joe_padavano

The obligatory 2CVs and Citroen DS and Model H van. Interestingly, I caught a glimpse of a newer minivan with corrugated sides that I assumed was retro styling to emulate the Model H. This Panhard Dyna was pretty cool, as was the Renault 17.

My wife and I have been in France for the last couple of weeks. There was a small car show in the next town over (Goudargues) on Thursday, which was a holiday. Here are a few photos. This Panhard was pretty cool. Older Renault and CItroens

Rear belts were an available dealer-installed option at least as far back as 1962. My 62 olds has pre-marked rear belt anchor locations.

Don't believe everything you hear or see on the interwebs. I've owned big block Olds motors for over half a century now, and I am not gentle with mine (including nitrous and drag strip use). I have never "grenaded" one. The real problem is uneducated builders who think every GM engine is a small block Chevy, and build that way. Obviously good internal engine build practices are required for any performance motor - deburr the block, open and smooth the oil drainback passages, etc. The restrictors that go in the oil feed holes to the cam bearings are less than worthless. A five second look at the Oldsmobile oiling diagram will show you that those passages do not feed the rockers and thus those restrictors do nothing other than increase wear on the cam bearings. A good high volume oil pump is cheap insurance. No it will NOT "suck the pan dry" as some interweb "experts" claim. Be sure the valves tips are properly set using either the GM gauge tool or equivalent. Again, many Chevy-centric machine shops are unaware of how important this is with Oldsmobile's non-adjustable valvetrain. For the street you do not need a deep oil pan or other aftermarket parts. Even an occasional track car will be fine. Cloyes double roller chain is a good investment.

Yes, Lares sells them. You pick the ratio you want. I would still have the original rebuilt with quick ratio gears, but that's me.

Sure, but when was the last time you saw a 9C1 Nova in a wrecking yard? I have a G-body Monte SS box in my 67 Delta, but again, I got that box about 15 years ago.

Not from the photo the OP posted.

I don't have insight one way or the other, but the last paragraph of the article tells me that this is really just a plug for the upcoming book. Call me cynical.

I would not use an easy-out on this. This is a steel NPT thread with minimal thickness in the area behind the threads. There won't be enough material for the easy-out to bite into and frankly, if you can't get enough torque on the larger diameter body of the sender, how will you get enough through the small diameter easy-out? My next move here would be to use a cutoff tool or Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut flats in the large diameter body of the switch and then use a really big open end wrench to attempt to loosen it. My other alternative would be to weld a nut to the remains of the switch body and use an impact wrench to remove it.

Which will have neither a quick ratio nor the correct torsion bar.

Coats 1010 machines go for less than that. This one is $300.

FYI, using a correct oil pressure switch socket on that switch originally would have prevented the carnage.

FYI, COSCO makes and sells stepladders (and other office products). COSTCO (with a "T") sells tires (and ginormous packages of stuff you usually don't really need). https://www.coscoproducts.com/collections/ladders https://www.costco.com/

I think I paid about $300 or so for my rim-clamp machine. Just the pneumatic bead breaker is worth it. The only downside is that it is getting more difficult and more expensive to properly dispose of the old tires. And the local government wonders why it has to pay people to pick up tires discarded on the side of the road.

The nickel and dime fees are only part of it. I've also recently run into a problem where I had picked up a nail in one of my trailer tires. I managed to limp it to the nearest tire store (a Pep Boys). I asked it if they could repair it. They said sure, bring the tire in. I went out, removed the tire, brought it in, and was told by the manager that they don't work on trailer tires. 🙄

Have your original box rebuilt with quick ratio gears. Note that the ratio does not determine the "feel" of the box, it's the thickness of the torsion bar that controls the force required to turn the wheel. You can have a quick ratio box that still has "one finger" power steering. Power Steering Specialties (www.powersteering.com) is one source for rebuilding yours with the right innards.

Without a photo of exactly what the OP is talking about, it's difficult to suggest a tool that will work.

I stopped going to tire stores when they started the whole "we can't just sell you one tire, you have to buy all four" BS. The final straw was when I tried to get two tires for my crewcab dually 4x4 to put on the front. The sales person had no clue about the difference between part-time 4WD and full-time AWD (or the fact that the transfer case didn't have a center differential, so I CAN'T drive it in 4WD on pavement very long). Even worse, he insisted that he had to sell me four tires. I pointed out that by his logic, wouldn't he have to only sell my SIX tires, since the truck was a dually. His response was "No, we'll put all four on the back." I went out to the parking lot, jacked up the truck myself, and rolled the two wheels and tires into the shop, telling them "You don't know what I am putting these on." Right after that, I purchased a used rim clamp tire machine and spin balancer and haven't looked back. I refuse to own anything new enough to have TPMS, so that isn't an issue. I buy tires from whichever online source is cheapest. It takes only a few minutes to compare Tire Rack, Amazon, Discount Tire, and even vendors on Ebay for the lowest price delivered to my porch. I recently bought four BFG T/As for my new 1969 Cutlass wagon and a vendor on Ebay from the west coast was by far the least expensive. The tires showed up a few days later. I have to say that the best part about owning my own tire machines (aside from not having to deal with idiots) is that I can use them at times that are convenient for me.

Can you post a photo of the sending unit part that's the problem? I haven't been following this thread closely and can't say that I'm up to speed on everything, plus descriptions don't always show the whole problem.

The sending units are the same. Just be sure you know if your car has fuel return or not, as the sending units are different. If the fuel pump has two lines (one in, one out) that is non-fuel return. If it has three lines (one in, two out) then you do have fuel return.

Is this our own Sebastienbuick featured in the RockAuto newsletter this month?

When did the state of NJ become the federal government? As for telling you what you can or cannot buy with your own money, try buying cocaine or a tactical nuclear weapon and see what happens.

Sadly, frame rot is all too common in the boxed convertible frames, particularly in the area where the frame kicks out behind the front wheels.

That is the problem. We're all jumping to conclusions based on headlines that may or may not reflect the actual facts. Of course, how is that any different that what goes on daily on the interwebs? If this story can be believed, the 78 year old in the Kia was NOT racing, though many here assumed he was. I have no idea if he carelessly crossed the road or not, however I've been in a lot of situations where one was similarly forced to cross traffic when there were not clear sightlines. Bottom line is that without more info, we're all just pulling conclusions from an orifice.

The 71 year old was driving a Honda and hit the 78 year old in a Kia Sportage who was trying to cross the road. No mention of what car the Honda was "racing". https://www.bigcountrynewsconnection.com/news/71-year-olds-alleged-racing-leads-to-serious-collision-north-of-spokane/article_2a2217b8-0007-11ef-b5d3-f3ca9f6b8e57.html