carbdoc

Charles, Worn timing gears (and/or stretched chain) will create the symptoms of vapor lock and heat-soak. Pull the distributor cap off, "rock" the crank back-and-forth and watch the movement of the rotor to see how much slop is in the timing system. Crank should not rotate more than about six degrees before the rotor moves. Good luck. Jeff

66GT, Congrats on the 1st Junior. I mounted my "HPOF" and "AACA Touring" medallions through the horizontal or vertical grille slots of my '60s - '70s Mopars, using the brackets which Jay Wolf recommended in conjunction with long #4-40 brass screws and nuts. I simply cut the mounting protrusion off and used the now-oval bracket as a backing plate on the inside of the grille, then ran the screws through both the medallion and the backing plate and installed the nuts. Once secured, I have had no problems with them shifting up, down or sideways. Jeff Dreibus

Reid, My suggestion is not as high-tech as Ivan's, but here it is: The probable reason that the pump piston is frozen is that the bowl is made from pot-metal prior to the mid-1930s. The pot-metal cast during this period had a tendancy to "swell" (due to a high lead content, it is said). I would recommend removing the plug directly below the accelerator pump, then removing the jet above it into which the metering rod (affixed to the bottom of the pump) recesses. You may have to make a special "forked" tool to remove the jet, particularly if the piston (hence metering rod) is frozen toward the bottom of the bore. With the jet out, insert a hollow drift of less than 1/4" O.D. (I use brass hobby tubing) which will just fit though the jet bore yet whose I.D. will fit around the metering rod. Then proceed to drive out the piston from the bottom. You will need to clean the pison thoroughly, then try to fit it back into the bore. You probably won't be able to do so without LIGHTLY sandpapering the inside ot the bore. Don't treat the pot-metal casting too roughly during any part of this operation or it will break -- it is very weak. Good Luck! Jeff

Dan, Does the carb have a bowl drain plug? If so, remove it and see if gas runs out. If it does, the carb is getting fuel. Of course, the gas must be clean and fresh; if not, this may be what is keeping your car from running. Good luck. Jeff

Greg, Have you tried one of Wirthco's low-profile knife switches in that '60 Buick application? Its blade swings in an horizontal instead of vertical arc. Go to www.wirthco.com and you can see a picture of it online. It may or may not work; I couldn't get it (or any other design) to work on an '87 Jeep due to clearance, but I've found one to work on all of my other vehicles just as you did. Good luck. Jeff

Oakland, I wonder if all Marvels have the model number stamped onto that flange; if so, I have apparently overlooked it. Are you finding this on the "Marvel Heat Control System" casting, or on the iron casting which houses the choke and the air valve below it? Manuel, Call V.E. Peterson in Wahlbridge, OH at 800-537-6212 and ask for "Jack"; he's the obsolete carb parts guy. Peterson is the biggest Zenith parts outlet in the U.S. and if they don't have the parts or info for you, nobody does. But please DON'T tell them that I gave you their toll-free number when you call from the other side of the world, OK? Jeff

Frank, The gentleman with whom you spoke in Carlsbad, New Mexico was F.C. Williamson, a trusted colleague of mine. He unfortunately passed away about a year ago. F.C. was the one who taught me what I am about to tell you. There were two versions of the Carter brass bowl carb used on the '29 Chevy, one in early-'29 and one in late-'29. The first version is best identified by its short, stubby accelerator pump cylinder; it is not a particularly good carburetor, hence the reason for the change-over. The second carb has a tall, skinny accelerator pump cylinder (3+ inches long) and is a much better choice for restoration. I hope that you have the second type. If you have any questions, just holler. Jeff

Rand, I was supposed to send you a copy of the Marvel information I have -- sorry! I will get it out to you tomorrow, but I warn you: it is only "so helpful". The best way I have found to use it is to cross-reference the jet and fitting numbers to the carb with which you are currently working. The "10-" numbers on the choke/air valve body don't always tell the whole story -- and I'm not even sure that they are referenced on the spec sheet (I don't have it in front of me right now)! Jeff

