unimogjohn

John, I made mine, bought a sheet from these guys a few years ago. I am sure others have it also. Gasket Materials - FELT GASKET SHEETS

Bkrystad, why don't you post a few pictures for us, and tell us more about the car?

OK, here is a "modern" 1930 Buick coupe on Ebay. It is now at $10K with 6 days to go. Looks to be a solid #2. This should be a better comparison than that "antique" of a 26. Buick:eBay Motors (item 200360905048 end time Jul-15-09 08:55:54 PDT)

The 26 was sold at $15,100. Also here is what another forum was saying about the 1930 in the subject. 1930 Buick roadster, What is it worth? - THE H.A.M.B. Finally, I tour in both my 23 and 28. Only thing I miss is a heater in the winter. I hate you guys with your modern 30s cars.

Now I know that the years are different(26 versus 30, but both look to be in similar condition. So one would expect that they should be close in price. Ebay auction has three hours to go and it is in the $12K range. I will post the selling price. Buick:eBay Motors (item 320391117801 end time Jul-08-09 18:21:53 PDT)

I would say, best case, around $15; but more realistic in this tough economic environment would be $11 to 12K. The reason I say this is that I watch the sales of cars through AutoTrader, auctions, and Ebay. I would say that by looking at the pictures this would be classified as a 3 car. The refreshing is nicely done, a great drivers car. Just my opinion.

JW, I would think that the insurance value of your car as is would be in the $20K range, if the top and interior redone, then $30K. These may be a bit on the high side. Now a seller price would probably be less. Basing this on what my appraiser and insurance guy said about my 23-45 a year ago. Nice car by the way. Cannot help with the timing other than you should be able to put on a timing light and check the current timing at the inspection plate you mentioned. There are marks on the flywheel. I use a 12v timing light connected to a 12v batter to check mine.

OK, took her out this morning for a drive. Sorry for the poor video quality, had the camera resolution a bit too low.

Hi, since the forum seems to be a bit slow I decided to make a video of starting our 1923 McLaughlin Buick. It is at May even take it out today and post a video of it running down the road. This will be its third time out of the barn. Will let you know if I accomplish this.

Pete has sent me more pictures of his original 23-45. Here they are for your enjoyment.

Mark, Pete's email is ovalpete@att.net He said that he would welcome your contact. He also said that he would provide pictures in a few days.

Mark, Pete contacted me and in return asked him if I could send you his email. Waiting for his response. Also he said that he would take pictures and send them out in a few days. He is surprised that anyone would be interested in his old car. I assured him that we are, and that he had a true survivor, which is a treasure.

Mark, the Buckley/Bonny Lake area, near Tacoma. I have been waiting for him to send me a reply email, none so far.

My son in WA was picking up some local beer, and saw this un-restored 23-45 in the parking lot. I am in VA so he called me, and I got to talk to the owner. Encouraged him to join the group so he may do so in the future. Here is the pic of the car.

Or, you can get five or more feet of it for just a few dollars from McMaster-Carr. You need the 1/4 inch general purpose. Works great and you have enough for you and your friends. http://www.mcmaster.com/#graphite-packing/=2cfunp John in VA

JB, thanks for the info. Did not know that about the transmissions. I 22 transmission that I have is for a 4 cyl model. If you want to sell that drive just let me know off list. unimogjohn@aol.com Tx, John in VA

I have been looking for the speedo drive gear that goes into the transmission for a 1923-45. So far no luck. So decided to ask the group if anyone has one for sale. I was able to find one from a 26, but it was too large and would not fit in the hole of the transmission. I have a 22 transmission, but it uses a drive on the driver's wheel. So I need one to finish out my instrument panel and get them all working. Errrr, well, sort of. Then there is the fuel gauge. But that is for another day. John in VA

Steve, usually the problem can be solved by opening the tank and inspecting for damaged or worn parts; and by replacing the two cork gaskets is where an air leak usually happens. You can make these gaskets or several folks sell them for about $7 each. Check the inner tank for rust through; make sure the springs trip the filler mechanism and are not broken or streched. I put in a clear filter in the fuel line so I could watch the fuel being sucked into the vacuum tank. You can remove it if you want after everything is sorted out and working. Hope that this helps. John in VA

JB, thanks, it is/was the linkage. It still needs some adjustment as the starter seems to either want to stick or not go at all. Really have to jam the pedal so to speak. The clicking sound is when I turn on the ignition, the clicking is really the rotating of the starter motor before you push in on the starter pedal. John in VA

Brian, got her running. Found a couple of things. First, the little C plunger/puller was not pulling out far enough to engage all the electrics needed to start the car. Pushed the plunger with a crowbar and she immediately engaged and started. Pulled the floor boards and found that the arm on the shaft where the starter pedal engages was loose and not allowing the rotation of the rod. So tightened that up, and then put oil in the little holes around the plate that is above the flywheel. While they were not dry I was not getting full movement of the rods that go in and out to control the flywheel engagement. So anyway, it is starting again. But I do have some slop between the pedal mechanism and the little arm on the shaft. I can spin/turn the pedal shaft, but it does not see to have any effect on the adjustment. Will have to look after the sun goes down. It is just too hot outside to have much fun in the sun. John in VA

Brian, may have to call on you for some assistance. Washed the 23, took pictures, and then attempted to start her up for the trip to the garage. Pushed in on the starter and nothing. No clicking when I turn on the ignition. So frustrated, just pushed her back in the garage with the tractor. Yesterday, I pulled the combo switch (is a new rebuild from Bob's Automobilia). My thinking is that it got wet during the was as I had the vent out. I checked all the connections, loosened each one and retightened. Then I got out the meter and I have over 6 volts at each of the connections, and the ignition side goes on and off like it should. All the lights work. When I turn on the ignition the amp meter does show a discharge of 10 amps as per usual. So the switch seems fine. I then checked the connections on the starter generator and they are fine, all have correct voltage. The starter generator has been rebuilt and physically is in fine shape. So today will check all the rods and levers with assistance from my bride and see if something has broken or has come out of alignment. The only thing different now versus before when it started is that now there is no resistance as the started rod reaches the end of its travel to engage the flywheel. Will let you know what I find out. John in VA

Forgot. I imagine you could paint the plastic tubing black if you wanted after installing. I think that if you did it before, the paint would crack. I have my post painted black and it shows through the clear plastic. John in VA

Mike and JB, I too have been looking for the gaskets for over two years, never have been able to find them. So decided to try to make something that would work. This is what I came up with. Head off to Home Depot and get a couple of large rubber washers to use as a base against the cowl. Then get a length of clear tubing the same inside diameter as the post, slip it over the post and cut off the amount needed to fill the distance between the post and the rubber washer. I needed to cut a slight angle at the bottom of the tube to conform to the cowl. I also made the tube a bit longer so it would compress and seal itself from the rain. The result is that it works, and looks fine. No one has ever said that I have an incorrect seal. So until we find those gaskets this will do the job. Here is a picture of what it looks like. John in VA

I guess you could go either way, but my research indicates that the McLaughlins, now totally owned by GM, in 23 got the Buick badge. However, McLaughlin Buick was still selling in Australia and England under the McLaughlin name. The data plate in the engine bay and the dash read GM of Canada. The only thing that still said McLaughlin was the writing on the temp gauge. John

Well after almost 2 and a half years the car has gone from being in boxes to almost done. Just finished refinishing all the bows for the top, cleaning all the attachments, and making sure all the pieces were there. So now she is heading off to the trimmer for a new top in a couple of weeks. Just thought the group might like to see her. John in VA