68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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Could be as simple as a split vacuum hose end somewhere in the system, a leaking manifold distribution block on the lower firewall, or a faulty vacuum component somewhere in the headlight vacuum system. That also includes leaks in the vacuum trunk release, vacuum door lock system, and possibly the cruise control too !
Cleaning and lubricating the pivot points in the headlight pods may also help? All the vacuum systems in '68/'69 Riviera are a real "PITA" to trouble shoot, and will cause premature greying of the hair, if your fortunate enough to still have hair, in addition to various explicatives you will randomly need to use !!
The systems are well documented n the Shop Manual, and luckily, new repro components are available from Corvette suppliers for some of the vacuum components in the Riviera headlight system.
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. . . as rare as it is, someone had to have it, and it might as well be you Paul !
It will probably cost yah quite a few 'honeydews' in addition to the purchase price though? LOL
Enjoy that shiny new face - you could always sell your original and recoup part of the expense.
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No apology needed Randall, and thank you for the clarification Jason.
Beast wishes to y'all for the holiday season eh !!
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Same electric antenna Paul, even accommodates the Riviera fender bezel - depends how deep your pockets are !
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7 hours ago, mach1 said:
After cleaning the plug to the antenna the motor now works but the base of the antenna comes out of the guard.
I have jammed it back in and left the antenna unpluged with antenna in up position.
Radio works fine.I will source the correct antenna later.
. . . not quite sure what your terminology is referring to Felix, (...base of the antenna comes out of the guard)?
The base is secured to the mast tube by some small, self tapping, 5/16 hex head screws, and a metal bracket at the bottom, that is fastened to the inner right fender splash shield.
At least you know the electric motor is serviceable!
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The electric antenna can be repaired - it is covered in the '68 Shop Manual, as is the turn signal switch replacement.
Sometimes the nylon cable in a power antenna gets jammed from years of dirt and crud collecting in the base of the antenna.
You might also have a broken cable, or a bent mast section that is causing the problem. If the electric motor is damaged you will need a replacement.
Your fortunate the car does not have cornering lamps, just a tilt wheel, as that switch is a little easier to find.
Cornering lamps with tilt (... BPM RED), are a little harder to source !
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Like the headlight system in '68-'69 Riviera, those 'power door locks' were vacuum operated, and had miles of 1/8" colour coded hoses running from the lower firewall vacuum manifold through the centre of the dash panel to a control relay and out into each door through the rubber conduit that also housed the power window harness.
Like the headlight system, all you needed was one split hose, or vacuum leak to render the locks useless ! They are a fairly rare option, and not to many Riviera owners chose them. They are well covered in the '68 Shop Manual !
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On 03/12/2016 at 7:58 PM, Chimera said:
Can we get some pictures of the interior Dr. Watson? Evidently the word on the streets is that this has special order paint AND special interior. Lets see if we can figure out what the interior addition is.
. . . could it simply be that the SPL actually applies to the 00 paint ? hhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
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1 hour ago, epriv said:
Felix, I have one along with the rubber backing plate (mounted from the inside of the trunk), but no nuts. PM me.
Mitch
The emblem is fastened with 2, (..maybe 3?), self tapping, steel, speed nuts that cut their own thread on the studs of the pot metal emblem.
Don't over-tighten the emblem, as the studs are only pot metal, and are prone to breaking !
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Thanks for the heads up Randall !
Based on the current exchange rate, (...about .25 cents per dollar), that will be approximately $ 44 for 1 year, $82 for 2 years, and $120 for 3 years for those members living here in the Frozen North.
The 6 issues of the Riview make it well worth the increased membership fees in the ROA !
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1 hour ago, KongaMan said:
If you've got one broken wire, it might pay to carefully inspect the others. You can't always tell if the conductors are broken inside the insulation, but there are sometimes obvious signs of damage.
Good advice - might as well splice all the wires while you have it open. The driver's door is open and closed more often than the passenger door.
Age, along with the constant flexing will cause the wires in the harness to break and render the power windows unserviceable.
Clean all the wiring connections and chassis grounds too.
That's what I did to my '68 many, many moons ago, and the power windows are still working well without any problems.
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You were very fortunate Brad, on an AC equipped car it is a 'PITA' to gain access to any under dash wiring without removing a bunch of parts.
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Contact "Riviera Bob" Stemm, ROA# 2827 - rahlinas@aol.com - or call 810-348-9525 Flint, MI
He advertises in the RIVIEW and deals in '63-'65 Riviera parts, but he did have an NOS '68/'69 Riviera trunk emblem 4 sale at the Hershey,PA meet in 2011.
It may have sold by know, or maybe he still has it - worth a try ?
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. . . like ED sed mate !
Just splice some new wire into the existing harness - where it flexes inside the rubber conduit.
Ensure the splice is the same guage wire, and solder and tape all the splices.
This is a very common fault on power window cars !
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. . . just keep looking Felix, they do appear on 'evilBay' from time to time - 'good used' is probably your best source mate, as NOS Riviera emblems are rare.
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I'm with Chimera on this one - 'special order' paint top and bottom, case closed.
It just looks like it's a close match to a Riviera exclusive colour, which makes it 1 of 527 cars !
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59 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
as Seafoam65 mentions, you may need to clean up a lot of terminals, including the ground (earth terminal ) to ensure good contact. I used a Dremel with small wire wheel to remove 50+ years of corrosion on all headlight, horn, relay and numerous other connections and so many things came to life. The terminals can be eased out of their plastic housings with a fine flat screw driver, giving you access to the brass connections. These are often black by now but clean up really well and amazing, everything works again!
. . . not that it matters Rodney, but that was my advice to Felix !
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Other GM cars of that era used the same trunk light Felix - good 'used' might be a source ?
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The outer lamps are 'Hi' and 'Low' beam, while the inner lamps are 'Hi' beam only Felix.
They are controlled by the 'foot type' dimmer switch located on the upper left hand corner of the driver's floor panel.
There is a 'Hi' beam indicator in the instrument cluster to let you know the 'Hi' beam lamps are on.
On these old cars, rust and corrosion are quite common for faulty electrical circuits, and it is necessary to check and clean all wiring connections to ensure no electrical 'gremlins' cause any problems. All the chassis ground connections should be checked and cleaned too!
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The 'switch' is actually part of the lamp assembly Felix.
It's a gravity type 'mercury' switch that makes contact to turn the light on when the trunk lid is raised, and breaks the contact when the trunk lid is lowered.
You may need a slight adjustment on the mounting angle of the light assembly, or a replacement unit.
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. . . they sure don't build them to last, and this is a prime example of that - at least you saved a portion of it Ken !!
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5 hours ago, RivNut said:
. . . probably because he only does repro '66-'70 centre cap plastic inserts - no '64s.
BTW - nice collection Ed. !!
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. . . the continuing saga - Did not sell, so new seller lowered price and relisted on "evilBay" !
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I checked and measured a set of NOS '69/'70 hubcaps I have, the plastic 'R' centres are larger than the cone type medallions, but not as large as your spinner type 'R' medallions Ken.
Thought they might fit but they are too small !
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1968 riviera windscreen washer pump
in Buick Riviera
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Check the connections to the washer pump on the wiper motor for corrosion ?
The ground is at the wiper switch, and there is also an additional ground at the wiper motor and washer under one of the housing mounting bolts.
Check your '68 shop manual for info.