68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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. . . no problem Sam, should improve your chances of getting a proper version !
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Don't think they were left open Frank.
On '68 inner rocker panels, drain holes were plugged with a rubber insert that had a flap style cover to allow dirt and moisture to come out. These access points could also be used to oil spray the inaccessible, untreated, interior surfaces of the rocker panel to slow down or prevent premature rusting.
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The DC motor for a 2nd generation Riviera power antenna gets chassis ground from the metal bracket that is bolted to the base of the DC motor housing and the metal, right hand, inner fender well, and from the escutcheon mounting clip.
Ed is absolutely correct - the spring steel clip holds the antenna fender escutcheon securely in place in the top of the fender, but the antenna mast housing in turn, is keyed to fit a slot in the chrome plated escutcheon, (...or antenna fender bezel) which in turn, supposedly grounds the entire antenna housing to the top of the metal fender via the spring steel retainer clip.
. . . it's been a while since I overhauled a power antenna, so please bear with me !
. . . don't you just love using the word "escutcheon" ?
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Electric Antenna for 2nd generation Riviera are all the same '66 - '70 Sam.
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I agree with Jason's comments -
Buick power antennas only had two connections - they were black 'n white, one for 'up', and the other for 'down'.
Power was applied to the switch, and the antenna was grounded with a special spring steel clip that secured the top antenna escutcheon to the fender.
Sam - you should look for the correct Riviera power antenna, and have that one rebuilt (...if needed).
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There are way too many variables to this situation, but I think you are under estimating the costs of bodywork and a complete repaint.
Suffice to say that given todays market, $5K will hardly cover material costs, and certainly will not cover the labor involved to refinish the car. There was a time when $5K would get you a pretty decent paint job, but those days are history !
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To answer your questions Stuart: (...info taken from a '70 Riviera sales brochure).
The Riviera Now Offers Its Owners New, Distinctive Styling Choices.
High Profile wheel opening covers with, or without the body side sweep spear molding.
Standard Full wheel opening covers with, or without the body side sweep spear molding.
1) The body side sweep spear molding had a 'delete option', and you had a choice of either 'High Profile, or 'Full' fender skirts.
2) Bucket Seats and Console were options, and could be ordered on any '70 Riviera, GS or otherwise.
. . . hope this helps
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Age and corrosion in older cars can result in poor or faulty electrical circuits, and the loss of proper chassis ground connections.
As a result, some of the electrical components fail to function, and will require some time and diagnostics to determine the cause.
Unfortunately the electrical circuits and components were just not designed to last forever.
Poor ground connections are a common fault in a 50 year old car !
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This information should also be available in a '65 Shop Manual ?
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The 'Tilt Steering Wheel' is included in the list of 'Standard Equipment' on a '68 Window Sticker.
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The guy selling on eBay is fellow ROA member Steven Brisbois. His current '68 AC/Heater control face plate reproductions, while not exactly the same as the originals, are made with no die cut openings (...to keep production costs to a minimum). So they do require some surgery with an exacto knife for the cutouts, but they are the best facsimile you will find currently available !
The sets that were offered by OPGI were from a limited production run and they sold out.
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. . . forgot to mention -
Those plastic, door handle recess pieces were usually colour matched to the interior colour of the car - yours appear to be faded, or white from the door photo you posted. Just something I spotted in reviewing your posts.
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You and your graphic designer friend have done an excellent reproduction job mannamerjung !
Apart from the darker wood grain colour, it would be hard to distinguish it from 'factory original'.
There are quite a few '69 and '70 'full size' Buick owners who only wish they could achieve the same results !
. . . a job well done sir !!
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The '68 Owners Manual specifies a Delco Y71 energizer Jason - maybe check the '66 Owners Manual for the correct size ?
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As mentioned, corrosion from age, seized or rusted pivot points, and poor electrical or ground connections are usually the culprits in power window malfunction. A little time and TLC will cure a lot of power window problems. The power window motors must also have a good chassis ground.
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. . . those wheel covers look great when they are clean, but the fun part, or challenge, is trying to keep them looking that way !!
They were also available as option 'V4 - Super Deluxe Wheel Cover' on the '68 Riviera for $57.89
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. . . nice score Zipdang !! - get some pics posted on this car.
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. . . probably a cousin, or some relative of Al Schmidt's ? LOL
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. . . WOW, for a while there Jason, I thought that was your stash - talk about Buick parts hoarders !
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. . . ran when parked - 25 years ago !
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The drums are finned aluminum with cast iron steel inserts, so conventional brake shoes can be used without any problem, as long as the drums can be turned within acceptable limits.
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. . . they could park it in my garage anytime, beautiful example of a '65 Gran Sport !
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I'll find those frozen 'originals' and take some pics for you Jason !
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The problem with the repro is trying to match the wood grain pattern Ed. Someone on v3buick (...Greg Setter), actually did a decent set of repro '69-'70 wood grain dash inserts for A, and E bodies about 5+ years ago, but they never recovered the initial investment expenses, so when the sets sold out, they were gone forever, and not reproduced.
Need a 2+2 power window switch with pigtails on all posts 1967 Riviera
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
Other GM cars from that era probably used the same switch Ken, which includes all 2nd generation Riviera.
While they were not intended as a repairable item, they can be carefully disassembled and repaired too - just a thought.
The main chrome body is a pot metal casting so be very delicate when opening the indented crimps to check the various switch components that are sandwiched together in the switch body. Corrosion or broken contacts in the switch are usually the culprits.
There is a thick polyethylene cover over the sandwiched pieces to weatherproof the switch contacts from the elements.