carbdoc

Leon, A gentleman in Australia reproduces new castings for Stromberg U-series carbs. He then builds them up using recycled hardware. Look at his website, www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com, and see if he might reproduce the U-2 castings for your Chrysler; I believe that he probably does. Good luck.

Bryan, I can't believe you are selling your '60 Windsor! Hope it is because you have found a Mopar which you like even more. I wish my '61 Chrysler Newport was as nice as Pearl. Folks, I've seen this car and it is really nice. Whoever buys it will be getting an amazing Chrysler product!

Oakland, Actually, your problem is most likely fuel pump warpage. Remember how wavy the diaphragm mating surface of the pump was? Well, the recessed area above the sediment bowl gets the same way. Here is the test: remove the bowl, gasket and screen from the pump. Now hold the bowl in place without the gasket and attempt to noticably "rock" it back and forth. It it does so, enough warpage is present to keep it from developing adequate vacuum for consistent fuel delivery. Since it is from 1929 (a bad year for pot metal) it probably cannot be heated and straightened without cracking. Call Antique Auto Parts Cellar again and describe the pump to Tom. He will sell you a new one.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Asheville meet is the same day/weekend as the annual National Buick Club of America meet. It is in Rochester, MN this year and I know alot of the Buick people will be heading there instead of the Asheville show. </div></div> As is the Walter P. Chrysler Restorer's Club meet in not-too-distant (for me) Willimsburg, VA <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> . . . but this old Mopar guy will be in Asheville, supporting AACA!

Andy, Try Jeff Carter at JC Auto in Lynwood, WA at jcauto@eskimo.com. He specializes in parts for these vehicles, and I occasionally buy parts from him for my '61 Newport and other Chryslers. Somethimes, if you can find a heater core whose basic dimensions are close to yours, you can have a competent radiator shop graft the tubes and frame from the old one onto the new one. This is what we had to do to replace the one in our 1971 Chrysler 300. But please try Jeff Carter first.

Currently, we have the "big washer" system in our '61 Chrysler which was not delivered with seat belts. We tried to loctate them as best we could in cross-braced areas, but choices were limited at the driveshaft tunnel mounting points. What sort of installation do my fellow AACAers recommend? And where do I get the materials, or is it a "scratch-made" proposition?

Clincher, The short answer is "No, but . . ." You can have any competent machine shop which is used to working with small parts turn the needle tip and the seat orifce. This will make it work for a while. At my carburetor shop I replace the steel needle tip with a viton tip (requires "surgery")and recondition the seat as well which should last for about ten years, but only as part of a comprehensive functional and cosmetic restoration ($$$!). And yes, we are very familiar with the Stromberg OE series. If you feel that the needle valve is the sole culprit, I'd go the machine shop route for now. BTW, shake the float and see if it "sloshes"; if so, it has a leak and is part of your problem, too. I wish you luck, and feel free to PM me if you want more details on my service. Jeff

Ted, Do you have the old one? If so, I can clean it up and put a new spring in it. Cost: about $25 plus shipping. PM me with your phone number if you wish to discuss it further.

I restore carburetors professionally, and I recently restored a Stromberg EE-23 carburetor for a 1935 Packard Straight Eight. The carburetor does not leak visibly when left full of fluid overnight, but the technician who installed it on the car complains of a significant amount of fuel pouring from the drain valve which Packard engineered beneath the intake manifold. It only does this immediately after the engine is shut down, suggesting that fuel is collecting in the manifold as the engine runs. It requires only a short time of idling to cause this to happen, so it is not fuel percolation. Understandably, the tachnician blames the carburetor. I have tested this carburetor in my shop (off the car) every way I know and I can't get it to leak -- but then, it is not mounted on a running engine. My only theory: some Stromberg carbs have check valves in the idle jet tubes, but this one does not. I cannot verify whether it is supposed to have them. Could this be causing the problem? Or is there some other problem unique to these cars with which one of my fellow AACAers might have some experience?