68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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I have a set of original '68s that are off the car Jason, but they are in 'deep freeze' storage and not accessible at this time.
I'm pretty certain they did have a tab, or flap, that tucks under the A-arm shaft.
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Just find a Buick bud, or neighbour, who is a mechanic, lives close by, and you can 'borrow' all this stuff Sam !!
LOL. . . great advice from all.
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As everyone can see from the photos the pedal portion of the ebrake system is stamped from bare steel and is prone to rusting. The only painted portion of the pedal mechanism is the part that is usually visible under the dash. The ebrake cables are steel also, inside a steel sheathed housing that may, or may not, have a cover to protect it from the elements and corrosion. With ware, age, weather conditions, or just lack of use, these bare steel cables will corrode and actually sieze, sometimes locking up the cables in the sheath, or the rear ebrake mechanism.
From my old motorcycle days, a similar situation could happen with the clutch, and brake cables. To add some reliability, and longevity to the cables we used to lube them on a regular basis with AT fluid, or chain saw oil, which was a no-no, as grease or oil attracted grit 'n dirt which was supposedly not good for the cables - but I never had to replace a clutch, or brake cable as a result of this procedure.
I used the same lube on my ebrake system when the entire brake system was rebuilt almost 40 years ago !
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There it is, #1373406 right on mine. Now to polish her up and paint the handle. Hmmm Red or Black?
It should be red like the engine block, but polish it real good and shiny, and clear coat the looped handle portion only, for that almost chrome look !
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430 engines, and perhaps some 455's did not have a 'dip stick' tube per say. There was just an access hole in the block between the exhaust manifold and the left head.A flat washer style cap was fastened to a calibrated flat steel 'dip stick' that simply was inserted into the access hole in the block.
In the '68 Chassis Manual it's called: Rod-Adapter, Crankcase Oil Guage, and the p/n for 430's is Grp.1.516, #1373406.
The part number is stamped on the Dip Stick, or Rod-Adapter, whichever you prefer.
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Welcome to the ROA, and the wonderful world of Riviera from the 'balmy' north !!
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Great follow up info Jason - that same stereo option was also available for '68-'69, and possibly '70 models?
Buick sound engineers figured that 'stereo' sounded better front and rear, rather than right and left channels, as we know it now !
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Sounds like you may have a reverberation unit, or a stereo multiplex unit with your '67 FM radio ?
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They may be reproduced, and are common to all GM models.
Some have 2 thin aluminum inserts to dress up the appearance of the emergency brake pedal, so it matches the larger brake pedal
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It's a mercury activated switch Kendall.
When the lid is down - no power, when the lid is raised the mercury completes the circuit, and the light comes on.
Try testing it when it's not mounted in the lid by tilting the assembly to see if it works and the assembly must be grounded.
You may just have to adjust the bend angle of the mounting bracket tab to get the switch to function properly.
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. . . don't think that's exactly what he's looking for Ed - trunk cardboard and window felts ?
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The metal portion is not reproduced as far as I know, so your best bet is 'good used' from a parts car.
I think they are the same for all 2nd generation cars, so there are a lot of used sources available in various condition.
The rubber strip seals are reproduced, as are the door pillar seals from various sources.
The steel used for the metal trim piece is prone to rusting, and the chrome plating did not stand the test of time either.
You might try a 'parts wanted' post here, or over on v8buick.com
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Amazing what a little TLC, time, and the proper preparation will do - looks brandy new (...almost) !
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While they do look similar, the GM originals have different part numbers and they most likely will not fit your Riviera.
Occasionally you do get lucky, and find similar items from other GM model years that will fit.
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. . . nice score Kevin, and a great example of the 'red headed' step child of Rivieras !!
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. . . couldn't have said it any better Jason.
Amazing what some time, skill, determination, and the proper tools can accomplish - as shown by the photos.
Nice work Brad !
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I say 'Parts Car', and not a very decent one either - been sitting for some time !
Maybe too long, . . . it also has '66-'70 era chrome road wheels ?
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Speed nuts and pot metal parts can cause you grief Chris !
The speed nuts are hard steel, and the chrome plated pot metal is prone to corrosion once the threads are cut into the thin shafts, even more so with age. All the front hood, and hood spear, along with the fender trim on a '68/'69 Riv is pot metal studs with speed nuts, so I can appreciate your pain, but don't have a solution to secure that hood emblem.
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Mine sits in a non-heated garage, and covered for the long winter sleep. I never start it during the winter months.
Just add some Stabil to a full gas tank, and change the oil 'n filter in the Fall. The battery is removed, stored indoors and placed on a trickle charger. One of the reasons for not starting the car is the fact that it never really reaches full operating temperature, so your just wasting expensive fuel, not to mention what the moisture generated by starting does to the exhaust system, and internal engine parts. Replace the battery in the Spring and your good to go for another season. Some people also place the car on jack stands to remove the weight off the tires and suspension parts. I used to do that, but don't bother any more.
I neglected to mention: check the condition, and strength of your antifreeze mixture.
Very necessary in geographic locations where winter temperatures drop below freezing !
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Never had any problems with the 430 running on whatever fuel was available, with or without ethanol, 89-94 octane.
While a higher octane, non-ethanol fuel is preferred, it is not always available, and if it is, you will pay a premium $ for it.
Back in my Wildcat days, I was working at a local airport and had access to 120 Avgas - the BBB430 performed like a scalded cat on that fuel !!
I always try and fuel the Riviera with 92 octane, non-methanol fuel, since it's not a daily driver, and gets limited use during the short summer season. I am also fortunate to have two service stations with that fuel in close proximity to me.
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. . . did you left click on 'attach this file.' before you posted the test Texas John ?
I neglected to do that on my first test post, so the pic was not attached to the post.
However, it did work fine on my second attempt.
You can also preview the post to ensure the picture is attached !
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. . . forgot to attach the file - it works Ed !
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. . . thanks Ed, that makes it real easy !!
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Then one with the steel insert is the way the originals were made, and are a little more durable.
Just make sure the steel track is free from any loose rust and corrosion before you install the replacement. A liberal amount of clear silicone sealant will help the replacement slide in easier, and also bond the new seal into the track once it cures, in addition to keeping moisture out.
LOL
'69 Riviera Carpet
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
Alexander - See if they will send you a carpet 'swatch' so you can compare how close the replacement colour is to your existing carpet. You might be able to get away with just replacing the existing front and rear carpet, without the added hassle of replacing the door panel, kick panel carpet inserts if they are a close match?