BillMadden

Will you sell just the bottom mechanism without the springs? Would be easier to ship and he says that's all he needs. My email is willmad@cox.net Let's correspond via email. May be interested in more parts if you are interested. Bill

This is for a friend so I need some education..... Tell me about what type could be expected in the 56R and do they all have the feature of the seat half moving forward when the back is leaned forward to allow extra room for someone getting into the backseat?? All I know for sure is anything regarding the 56C...... Thanks, Bill

1953 Buick Model 50 front seat for a 2-door. Need complete seat including mechanicals for hydraulic/operation. Any condition except junk......

More congratulations are in order...... Just finally cured the rear main seal leak on fourth try. Used rope style seal soaked in oil and maybe a little more carefully. I think a rope had been used before w/o success. I don't care now as long as it keeps dry. (Car was finished in 2010.....) Bill

I believe the leak is gone. A rope type seal, soaked in oil for a day or so, finally worked. To dispel the idea the journal was out of round, a dial indicator was used and the journal passed the test. Fourth time is a charm.....I hope. Bill

Hi Don, They are fiberglass. I thought they would be easier to handle than steel. The clips that come with them don't work as well as they could. They are little 'c' clamps that are not deep enough to grab both the fender and the skirt too well. A fellow in Hemet, Ca is a good source for either fiber glass or steel. Bill

Good luck. Keep me posted. Bill

Thanks again for all your replies. I think this dead horse is about beat to death. I will make sure my guy has read all these replies. I think he may have tried an NOS seal, but not sure. He said last time he was getting a seal from some old guy to use and I assumed it was something like that anyway. Bill

Thanki all of you for your responses. I have searched this forum for all of this subject and printed out for my mechanic. He is doing all this work free gratis, standing behind his original work. I can't tell you right now what different seals he has used, but there has been several. He subbed out the machine work. I talked to the one I thought he had used, but it turned out be be someone else. I will ask him to have whoever it was, to check their records. This was done in 2007. Harold, my mechanic says he will have to either pull the engine or dismantle the front end to get the timing chain olff, etc., to drop the crank out. He lowered it some to get the top seal in, but not all the way out. I trust him implictly with the car. He has had the damn thing about as long as I have.... but I know he's not enjoying it quite as much. Thanks again for all your ideas. I have even tried to contact the original owner to ask if it had a problem before the rebuild. I'm sure it didn't but anything is worth a try. I feel like a 'steer'......

Bob, as mentioned in thread, this engine received a complete rebuild. It has leaked from the beginning, and seems to get worse with each different new seal???? The tranny has been dropped and as far as I know, the crank was dropped to installed the top seal. An out-of-round journal sounds like a possibility. ??????

Well, if everyone is not too pissed off at me for not updating this....... The PROBLEM still exists. I have lost track of the number of times a new seal has been installed. Four, I believe, using different types of seals. It seems like the problem is worse each time. I have search this forum for various solutions. The most viable I have found is an out-of-round crank journal. If anyone has any other ideas, please respond. All I'm asking for is just one itty bitty MIRACLE!!! Regardless what MrEarl has said, I have run out of Depends and my office chair is a mess!

You have to squint to see past those mini's....

Will you take $25.00 plus shipping? Thanks, Bill

Showing off my Best of Show trophy. El Cajon, CA Cruise nite 25 August 2012

Hell, Mom had one of those things on top of the old Plymouth. That's how she took chickens to market. Bill

Beautiful color.......

Harold's Automotive delivering the car to my driveway after maintenance.

Thank you all for your responses. More RPMs were needed to be able to locate the leak. Residual oil from the leak hid the actual source of the leak which otherwise would have been fairly easy to spot. Bill

Houston, we have a problem. My engine has leaked oil since it was reinstalled after a complete rebuild. Source is at rear of engine. Rear main seal replaced with no result. Additive has been used in oil to help identify where it is coming from. Still could not see precisely where oil was coming from using every device known to man. Have pulled transmission in order to see better. Prepared engine so it could be run in place. NOW THE DAMN THING WILL NOT LEAK! Has anyone experienced a similar situation??? The leak has not dirtied up the bottom of the car, but after parked for 30 minutes there was a 5 inch puddle of oil. Leak would stop after time. The car in in the hands of a mechanic who has probably 30 years of experience with old cars and Buicks. Bill

Too much of a 'work in progress' for me Roberta. Couldn't make sense of it. Bill

BTT

Part number are: For the bigger pair, 1239471 and 7959 with symbols CP DD For the smaller pair, 883087, and the symbols shown above. Anyone have a parts manual????? Thanks, Bill

I have four of these and have no idea what they are off of. They are two different pairs and appear to be a Mopar part. They have pretty nice chrome and are solid metal. Any ideas??? Bill Madden

Just a couple general observations. I found from experience the best way to embarrass yourself is to put your top up at a car show, without running the engine to keep the battery charge up. That 'starter motor', which is what your pump motor is, takes a bunch of amps to run. And, a wild guess is that you are making that common mistake of jumping to 'concussions' by acting first on the most serious problem you can think of, which might be a bad switch rather than the diverter valve. You might want to solicit this Forum for the cylinder(s) you need. Bill

Figure $60,000.00 plus to restore and it doesn't look quite so good..... Bill