68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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1 hour ago, NCRiviera said:
Would you recommend removing the dash pad before removing the instrument cluster?
The dash pad is much easier to remove, and will give you access to the PW relay but you will need to remove the speaker grill - ashtray, radio and centre dash vent bit 'n pieces prior to dash pad removal. You will also have to remove the glove box liner to gain access to some of the dash pad retainers - then there are 3 spring type pins that secure the dash pad in place, one on ach side of the cluster and one on the right side of the dash. Don't forget to remove the screws at the top of the plastic instrument cluster bezel before you pull the dash pad back from the dash.
If you have an AC or none-AC equipped car there is little to no access from the lower portion of the dash without removing most of the cloth ducting.
Everything is old, brittle and well aged so be very gentle when removing all the bits 'n pieces.
Removing the plastic instrument cluster bezel is a P.I.T.A. task - and is best avoided unless your doing a concours restoration.
I removed mine once, and will never attempt it again if it can be avoided !
. . . hope this helps.
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. . . are we having fun yet Mike?
The PW Relay is buried, and mounted near the centre of the dash area - when you turn the ign. switch OFF from ACC, or ON, you should hear an audible 'click' when the relay works.The ignition key buzzer (...if working), will also sound if the key is left in the ignition.
On page 120-117 - Power Window Wiring Diagram, the PW relay is referred to as an 'Ignition Relay' on the left side of the diagram.
The 40 AMP circuit breaker on the fuse panel is for the power accessories, windows and seat as they draw a lot of current to function.
Just use an ohm meter to see if it is working - it's just a heavy duty fuse.
I have never operated the windows in tandem, just one at a time, but I might just try it - cleaning, adjusting and lubing tracks, and pivot points will certainly improve the operation of the power windows, but that job should go on a separate work order !!
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47 minutes ago, 70rivme said:
Same guy, all I can say is it''s about time. I was asking this guy to reproduce these awhile back. Now I just need to find a spare $100 to give up.
This guy is fellow ROA member Steven Brisboise , or just plain 'Briz !
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The larger lamps are cornering lamps which were an option on the '68 and '69 models. With the headlights or parking lamps on, the brighter cornering lamps come on when the turn signal switch is activated, the housing also has a mandatory side marker lamp. The smaller rectangular lamps on '68 and '69 cars were mandatory side marker lamps only, and light up when the parking or headlamp switch is in the ON position.
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. . . thanks for sharing Paul - an ideal replacement gasket that matches the deteriorated foam originals !!
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. . . shoulda seen it when it was just a rolling chassis at Hershey, PA in 2010 - it was a real work of art !
Too bad most of it disappeared when the body went back on - a real bonafide winner for sure !
Excellent article Jason - almost time for another project. LOL
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. . . and how much 'gold' did you fork out for that brandy new switch Mr. Paul?
I heard that they were scarce and priced accordingly - I paid $65 US for a NOS Red Boyne in 2001.
Now comes the fun part - installing it !
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It does have a correct, proper right hand rear view mirror option, rear widow defogger and different size white walls (front to back).
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On 12/05/2017 at 1:43 PM, telriv said:
If I remember correctly red & white were for diff. apps.
Correct Tom - if I remember correctly, BPM Red ( GP 2.895 #5698899) fits all with cornering lamps.
The one Craig has (...#7800483) is a Delco, White, or Green switch, fits all, and is less cornering lamps?
Both types had the hazard warning switch.
( Info from '68 Buick Parts Book - effective date May 1968)
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Craig has, and has listed many NOS Buick parts on various Buick sites and he is still living somewhere in the '60s !!
. . . if your interested in what he has - CALL him !
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. . . one of the best automotive magazines available !
They have done feature articles on most of the different generations of Riviera.
If you go to collectibleautomobile.com you can download the CA index for all publications starting May 1984.
'evilBay' is also a good source for finding back issues of the publication, as Steve stated !
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. . . my most little or no fun option was vacuum anything - '68s and '69s were full of them !!
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. . . well deserved Jason - too great !!
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Thanks for the 'heads up' Terry - Danbury and Franklin are very good sources for quality die cast models !
. . . some collectors prefer 1:43 scale Ed - a big advantage is they don't take as much space to display compared to larger 1:18 scale models !
Usually the fine details and small parts are reasonably close to scale on high quality 1:43 die cast cars like Minichamps,
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They are stainless steel 'belt line' mouldings and will polish up quite nicely Paul !
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Try a search on the ROA website for Darwin's Riviera production articles in Past Issues of the Riview ?
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I concur with Jason for second generation cars on this one - the adhesive will help seal out moisture in the areas specified !
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B e a u t y is always in the " i " of the beholder !
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. . . as Pat stated, it's a custom interior, and a nice one that matches the '69 pattern right down to the pleats and all the button inserts !
The only 'factory option' available for '69 was vinyl seats with cloth inserts that were a similar colour,to the vinyl seats and the interior.
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4 hours ago, JanZverina said:
To Rocky5517 - I would guess that the crank only/no start process is recommended by Lares because the front wheels are off the ground to eliminate resistance on the steering gear from the tires.
To PWB: I have a C635 on order, thanks. I'll swap the cover. I for one like a pretty original underhood appearance. I'll send some images when I can.
Thanks to all who responded!
It just makes for less resistance to bleed the air out of the system, and with the cap off the ps reservoir, if the engine was started the power steering fluid would oil spray anything and everything under the hood, including the underside of the hood !
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The manual does not have that information Chris, and mirror locating information for different models is usually furnished on a printed instruction sheet included with an accessory mirror.
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x4 with Winston - while they do look OK, custom wheels on a custom car, stock wheels for an original car !
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New rubber is more resilient than the old weather strip it replaced, so it will take some time for the new material to compress a little after you have the correct installation !
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. . . yah just can't rush mother nature, still way too early here in the frozen north !!
'68 Riviera windows stopped working
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
For reasons unknown, the relay 'click' is much more audible when the switch gets turned OFF either position - not ON !
There is a slight slight audible click when the ignition switch is turned ON and both lights (...GEN, and OIL) are in full brilliance, but it's much louder when the switch is turned OFF. It comes from the centre area of the dash, just behind the radio where the PW relay is located.
. . . at least that is how my '68 works Mike.
NEVER assume anything when it comes to these cars ! LOL