OldCarCharlie

Hi Jon and thanks for all the help. The other night I was prowling in the shop and found my Shop Manual for the 1950 Buick(the Bible) and it shows a very detailed carb and nice step by step instructions(4-5 pages). It also covers everything you suggested. I will dig back into the carb this weekend and am 99.9% certain I can it to pump. Once again Jon, thanks and thanks to all the other help. UB

I know it will be some simple fix, yet this Okie cannot for the world keep this engine from vapor locking after running for 30 minutes or so. Original 6 cylinder engine, rebuilt a few years back by an old timer. I have tried numerous tricks, heat shield(alumiun foil) did not help, timing(advance, retard) did not help much, could it be the fuel? thanks, charles

Hi Jon, the discharge check valve. Is it located under the pump return spring? If so I will try and take it apart, have not yet. Looking at the parts list/diagram I am not finding an inlet check valve. However I am finding another check valve for the the discharge jets that I missed. Charles

On my 2nd tear down and put back together. Missed one point on the destructions(instructions) about lightly oiling pump skirt and flaring it out. I oiled(wd40) it and flared it, now it will not go into the pump slot as easily. I think I may have over flared it or do these things need to be flared out when installing???? Geezz, with all this trouble I would have been better off getting a rebuilt one on eBay. Oh well, it seems better when you do it yourself and figure it out huh!!! Why let a professional have all the fun!!! With a big enough wrench and will power a fella can do just about anything he or she sets their mind to! Charles

Hi Bill, unbolt the Motor Mounts and lift the engine up a few inches until the bolts clear whatever is in the way. W-D 40 or lube the manifold nuts/studs several days before. Charles

Help, I did something wrong. The carb gummed up over last winter and when I went to pull her out it would not idle. Seems the pump wore out, so I have installed a new kit and she still will not pump. I took my time, dipped the parts, blem them out, rinsed and dried them all. I am fixxing to redo them all in hopes I missed something. Otherwise any and all advise will be helpful. Thanks

Howdy, someone stole our restored Wagon and it was returned stripped. We currently need the Rear Side Glass for both sides. Any help would be appreciated. regards, Charles whownts2brich@aol.com

Over time have aquired several sets of Fender Skirts. This set is marked with Factory Oldsmobile Numbers/Lettering. They are Fibreglass, marked "Oldsmobile" "PT. 22502331 LH" "TP I 50997 LH" "SMC" and "CAV " . They have to be later model due to the CAV or Canada mark and fibreglass. Any help will be welcome, please email at whownts2brich@aol.com. regards, Charles

UBB7-ML-242889-ML- Charlie...Welcome to the AACA Forum. Moved your query to the Tech Section. There are many knowledgeable people, of whom, should offer assistance shortly. If you opt, click on the "SEARCH" icon at the top of this page. Fill in the blanks. There are quite a few painting topics that have been posted over the years. Regards, Peter J.

Been a few years since I have sprayed. Always used Lacquer because of it being forgiving and easy to wet/sand the runs. Now it seems rumour has it that "Lacquer" automotive paints are no longer available. Was wondering if anyone knows if this is true or just a "Rumour"! If they are no longer available, what paints are available and easy for an old timer to use? I am not looking for show or trailer queen, just a decent daily driver type. thanks, Charles