D-a-n-i-e-l

Let's start with the reason you swapped the packs. Code E048. I do not believe any one has verified that the new packs have the same sensing as the old ones. This means there is no way to know if the pack will throw a code in our computers. Now for the code being misfire. Did you replace the wires? plugs? If not I would start there. ($50 is well worth it and if it has not been done in a while it can not hurt) I think if you update the wires your issue may go away. The old coil pack is not as strong as the newer ones. This means to me that if you did have a leakage current on the old one the new one most likey finished it off.

Yes I used the full assembly from the 96 sts in the rear and the full 2000 assembly from the camaro. In the front.

I have not tried to use the Reatta bracket do to the possible difference in depth ext while using the other components. If people have used them with no issues then go for it, but being the first to use the caddy brakes I did not want to chance missing a measurement.

You must use the donor mounts

go with the 1996 STS rear brakes. they fith with no modification at all and you get to keep the parking brake. the only extra step you have over a normal brake job is replacing the brake cables (just the two in the rear). Oh and they still fit under a 15" wheel and no making of new brackets. Here http://forums.aaca.org/f116/bolt-brake-rattle-solution-upgrade-304512.html

One other thing, if you have not you are going to want to disconnect the strut from the knuckel. It will make your life easier but also means that you will need an wheel alignment. You could also drop the lower ball joint but few people can do this without damaging the balljoint boot.

Use a screw driver and pry the old seal out. Be careful not to scrape the sides where the seal sits. The seals are fairly cheap, lke 5 bucks, and available almost every where. when you go to put it in use a large socket or seal setter if you can find one that fits. It is worth the money to buy an axle socket that fits the seal to tap it back on. It will save you alot of cussing and fighting with the seal popping out when one side is almost in.

Sound lime a good time to throw on the 96automated caddy brakes.

They were not a stock option on the Reatta. Some one probably put the air shocks off a Riviera on and adapted them. But to answer your question 0/none. they are designed to adjust ride hieght when the trunk is loaded. if you do put air in them just enough to level the car.

There is a company out there that will recover them, but it is pricey like $1200 ish. That is if that is the issue.

There are not too many like this one. Buick : Reatta Buick : Reatta | eBay

Iif anyone has them for a decent price. I need both left and right hub spindles and the engine harness for a 89, but the 88 harness would also work. I do not need the bearing gs with the spindles. I am pretty sure that the spindle will fit in a usps flare rate box as that will be the cheapest way to ship them to HI zip 96789. If you have the parts please pm me or post a price here for them. Also a methods of payment will be helpful. Daniel

that will deliver more fuel, does not mean more power, you are looking for a good fuel air mixture for more power.

go with a jig saw, and use mdf board.

O2, even without a code they can cause many symtoms.

I would start with the intake. I think (have not tested/checked) that the later manifolds (up to 94) would improve intake air by a lot. Second you need to free up the exhaust a little bit. After that you could get a chip done that might get your 20hp

The Tranny come from an 2006other Pontiac g6 gt. I still want to find a sub frame to do all the mock up . I really do not want a lot of down time while doing this project. Other than that the only parts a am missing are the clutch and cf shafts. The later I have to wait on to the mock up to be in place. Surprisingly I found two places here on the island that said they can make the shafts. All in all I hope to complete the swap before june.

I will post one once I complete my swap. I may even sell adapters to mount the engine if there is enough interest.

Just to throw it out there. The series two can be controlled by the own computer with some retuning and swapping a few sensors. I am getting ready to swap in a series 3 (while still using the own computer). I would suggest by the questions you are asking, that you do the series 1 swap. Also either way you go I would stick with the oem computer so you do not lose the on board diagnostics. (You get to them by holding warm and off in the climate area) Thought I would throw it out there as alot of people donor know it it there.

he said they cut the nubs off and it dropped it two inches

Heated the front coils and just cut the rear spring. Not the best way to do it. But he said they dropped about 2 it inches.

Just a suggestion. Get a pump out of a 9390 s10 blazer with the 4.3 bin code w. It will work with the stock setup and has the correct pressure for the supercharged set up. Plusses it is a direct fit.

As long as you stay 4out ohm and above you should not have any issue.

thought I would add this for you. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/supercharging-time-its-real-211872.html

Bump just because all forgot thr trials he went throught doing it.