Frank, You are absolutely justified. I had a 1988 GMC K-series (only new vehicle I ever owned). It had plenty of electrical gremlins: turn signal flasher failed at regular intervals, brake light switch would not stay adjusted, needlesssly complex (and failure-prone) "graphic" AC/heat controls. I did not know about their tendency to fry at the dash, but it does not surprise me. My "modern" ride is now an '88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer: just as electrically under-engineered as a Chrysler, but at least its areas of failure are more predicatble than that GMC. Your '60 Windsor had a generator hence a different regulator which is probably not mounted up high on the left inner fender where as my alternator-equipped '61's was located -- right in the path of all of the rainwater pouring in between the hood and the fender. Chrysler was aware that voltage regulators filling with water was a problem back in '61, too; I've seen the service bulletin. Their solution: glue a 6" length of weatherstrip above the regulator to deflect the water! How very professional. Jeff

Bonnevillains, Glenn is right: you probably do have a vacuum leak somewhere, but please be aware that your carburetor was not installed by the factory. To my knowledge, the first installation of a 4-barrel carb on a GM product was 1952. There is nothing wrong with installing this set-up on your car as long as it was done right. And do have someone knowledgable check to be certain that the correct gasket was indeed used between the carburetor and the bowl as suggested. Jeff Dreibus

Ken, Lack of a fuse is part of the reason my Chrysler's harness cooked; the voltage regulator was supposed to include an internal fuse which might have prevented the short, but it did not. Who opens up the case and checks for the presence of a fuse when one replaces a regulator? Well, I do . . . now. For good measure, I have now incorporated a waterproof in-line 5-amp fuse into my regulator field harness and hidden it beneath the regulator. All of my Mopar electrical nightmares have involved 12-volt vehicles. If you under-engineer any electrical system sufficiently, there is no limit to its probability of dramatic failure. I firmly believe that Chrysler and Lucas had a foreign-exchange program in place to provide each other with underqualified engineers in case of an emergency. In fact, I just now finished performing some electrical repairs on wifey's '71 Chrysler 300 which goes through ignition switches and signal flashers like Sherman went through Georgia . . . but we still wouldn't trade our Chryslers (or Rovers) for anything else, would we? Jeff

Ken, I will jump back in here and give a big "Amen" to the comments made by Ron and Frank. Also, I will observe that you probably don't own a Chrysler product; otherwise, the answer would be obvious! Mopars had notoriously under-engineered electrical systems and, when you own one and associate with other Chrysler owners, you quickly become familiar with the term "Mopar flambe'" (don't fuss at me, Frank, 'cause we both know it's true). I wish I had had a Wirthco knife switch installed on my '61 Chrysler on July 4, 2001 when the wiring harness burned. As I waited my turn to join the town's Fourth of July Parade, the voltage regulator filled with "liquid sunshine" (yes, the regulator was that poorly-located) and shorted out. Poof: the wiring harness was on fire! I am fortunate that I don't have a permanment tattoo of a battery terminal scorched into the palm of my right hand from grabbing the terminal and twisting it loose before the harness could take the rest of the car with it. This is not the only electrical system "horror story" I have accumulated over decades of Mopar ownership, but it may be the most dramatic. These multiple Mopar misadventures have made me battery shut-off "convert". Jeff

Packin31, That's probably OK; just be sure to have the bolts good and loose, and don't apply too much radial torque to the battery posts as you "twist" the terminals to get them to release or seat. Jeff

Biggarmike, Are you perhaps related to Rube Goldberg? Jeff

ex98th, See my earliest post on this thread (9-26-06). The website address is www.wirthco.com. And yes, I know that they sell the "green knob" version, too, but the knife switch is the ONLY way to go unless you have a clearance problem -- or just enjoy the smell of melting plastic. Seriously: a poor connection at the knob's contact "footprint" is typical of this design and can damage the battery (as mentioned above) or, worse, damage just about everything else in the electrical system. When powered accessories can't get enough voltage, they try to make up for it with amperage draw. Amps = heat. You get the picture . . . Jeff

Not that I know of, and I have been around Mopars most of my life. If I may ask: what, exactly, are you trying to do? Jeff

