Jump to content

68RIVGS

Members
  • Posts

    1,238
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 68RIVGS

  1. On ‎10‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 9:58 AM, NCRiviera said:

    I pulled out the instrument cluster (an major exercise in frustrations, by the way) and placed LED bulbs above the speedo, in the turn signal indicators, the high beam indicator and the HVAC controls. I left the fuel and temperature lights incandescant. Unfortunately the fuel and temp light bulbs are not lighting up, so I am going to have to tear the console apart again to replace those two bulbs with LED's. I will post pictures of the instrument cluster soon.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    . . . sounds like a 'make work' project to me, and a real P.I.T.A. job to boot !! LOL

  2. Not sure where the OP (...39mm), is located,  but some of the European halogen headlamp systems do have removable/replaceable halogen type bulbs.

    My 'NA 08 GMC PU uses different sizes of halogen bulbs for the lighting system.

    Normally you can remove and replace a 'sealed beam' type lamp without removing that tension spring, which prevents the headlamp unit from vibrating  inside the pot.

  3.  

    Quote

     

    3 hours ago, NCRiviera said:

    I paid $192 with shipping and I ordered from Mustang Project thru Amazon because the shipping was cheaper than thru their website. As I said before the flickering is enhanced in my video due to recording frame rate. It's not as bad as it seems. 

    Looks very neat Mike - got that Cougar look !

    like Jason, something I also thought about for my '68. I did replace the centre sockets, which were parking lamps only, so I have full brake/signal lights across the rear lamps.

    Might just leave it at that. 

  4. 1 hour ago, telriv said:

    Just a question. How come, even though I've gone to meets in Pa. are there no pics of my '64??? I've been to 3 events??? I think in Pa. 2 for sure in 2000 & I was at the 2010 meet & went on to Hershey & still no pics??? I guess my Riv doesn't deserve a photo???

    Tom I recall seeing pictures for 2010 (...taken by Jayson Z.), and your Silver '64 Riviera , along with your ROA entry form was posted on the ROA sight ?

  5. Scarce items to say the least, and here Pat has a complete matched '69 Buick set !

    Not very often you find these rare showroom, dealer binders available as a matched pair.

    If they were '68 - I'd jump all over them !

    Hope they find a nice home Pat !

  6. Very nice looking  '69 Pat, and that antenna appears to be almost flush to the fender top +/- 1" to 2" !

    Makes me think my replacement mast was for a different model year power antenna, or maybe a GM universal  'one- size- fits- all',  as it protrudes 4"-5" when fully retracted ?

    I'll have to check my 'spares' and compare - now where did I put those ?

    • Like 1
  7.  . . . sound like yours is not fully extending Mike !

    My '68 PA is  about 4-5" retracted and extends to 48" above the largest mast section which protrudes above the chrome plated, fender power antenna escutcheon

    I replaced the original mast with a supposedly correct NOS power antenna mast unit ( ...Grp.9.647 # 1382743) purchased at an early ROA meet in Denver, CO.

    The original mast section was severely bent and required replacing when I refurbished the power antenna.

    The  thumping, or clunking you hear is the adjustable slip clutch slipping when the antenna reaches minimum or maximum travel.

     Power Antenna are covered in the '68 Buick Shop Manual, and I wrote two refurb write ups for very early issues of the Riview. 

    All  2nd generation Riviera have the same power antenna, as Jason stated.

    • Like 1
  8. Your two tone concept was one I thought about for my Riviera Mike,  but with the darker color on top and a lighter bottom color, without a vinyl roof.

    The 2nd generation body style is a very neat design that can lend itself to many subtle two tone color combinations.

    The uncluttered version is also my preference too, but I also prefer the original Buick chrome road wheels!

    Red lines are great too, but those after market, 'classic' wheels just don't suit the car, unless your after the 'Hot Wheels' look (imho).

     

     . . . below: The sun provided the two tone here, but you can visualize the end result !

     

    595e7478799fb_FinalHazeldeanCruiseNite05.jpg.d1cf0cec32e4097e480f0fda202088d3.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  9. 10 hours ago, offdensen said:

    Should only be 4 bolts or so that hold the cover on. No prep works needs to be done before removing it, just take it off and get a flashlight. 

     

    Is that a 3rd gen rivi?

     

    . . . looks like a 'used' 2nd generation Riviera, and they all leak a little oil from the rear seal.

    As long as it is not too severe - just keep driving it !

    • Like 1
  10. 4 hours ago, PullmeoverRED said:

    Hi there! I want to attempt to try to resolve my window issue without going to a professional. 

     

    The problem: I was out the other day and at the end of the night when it was time to drive home I couldn't put my driver side pw. In fact none of windows controlled by the driver side switch (that controls all 4 windows) worked. Individually all other 3 windows work properly. Could you please help me in pointing me in the right direction to determine where the problem is?

    . . . sure sounds like the harness connection to the master switch is loose or separated from the switch as others have stated.

    Check for +12V DC on the main power feed wire going to the master switch - as it could be a broken power feed wire in the harness where it fits inside the rubber door jamb sleeve too? They do get brittle with age, and are subject to breaking with the constant flexing from the opening and closing of the driver's door.

  11. Pretty amazing what you will find in these old molested Rivieras that ain't factory Mike.

    On the upside you now know how your windows are wired and they will work one at a time !

    Keep that old PW relay as a spare, it was probably working OK, before that added fuse blew. 

  12. Glad you were able to close them by hot-wiring the PW switch Mike !

    Might also be a good idea to double check the door wiring harness in the rubber sleeve between the front of the door and the door pillar.

    Age, and constant flexing in the same spot over the years, with the opening and closing of the doors (...in particular the driver's door), will cause some of the wires in the harness to break. If the large red +12V DC wire is broken your master switch will not raise, or lower the windows ?

     

  13. Those wheel covers were doomed right from the design and manufacturing stage - combining unprotected steel parts with stainless in the wheel covers did not ensure any long term reliability ! Might last a little longer in the southern , or mid west areas, but in the snow belt where they use road salt to melt winter ice, it was only a matter of time and exposure to achieve the results you have shown via your pictures. As 60FlatTop stated - " That wheel cover is toast" !

    The easiest fix is to replace the rusted out ones with better condition, good used covers, or switch to chrome road wheels which are not period correct.

    They were not designed to last forever, just like us, and most of the consumer products we use today ! 

    • Like 1
  14. On ‎02‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 6:10 PM, NCRiviera said:

    Our new baby. An original Aqua Mist w/ black top and black deluxe interior. It was recently repainted the original color.

    Power windows, power drum brakes, AC (works), but no power locks! IMG_3918.thumb.JPG.277a8c2e1c14cd7bf7499e6e11822f96.JPG

    IMG_3921.thumb.JPG.88e68c9a174162f5f73f328beae1e745.JPG

    A very nice looking '68 Riviera Mike !

    As Jason stated the power locks were vacuum operated, like other accessories - be glad you don't have them - they are a P.I.T.A. with miles of color coded rubber hoses and hardware.

    If you check out my Riv pics (...on page 1 #17) there is one another option that really dresses up these cars - there were shiny stainless steel inserts between the lower body side moldings and rocker panel. Option W5 - Custom Bright Exterior Moulding that cost all of $47.10 way back in '68 !

    Post some interior and engine pics when you get a chance - maybe after most of your new/old car problems are handled.

×
×
  • Create New...