish it. Using sandpaper to do this is a little iffy because you would be taking some of the wood off as well as the varnish. Treat it like a piece of furniture and strip it properly with a chemical stripper. Spar varnish will work but is nowhere as durable as using a more modern urethane coating. Off course it is easier to use a spar varnish as you could put it on with a brush. Remember that any half measures may make it look worse than it does now and just add further work to refinishing it in the future. I would lean towards either going all the way or just leaving it like it is and trying to be careful with it.

You need to familiarize yourself with spraying with a gun. Hiopefully it is a small touchup type. A fullsize spraygun is kind of over kill with an engine. If you call Bill Hirsch, he can give you the proper amount to thin the paint and what you should use as thinner. A quart of paint is way plenty to paint an engine and should give you enough to do a little practicing before you paint the engine. Make sure that you wipe the area to be painted with a degreaser or alchol to make absolutely sure there is no contamination on th engine. Take your time.

Sorry I didn't give you that at first but I had misplaced his card. Let me spell his name right too. It's Russ Furstnow and the number is 928-526-1343. Very reasonble prices and his books are really good resources.

The 16 tooth gear is the most common gear used on the Stewart speedometer. Any place that sells any speedometer parts should have them. One place is Russ Frustow, 3545 W. Kiltie Loop, Flagstaff AZ 86001. This gentleman has also self published a couple of books on speedometers that will tell you almost anything you need to know.

If you are determined to make your own, then just go to NAPA and tell them what you will be using the gaskets for. They have material for exhaust manifolds that is fairly inexpensive.

If you can't find one that will fit then you mayhave to get a custom one made. A place you might try is Kepich Exhaust at 1121 Homestead Blvd #272, Lehigh Acres FL 33936. Tel 239-267-2550. They custom made one about mthat size for $200. They actually made one the wrong size at first but had no problem correcting their mistake. Many times the best judgement of a vender is how they handle mistakes.

I suspect that they used a heavy weight water proof kraft paper. If you painted it, I would use clear laquer instead of paint with a color. The ones that I have seen use paper that is about twice as thick as what is used in brown paper bags.

Here is the rest of the shock artcles. The article concerns mostly th esingle action type but the dual action is constructed the way and the repair is about the same with just a few more parts. Incidentally , my shocks were not the same as the ones the author used (I think he deals mostly in Sudabakers) But constuction is the same. I don't think it is necessary to replace many of the shafts. The shafts can be polished and smoothed and they also make seal and sleeve kits where you could slide a new sleeve over the end to provide a new surface. This shouldn't be any problem as these modern seals are designed for high rpm and not just the back and forth of a shock. I didn't use the old style leather seals, I used modern rubber seals. Another area where I differed from the author was the ring which holds the seal in place (all shocks may not have these) He speaks of cutting his to remove them, whereas I just drove mine off and reused them. If you can't find seals that will press fit into the housing, then you can just silicone them in. I also had to trim the ends off of my 1/4" thick seals to get them to fit better. I replaced all my welsh plugs and all the fibre gaskets. The gaskets can be sourced from plumbing supplies or from Restoration Supply in California. This is a fun project that is not too hard to do and can save the $100 to $200 per shock that it would cost to have someone else to rebuild them. Good luck!

Am finally able to post scans. Hope they are readable. Please note that page two is out of order. This is actually a three part series but I have put it alll here.