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We've got the "green knob" on 8 of our cars (4 on a 6 volt, 4 on 12 volt cars) and we have had absolutely no trouble. </div></div> Keep some Channel-Lock pliers and some dielectric grease handy -- the day your electrical system goes dead (usually while trying to start the car) you'll be glad you have them on hand. Unless they have inproved the design, the critical contact area between upper half of the terminal the bottom of the knob is just plain inadequate, and it is here that the bad connection occurs. Jeff

Jon37 (and everybody), Buy a knife-type cutoff switch made by Wirthco and you will throw rocks at the "green knob" switch for ever more. I used to use the green knob, but now I use the knife switches exclusively on all of my vehicles. While they are more expensive, I have yet to replace one. Jeff

Oakland, Just found this thread. I can help you address the more subtle problems which COULD exist as part of carburetion; the rest I don't know about. Marvel carbs of your era used a crscent-shaped pot metal air valve baffle in the throat. The pot metal quality was poor and the baffle would swell, causing it to bind with the movable tongue-shaped air valve. With the movement of the air restricted, full power could not be developed (and it often caused idling and acceleration problems, too). Does your car have a Marvel Heat Control Valve above the carb? If so, it will be a separate chunk of cast iron which contains the throttle valve. The steel sleeve insert (or throat) in this heat jacket typically burns out; this causes all manner of problems, too. If the heat contol is still connected to the exhaust, it will cause your engine to gulp spent exhaust gasses. If not, it creates a vacuum leak. I suggest you remove these componenets and inspect them closely for the above problems. If you find that either one is the cause, you may then contact me at 800-945-2272 and I will advise you on how to repair it. Good luck. Jeff

Z, Also try Steer & Gear in Columbus, OH. Price should probably be in the $300 - $400 range, 2-3 week turn-around. They ar the only ones I use. Good luck. Jeff

Charlie, Sounds like you need to send that steering gear out to Steer & Gear in Columbus, OH and have it overhauled. Adjusting the gear and installing radial tires will help somewhat, but driving it will still be a challenge -- especially in the rain! Jeff

John, I'll admit that Joe could be describing a Schebler Model L on a much earlier car (I don't think a Model R was ever used on Buick), but I'm sure you'll agree that the basic upgrading/restoration process of such a carb remains largely the same. Jeff

Peter, In Don Bunn's "Illustrateed Dodge Pickup Buyer's Guide", I found an apparently vintage photo which looks just like those trucks pictured on this thread. The caption reads, "In 1920 Dodge Brothers screenside was in its third year of production. Its appearance was unchanged from 1918. This truck has a payload capacity of 1,000 lb., hence the half-ton rating." Not much exists in the actual text which is relevant. A depot hack typically had an all-wood passenger body, not a steel pickup bed, and to my knowledge Dodge Brothers never built one (though I bet some body builder did). Rest assured that a screenside is every bit as desirable as a depot hack. Your last post seems to suggest that you bought this project. Good luck; I am sure that the result will be rewarding. Jeff Dreibus

Joe, Late-50s Chrysler products with their torsion bar front and leaf-spring rear suspension were the best handling and riding cars, hands down. Tom McCahill actually compared the handling of a new '57 Imperial to that of a contemporary Jaguar! Braking is another matter: back then, Chrysler had something called "Centerplane" brakes which used one wheel cylinder per brake shoe. This basic system was used up through 1962, and I am not impressed with how it stops my '61 Chrysler Newport with non-power brakes even after a thorough overhaul. Hard as it is for this die-hard Mopar guy to admit, your Chevy's braking characteristics are probably better. Jeff Dreibus

Joe, Unless it has been replaced with a Schebler, I bet your dad's Buick has a Marvel; that is what came on Buicks exclusively through at least '35. The Marvel has a "cap" (bowl lid), the Scebler doesn't. By the way, we can fix that flooding Marvel here at The Old Carb Doctor. We would update the needle-and-seat system to accept a common-design viton-tipped needle, and manufacture a new cork float with a special coating which modern gas won't harm. This is only part of what we include in a complete carb restoration. Call 800-945-2272 for more details. Jeff Dreibus