68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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The chrome trim is fastened to the glass using rubber glass setting tape which is available at most glass installers locations.
It wraps around the edge of the glass and the chrome channel is press fitted to the front edge of the quarter glass - any access tape protruding beyond the edge of the trim piece can be trimmed off using a sharp bladed knife. Not sure how the quarter window is fastened to the bracket in first generation Rivs, but someone will likely chime in !
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Glad your mobile Marty, and a small victory is still a victory.
Do yourself a big favour and get a `68 Buick Chassis Service Manual, it is the `Bible` for your car, and will answer a lot of questions you haven`t even thought of asking yet !
They are available in hard copy, or CD format from various sources. A `68 Body by Fisher Service Manual, and a `68 Buick Chassis and Body Parts Book are also excellent reference sources, and cover just about everything you may want to know about your `68 Riviera !
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Glad you got it sorted out Stu !
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Some great shots in this cool video Tony - thanks for sharing !!
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Hi Marty - Just my humble opinion;
If you trust the advise of your supplier, and it gets you mobile, then go for it - he's probably more knowledgeable in swapping out ignition parts than you or me.
The correct '68 switch is a one year only part - (Grp. 2.189 # 1116698), as '69s had the switch located in the steering column, so the '67 without the buzzer may work OK?
If it doesn't work, just make sure you can return the '67 switch for a full refund on the two switches.
I never liked the buzzer feature of the '68 switch, which served as a reminder that you had left your keys in the ignition when you turned the engine off, to prevent locking your keys in the car. I disconnected the buzzer, which was very annoying, and don't miss this '68 feature at all !
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1 AUD = .75 USD and you can do the calculation, almost the same as the difference between 1 USD and CNDN currency !
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Might be a faulty pressure switch on the brake line distribution block Stu, we'll see what others have to say.
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Very nice looking Riviera, but I'm partial to gray !
Don't like the way those rear resonators are hanging too low at the rear.
They should tuck up right inside the rear 1/4 panel with only the down turned exhaust outlets exposed below the bumper.
It does not have a stock mufflers, and there is no 'posi' tag on the rear differential ?
Could it be a 'tribute' GS, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
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Bill, your story and pictures bring back fond memories of an early ROA annual meet that was shared with the BCA in Flint, MI
The Buick plant was still operational back then and we got an excellent plant tour and saw exactly what was involved in assembling a finished car.
It was also neat to see all the ROA Riviera, of various ages, parked in front of the main plant where many of them were originally built.
A fantastic tour of the Sloan Museum was also included showing the history of GM over the years.
Buick City is an important part of Buick's history that will live on for a long time to come !
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Possible that the 00 paint code could be used for Riviera that were non-exclusive Riviera colours ?
Where's that Darwin guy when you need him ?
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Only know that there is no 'O' paint code for the '68 cars?, and Code B is Midnight Teal Metallic as you stated.
Code C - Artic White is the only white listed for '68 cars, but it was not used on Riviera.
The Midnight Teal Metallic (...Code B) is an exclusive Riviera colour !
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Hey Ryan - welcome to the Riviera ROA group on the AACA forum.
You might also try your request on www.v8buick.com in the parts wanted section.
It's free to join the forum, and there are quite a few Riviera members on that site.
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That was not a factory option Marty, and was probably added or removed by previous owners.
Positraction rear end was an option on all '68s. The GS cars came equipped with a 3.42 posi (...axle code PY), which was part of the 'A9' option, or you could also order a 3.42 posi (...code PY), on any '68, or the 3.07 posi (... code PY), which is much more common, or the very rare 3.91 posi (... code PZ).
All this, and lots of other info on '68s is available in the '68 Buick Chassis Service Manual, if you don't have one, it would be an ideal first purchase for the car. They are available in printed hard copy, or CD format - it is the 'Bible' for your Riviera, and contains a wealth of information, and answers to questions you haven't even thought of asking yet !!
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. . . .in addition - The GS fender badging should follow the letters R-I[V-I-E-R-A on both left and right lower front fenders.
There are other ways to identify a GS Marty, but most of those options were available on any Riviera,
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I'll wait till you get some pics up Marty - the correct '68 fender badging would have had 3 holes for 3 mounting pins and are thinner then the fender letters.
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Riviera Marty !!
Assuming it is the correct lock cylinder, and a correct '68 ignition switch, you should be able to rotate the key and lock cylinder to the various positions. Left for accessories, straight up for the lock position, (...so the key can be removed), and to the right for run and start positions. You can also remove the old lock cylinder housing from the dash to ensure the lock cylinder is working as it should, by removing the notched, threaded ring around the housing, (...which requires a special wrench), and removing the plastic ignition switch bezel, which is secured by a single screw in the top of the plastic bezel.
A local lock smith might also be able to solve your dilemma for a nominal fee.
There are no identifying letters on the Fisher Body tag that would identify a real GS - the only way to confirm a real GS is by the dealer order/invoice info, or the Buick window sticker that was affixed to a new car. A lot of the 'A9' GS options were also available
on non-GS models. The subject is well covered on the ROA website, and in previous questions on this forum.
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. . . you might get some replies if you delete your extra posts (2) !
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No repros are available, so your only source is 'good used' from a parts car, or any 2nd generation Riviera - if you can find one,
Riviera was just not as popular as a Camero, or a Chevelle, so the market for reproduction parts is somewhat limited.
That's all part of the challenge of restoring a Riviera of any generation ! LOL
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Thanks for sharing Rocky - that 'super fast' gold '69 is owned by a member of v8buick, and he is ROA member #7453.
Yardley has a website with all the mods to the '69 covered - great info for 2nd generation owners.
Here's a link to Yardley's Riviera Restoration - www.1badriv.com
. . . enjoy
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Amazed at the amount of product they have available - excellent source Bob, thanks for the link !
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. . . notorious to all 2nd generation Riviera Jason !
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Hood OFF - gives you wide open access to the engine compartment. Mark the hood hinge positions to line it up on assembly.
Place a couple of 2x4s at the rear to protect the windshield, and have a second helper to lift it off the car - they are awkward to handle and heavy. You might want to consider pulling the engine with the transmission attached as a unit - that way you have total access to everything for a complete dress up !
The long centre bolts on the manifolds are lower than the A frames so there is no clearance without raising, or removing the engine.
Hope you have a heat source (torches) for the manifold bolt removal process, as they can be a royal 'PITA' !!
It's the type of job I have procrastinated on for about 3 years now, but I did get some replacement stock manifolds.
. . . good luck, and keep us posted Bill.
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The condenser on the regulator is only intended as a 'static' RF noise reducer for the radio.
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They were originally argent silver, (...Krylon Dull Alluminum #1403 is as close as you can get), or for a mild custom look you can paint them black, as pictured above - the black paint highlights the chrome front faces of the horizontal grill bars, and makes them 'float' in the opening. They were painted 'argent silver' from the factory.
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Window fell out of base bracket
in Buick Riviera
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The inner channel is prone to rusting because it is plain, untreated steel - the rubber setting tape should seal it to prevent moisture penetration !
The rubber window seal strip can be secured with a bead of clear silicone to reduce or prevent moisture penetration against the other side of the untreated bare steel channel.