Jump to content

68RIVGS

Members
  • Posts

    1,238
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 68RIVGS

  1. Maybe not planned, but that green paint on the bridge grating and structure compliment the color of the car for some striking results.

    Even simple DSLR digital cameras are quite capable of professional results, as your Canon EOS Rebel clearly shows !

    I attended a local airshow event last week and took over 600 shots which eventually were culled down to 60 keepers.

    That's just one of the advantages of digital DSLRs.

    . . . yah done good Jason !

     

  2. Thank you Jason !!

    That is one beautiful restoration, and well worth all the blood, sweat, and tears.

    The pictures speak for themselves - over restored? maybe, but absolutely drop dead, show worthy gorgeous.

    Just another 'labour of love', thanks for sharing !

     

    p.s. don't forget to add these pictures to 'my garage' on v8buick, so the GS and Skyhawk crew can appreciate a special 'E body Riviera'.

     

  3. The Year One kit is similar to the one I used when I went to an internally regulated alternator - no cutting, splicing, or changing the original wiring harness.

    Replaced a 43 amp. alternator with a 63 amp. rebuilt AC Delco unit. You can go for higher rated alternator if your running a monster music system, or electric fans. Google is your friend Chris, there is loads of info on the web, Just ensure the replacement unit is 'clocked' the same as your existing alternator. 

  4. As I recall, the mechanical type washer pumps had to be 'indexed', or 'timed', by inserting a drill bit into a specific hole on reassembly.

    If this step is not done at assembly, the pump will cycle, but will not shut off, and it works continuously as you describe.

    Double check your instructions, and the procedure may be described in a '79 Shop Manual ?

  5. If the hole is right through the intake manifold, it is cause for concern, as it will affect the performance of the engine.

     If it is just a casting flaw that does not penetrate the intake manifold it is a cosmetic only flaw.

    Some 'High Heat' JB Weld will seal the hole and not be affected by engine temperatures.

  6. On ‎07‎/‎06‎/‎2016 at 5:21 PM, petelempert said:

    Everyone should feel empowered to do whatever they want to their car if it makes them happy. "If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad". I guess I'm just questioning the entire concept of protecting the way something looks by permanently covering it. It's everywhere. Vinyl covered couches, uncomfortable and ugly, but preserve the fabric? Mudflats, protect the paint, but negatively affect the lines of the car? Air deflectors that keep stones and bugs from damaging paint and windshields, but look abysmal? Old ladies walking around with scarfs preserving their hairdo, but looking like they're wrapped in toilet paper? Youngsters with their thin, light smartphones encased in a thick, bulky outer case to keep the phone from getting scratched? The list goes on. Am I crazy? Probably. I'm just saying... PRL

     

     

    . . . couldn't say it any better Pete !!

  7. Just a small flexible 'tang' on each pin secures them in the connector - a narrow flat exacto blade, or small screw driver blade inserted into each connector position will allow you to release the 'tang' on each pin from the connector. Mark each wire per the connector color code diagram to be sure they go back into the correct location on the connector. Most GM wire connector contacts are secured in this fashion, so removal can be accomplished without cutting the wire !

  8. On my '68 I removed all the pins from the lower column connector  - then I was able to pull the flat  ribbon wire down the steering column and re-insert the pins back into the connector at the bottom of the steering column - it also had cornering lamp connections.

    No cutting needed, and no special tools, but I did have a parts car for reference, and to practice on.

  9. 22 minutes ago, RivNut said:

    Aw, come on Randy.  Please don't tell me that I'm not just another jelly bean in the box.  I so much want to be like everyone else.

    Then we should all own and drive Commonaros Ed, but that's a little 'off topic' from the original post ! 

  10. 13 hours ago, JZRIV said:

    You are correct Randy. Sometimes I forget we drive Rivieras not Camaros. LOL.

    The reproduction business for Buick related items is generally not very lucrative.

     

    It's all just part of the price you have to pay for being different Jason !! LOL

  11. I doubt it Jason, he and many others have been selling the inaccurate version, or poor reproduction for a some time now.

    Even with today's technology, to 'blind emboss' that repro you will need to have a steel die made, (...maybe two, one for the dimples, and the other for the lines), a special press that can accomplish the task accurately, with a minimum of spoilage, plus it's an extra step (...or two), in the process, which means more time and expense. I'm thinking the end result may not justify the additional expense and time involved to produce a 100% accurate facsimile?

  12. The original decals did not age well, with exposure to engine heat, and over time, just did not survive. 

    I managed to save some originals - out of 3 cars, and a dozen valve cover decals, I salvaged 1 pair of the embossed originals that were in fairly decent condition. I'm glad I did, because as far as I know, and as Jason has stated, nobody makes an accurate 'blind embossed' facsimile ! Many, many moons ago, I was able to purchase an original NOS 'blind embossed' 430 red air cleaner decal from a Buick dealer at Fall Carlisle, which is now a 'keeper' item.

    Guess the additional cost of a steel die to accurately 'blind emboss' the current reproductions must be too expensive?

    While the current valve cover decals are not 100% accurate, they are certainly far better than Jason's original, but it would be nice to have some exact reproductions available !

     

×
×
  • Create New...