unimogjohn

I have had good luck getting small electrical parts, including brushes from Precision Parts. Give them a call. Here is their web site. http://www.precision-pwr.com/ John in VA 23 McLaughlin Buick, model 45 28 Buick, model 29 Town Brougham

Would be helpful to see pictures. Does it run and drive? If it was in average to good condition I would expect to pay around $4 to 5k. But that is me. John in VA 23 McLaughlin Buick 28 Buick

Just a comment, when I have to keep the choke pulled out it usually means that I have an air leak, broken gasket or burned out tube in the casting above the carb (sorry, I do not know what that is called) allowing more air than needed into the system. John in VA 23-45 McLaughlin Buick 28-29 Buick Town Brougham

I received lots of pictures of this car too. They are posted at www.picasaweb.google.com/unimogjohn

In Australia. Dave Corbin, you asked me to let you know if I ever found another 23 McLaughlin Buick 45 Special Right Hand Drive. You thought at only a dozen or so might have been produced in Canada and exported. I managed to find another one, but it does have a different stamp on the motor different from mine. But, at least this will fill in another hole in your database for McLaughlin. Here are three pics of the car, and also included is a pic of my data plate (red cowl). John in VA

Tim, here are other instructions you will need. Let me know if you want them in an email. John in VA

Tim, check this diagram. It does have the terminals and where they connect. Hope that this helps. I used this manual to rewire my 23-45, the 22 is the same. John in VA

Scott, I have heard good things about this company, but have never personally used them. They are in PA. www.calimerswheelshop.com Would be worth a call, and if they are too far might be able to recommend someone in your immediate area. John 1923 McLaughlin Buick 45 Special Export 1928 Buick Town Brougham model 29 1969 Mercedes Benz Unimog 1989 Ford Taurus SHO (2 of them)

Abby, replied to you in the other topic area, but will do so here also. Do not let your hubby get too quick to call the tow truck for the junk yard. You have a 1926 model 27. I have attached a picture from a quick Google search. Post a couple of pictures and we can tell you its approximate value for parts or a complete car. We await more information/pictures. John

Abby, hold back that husband. The car, even just for parts, has value. Post a couple of pics, and we can give you an idea as to it worth. You have a 1926 model 27. Here is a picture from a quick Google search.

Go to Bob's Automobilia catalog. Page 13 has bulb sizes by year and usage. The same for points, etc. Hope this helps. www.bobsautomobilia.com

From the Seventy Years of Buick book. Trucks were made in the teens through the early 20s. I doubt many survived. Here is a page of 23s for your enjoyment. John in VA

Joe, hard to say. I have a 28 town brougham, Buick built about 10K of them also. There are now 7 in the Buick Club, and a registration search done in 1984 said there are about 23 remaining in state records. There are 5 listed in the 2008 BCA list of members for the 23-48; in 2003 it was 6. John in VA

There is a reference book on ebay if you are interested. Item number: 280330630837

Some more information for the car. Buick built 10,486 of the model 48; weighed 3,440; cost $1,895; and of course one of the dealer options were bumpers. "The Fisher-built body was finished in maroon, with black fenders and radiator shell". Above was taken from Seventy Years of Buick, Author: George Dammann John in VA

Yes, that is because there are so many Ts in good condition due to the massive repo parts available. Most folks just to not think of anything other than the Fords as they are the ones most see at shows. Hence, that is what they fall in love with without looks further than a car show. Other cars cost more to restore without repo parts also. But, with that said, there are plenty of us Buick nuts out there. Good luck on your purchase. Let us know how it goes. We will give you all the support we can. Also let us know where/location you are. John in VA

Joe, if I can figure out how this picture posting thing works, I will attach what should be your car at the top position. Operator and shop anuals are available too. John

Joe, it would be helpful if you posted a few pictures of the car. We can give you a better idea as to our thoughts. With that said, a good driver closed car seems to be going for somewhere in the $5K range. I have seen some go as high as $10 for a restored driver in the number 3 to 2 range. The open touring cars run higher, from $12 to 30K for a number 1 show car. Mechanical parts are available. I have not had any problems except for finding sheet metal in good condition. The are easy to work on and simple to maintain. Good running cars. They like to run about 35, but stopping with only 2 wheel brakes in the rear is a bit dicey. John in VA with a 1923-45 McLaughlin Buick Touring

What???? I think that it is a couple of bolts and pins from what I have read and seen. You do not have to take off the front of the engine/timing stuff if that is what you mean. John in VA

Usually if it is hissing there is a leak/split in the line. More likely it is at the end where it goes into the pump assembly. Also, the flap inside the pump chamber could be dried out, leaking vacuum, and causing the wipers not to move. If it was me I would do a couple of things. One, make sure the tube is not split at the pump. Two, rotate the pump by hand through a couple of cycles by turning it on and using the wiper arm itself to assist. This will redistribute oil/seal the flap inside the pump. Third, squirt a little oil through the vacuum hole and into the pump and do two above. If these fail, you will have to take the pump out and open it up. Be careful, these things will fall apart in your hands. John in VA

Derek, hope to see you and one of your fine cars at the MBCC meet in Kingston. We are coming up from the states/VA again this year. We always have a great time. Will be bringing up our "running" 23 MB. John in VA

For rebuilding try http://www.fdrbp.com/ Flying Dutchman. I have not had any experience with them, but others reported good results. John

Derek, several folks rebuild the pumps. However, in most cases it is the 1/4 inch rope packing that needs replacing. You can get it from several places and is not expensive. I just got a roll of five feet for around $20. So if you need a piece or two just let me know. John in VA 23 McLaughlin Buick 45 28 Buick Model 29 Town Brougham

Lief, could not believe it. Just talked to John Lee in Australia, and he had been looking for the same thing for his 24 McLaughlin Buick Touring. He finally found some in Canada at http://www.oldcarcentre.com/ He said they were also used on Model As. Could not find them in the US. He also sent me a page of a catalog that shows the image of the fastners and part numbers. I have no clue on how to post the image to his forum so write me at unimogjohn@aol.com and I will send it to you. John

Mike, I have a 23 McLaughlin Buick 5 passenger touring. I have the pieces of my top to include the back window. Yours should be similar. You can see a picture of the window (second picture in the series) at www.picasaweb.google.com/unimogjohn Look under the album title 23 top construction. If it is what you are looking for I will dig it out and measure it for you tomorrow morning. You can also look at the albums for the other 23 and 24 McLaughlin Buicks from Australia. Both has correct windows (at least for McLaughlins) John in VA unimogjohn@aol.com