60FlatTop

John D. How do you like this picture? Check the Bugle sidebar for Bennett's. Bernie

Pat, Sometimes things bolt together with a bit of strain. If it was my car I would slightly loosen the major component bolts and run the engine gently. That would be the motor mounts, transmission mount, and bell housing bolts. You might find there is/was a binding point. Test between the tightening of each component. If my memory is right, I read a similar process in the 1939 Buick shop manual years ago. One last thought, check that your starter is not dragging on the flex plate. Bernie

Steelman had the same thoughts as I did. I have a Cadillac LaSalle II re-badged as a Buick Riviera.

I am the BCA 1991-1996 BCA Tech Advisor. I liked reading the string of messages. The Roadmasters are great cars. I have a website, Untitled Document, that I never got going very well. It does have a link to the Impala SS Forum and they include, Roadmasters, Fleetwoods, Caprices, and Old Custom Cruisers. It is a very active forum. Any question I have ever had was answered there. There is a for sale section and the prices of these cars has been coming down, even the Impala SS. The newest model is 14+ years old now and "modern" cars do not age well. Up here in the rust belt, western New York, things are getting bad. Even a clean southern car still has routine expendables to be concerned with. Tune Ups are due every 120,000 to 150,000 miles. They are $600 jobs done right. The ABS and brake line replacements can cost twice as much or more. Anyone who has replaced the rear brake hose on one of these cars has a story to tell, and at 15 years that and a lot more needs replacement. Rust behind the rear wheel openings is common as well as floor rust. My first suggestion would be to avoid the analytical buying process. The cost of any car is the "entry fee". Additional repairs are always more than calculated. Buying an old car SHOULD be a no brainer. Buy it with feelings and not common sense. If I can walk away from a car and look at things objectively I know it's not the car for me. The one I want leaves me in fear that someone will buy it while I am scraping up the money. My best cars have been the ones that turned my stomach in knots because I wanted them so bad. My 1964 Riviera was one of those cars during the three days it took to purchase in 1978. Every illogical car purchase I have made has been exciting. I don't remember the analytical ones. My answer to the first question would be to walk away. As soon is you buy it the one that drives you nuts will come along; Too many cars, Too little money.

Here is a picture of my 1956 Willys-Overland. Sold on Ebay a few years ago but I always liked this picture:

I am underway. A squeaky U-Joint on a '60 with the enclosed drive shaft is a bit of a job. After the rear end rolls back the bottom gets detailed, new exhaust, and new tires to make it nice in Danvers, Ma. My daughter lives 30 miles away and informed me it is pronounced "Denvis". I painted the Riviera around 1980 and it's due for a refreshing. Conversations were held on that project New Years Eve. It's a good year for Buicks in Brockport.

Thanks for the tip, Restorer. My Virginia friend is Larry Springer, Jagware. Actually, business demands have put me in a position to offer him the Mark VII and a huge collection of accumulated parts, not terribly expensive considering a running rust free project car as the base @ $7500. I still have my '64 Riv and the '60 Electra; owned the Riv for 32 years now. I have really gained a lot of knowledge from owning 4 Jags over the years. I am hoping to work hard for a year or so and buy a driver condition XK 140.

Hi Brian, Bernie Daily from Brockport, New York. Pretty close to Batavia where my BCA chapter hosted the 2005 Nats.

The large sedans used the same basic drive train. Most mechanical parts interchange. Here is a picture of where I spent Labor Day Saturday, sitting on the little blue stool.

I just bought some Jaguar Mark VII parts in Yreka, Ca. I sent an email to my friend there to follow up. Restoration is a painful word. It is a little easier to take a "component restoration" approach. Before you sink the $80,000 for a budget resto, you can put $5,000 to $7,500 into the things that make the car steer, start, and stop. Those are things that need to be done anyway and give you a very usable car in a short time frame. You can drive it safely and decide if it is really for you. It reminds me of the first time I drove a Ford Model T. I thought about the guys who had taken years to restore one and that was all they had after the work... : ) I know I'm bad but I sure like my Buicks. Bernie

Here is mine.

The best thing to do is spend the money for a knowledgeable appraisal. The car will sell quickly when priced right. Fishing for a price or asking for offers in most cases scares off the real buyers. The bottom feeders show up and low ball an owner into depression. I have seen a lot of "inherited" cars rot into the ground due to uniformed pricing. As for the TV auctions, I will stick to watching professional wrestling. There is more reality in the wrestling. Bernie

Great! Thank you.

Wanted- 1980's style aluminum turbine wheels used on Estate Wagons. 15' 5X5. I need one wheel and three hubcaps. What do you have? Bernie Daily dailyops@frontiernet.net

I once had a customer with a '53 Cadillac. The heater valve had leaked under the dash and ruined his carpets. It was a car he only drove in the summer and his wife still remembers how hot the under-seat heater could be when it was out of control. Since he did not use the heater, we soldered nominal 1/2" copper caps on the valve. The actual diameter is 5/8" so the hoses slid right over and it looked fine, just no heat, no leaks. It might be a fix for Missouri summers. Bernie

If you click the link a slide show and song start. Bernie

Hi, I thought some would enjoy the show my son made from a collection of pictures I had. The car and the song are both 1960. http://www.brockportinternational.com/60buickbomp.wmv Bernie Daily

When I had the body off my '64 Riviera I went to the Chevy dealership in town and just asked for 1976 full sized Chevy rubber. They worked great. I reused to two oval ones in the rear. They were different but still in good shape. Bernie

I have had this Chevy almanac for years. It is complete and shows some shelf wear. Nice colors and ads. Located in Brockport, New York. $20 includes mailing. Thanks, Bernie

I have a new T top bag for the last generation Camaro and Firebird. It is new and came from a large stock of stuff from Chevy dealer. $45 + about $8 shipping. In Brockport, NY.

Jaguar Lover's http://www.jag-lovers.org/ is a great place for owners who have time to research their cars. I use it a lot. It might not be good for a shop when the time clock is ticking, though. Bernie

Thanks for the fast reply. If took less time than removing the booster! Nice Riviera, Jim. I bet you have seen mine. I have flashed it a lot on the old Riviera list. http://www.brockportinternational.com/xjs/Dir5/0002.JPG and the '60 http://www.brockportinternational.com/xjs/Dir5/60%20Buick/fam%20046.jpg

My 1960 Electra needs a master cylinder and booster rebuild. I would like to find a MC kit and vacuum diaphram. Next a service to rebuild mine, hopefully to re-cad. Next would be a rebuilt unit. Bernie Daily dailyops@frontiernet.net 585-637-6348

I need L & R side front fender port hole trim from a 1977 to 1979 Electra. Must have four simulated openings. Nice used ones would be fine. Bernie Daily 585-637-6348 dailyops@frontiernet.net Thank you.

I need L & R side front fender port hole trim from a 1977 to 1979 Electra. Must have four simulated openings. Nice used ones would be fine. Bernie Daily 585-637-6348 Thank you.