D-a-n-i-e-l

GPGTX2000, Use Ryan, he knows what he is doing and is alot cheaper than going to a full tune shop. He only cost me like $100 vs $500+ at a tune shop. I am happy with the job he did on mine. Alos if you are not using the injector off the L67 switch to them, befor the tunning. With the access to all the ifo threw the touch screen you do not even have to have a high end diagnostic machine.

This weekend did not go as planned. I will try to get my 2 cents in later this week

did you turn it on. Not trying to be funny, I actually thought I had an issue once and all that was wrong was I forgot to hit the power button.

So did you piggyback an other ecm or reprogram the original?

I have time this weekend, so expect mine on sunday

Both are stereo. I will do an other write up. this time including both inputs. I will do it this weekend if the rain breaks.

It will look fine. You can even get the other aux plug and not have to unplug your tape deck, or use it for an other input. I use mine for a DVD player, with a 7" screen mounted where the old tape deck went.

Check your tranny fluid level and then I would replace the O2 sensor, if it has not been done in a while.

anything could fit. If you have time and/or money

metric, found out when I swaped to the 91 set up

The exsisting brain works fine, but if you like better sound look for one out of a 95 caddy with the built in amp. Unless you are going to install aftermarket amps. If you are going to use a aftermarket solution from Kenwood move up to the KOS500 or 1000. Little more money but you will be thankfull you did. What is your goal for the system?

Get the LC6 from auidio control. This is the most effctive aftermarket option

This should be a good starting point. It shows all the points where I had issues and some very good corrections for them. Also it will give you a start point for the new series swap. To use the newer trany I would look for a 91' to do your swap. this will prevent you having to add a sencond ECM. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/series-one-swap-240868.html

Sorry did not read into it that far, but you are right.

Already have it tuned. I was speaking of those who add all these go fast parts and never tell the computer how to use them.

I already did the tranny swap. get the wire harness and the ECM/PCM from the doner car. Then I will try to get you the Schematics and splices I had to do. This is the best way I could figure out to do the swap. You will get code thrown from the stock ECM, but you can turn them off durring tuning. if you really wanted to get fancy you could even install the ALDI conector to the new PCM and be able to pull codes from the tranny.

More air helps a bit, but if the ECM is not reconfigured the use of the air remains pretty much stock. I see this on many little honda and other such "tuner" cars. Spend $500 expecting 50hp, but they never change the fuel maps, and on see minimal increases. Also the LN3 is limitted internally by valves and the small throtle body inlet.

Check your power steering fluid.

uhm? did you not see the solution? By doing ths you only see the warming one time after the car has been started. A lot better than every time you accelerate or brake.

I am working on the write up. I just have not have the time to get the wiring for the abs sorted back out from schematics. Also I am sure the wire colors changed year to year. This means I will have to do the write up usin wire names and pin numbers, and not just the colors. The other thing I have not got into yet is the ABS light. I am sure I can make it work I just have not had the time to dig into it.

I would imagine the exhaust is the worst factor for the stock reatta engine. Just two cents.

They should have been recalled. The reason they were not recalled is that the system was not put in enough cars. GM would rather take the risk of some one suing rather than replace or repair the car. Simple economics. Also with the systems being near 20 years old they can now just blaim it on age and lack of maintenace. I have had the brake issues twice now. The first time may have been the lack of maintence or time. The second time it was niether. It is a dangerous system and when it goes out even me at 205 and in great shape has a very hard time stoping the vehicle.

I just addes a time delay drop out to the circuit. This allows the circuit to trigger but not until the fluid is been low for a set amount of time. I use 20 seconds. This allows the warning to work, but insures it is really low and not at the sloshing point. It did cost about $20 dollars to do.

Unfortunately the pump on the SC engine has one little year that requires the removal of one of the brackets, so it takes an extra hour or so.

I just went through this. Although it was the SC engine. Check the water pump for play. The stock 3800 uses the same pump. My pump was only a year old and had about 10k on it. Good thing for warrenties. Even know it is a warrentied POS.