sean1997

I'm guessing that '58 is the same as '57 and that you could order the Special with the 4bbl in Canada. It might make it more valuable if you could prove that it came from the factory with a 4bbl.

For a number 2 car, about $20,000-$22,000. Just out of curiosity, does it have a 2bbl or 4bbl?

For value, when you say Riviera, do you mean 2 door hardtop, 4 door hardtop, or hardtop station wagon, and what series, Special, Century, Super, Roadmaster. The Riviera was available in them all. Riviera simply meant hardtop up until '63 when it was introduced as its own model. As for value of being Canadian, I think something like that is in the eye of the collector. My car is a 4 door, to most guys that is nothing more than a parts car. But I passed up many nice 2 doors when looking for my car because to me a 4 door has more value because I like to take my friends cruising with me and I find that more fun in a 4 door. My car is also factory Seminole Red and Oxford white two tone, which makes it more "valuable" too me. A Canadian car might be more valuable to someone from Canada or someone who collects foreign/export cars. Now if there is something unique about a foreign/export car, then it may have more value to a collector. For example, I think some of the '63-'65 Riviera's exported to Europe had 200 km/h speedometers and that makes them more interesting to collectors. For '57 the U.S. version of the Special was only available with a Carter or Stromberg 2bbl carb and the Century/Super/Roadmaster came with either a 4bbl Carter or Rochester. The same was true for Canadian cars, except you could get the 4 bbl Carter on the Special. Now that's interesting to me and it might make such a car more valuable to a collector. Post a few more details about the car and I'm sure someone can give a range for the value.

There were '57 Buicks built in Canada, so I assume the same is true for '58. I even have a Canadian "1957 Buick Maintenance Manual" which is similar to the US "Chassis Service Manual". Here is a link giving some info about '57 Canadian built cars, probably similar for '58: http://www.teambuick.com/reference/years/57/57_vin.html It also shows all of the codes for the US assembly plants: CODE/ASSEMBLY PLANT 1 Flint, MI 2 South Gate, CA 3 Linden, NJ 4 Kansas City, KS 5 Wilmington, DE 6 Atlanta, GA 7 Framingham, MA 8 Arlington, TX

Thanks for all of the advice. I think I will check the local upholstery shops and see what they have available for board. I figured I would have to make one.

My '57 Special didn't have a rear deck package tray/shelf when I bought it, not even one to use as a pattern. I think they were made of cardboard and maybe covered with fabric. I've looked around but haven't been able to find any place that sells new ones. So before a make one, I was just wondering if anyone knows of a place that sells them. Thanks,

1952 Buick shop manual has both the 4bbl Stromberg Aeroquad 4A (model 4AUV-267) and Carter WCFB (no. 894) for the 70 series. 2bbl Carter model WCD and 2bbl Stromberg model AAUVB are listed as being used on 40 and 50 series. Sorry I don't have a Canadian manual for '52.

The 4bbl was standard on the '52 Roadmaster and only available on the Roadmaster. Is there power steering on the '52 Roadmaster (first year for power steering in Buick)? Did you check the '59's for posi rear ends? I think '59 is the first year for posi and they bolt right into a '57.

So based on what Marty said I decided to check my Master Chassis Parts Book 1940-1963 and here is what I found: Group 0.333 Arm, Valve Rocker: 1957-58 All (R.Frt. & L. RR.) High Pwr. Equip., 1175508, $3.25, arm, 8 per car 1957-58 All (L.Frt. & R. RR.) High Pwr. Equip., 1175509, $3.25, arm, 8 per car Group 0.426 Rod, Valve Push: 1957-58 All High Pwr. Equip., 1174699, $1.10, rod, 16 per car Group 0.429 Stud, Valve Push Rod Adjusting Ball: 1953-58 All V8 High Pwr. Equip., 1171076, $0.35, screw, 16 per car 1953-58 All V8 High Pwr. Equip., 1171073, $0.10, adj. screw nut, 16 per car Group 0.459 Lifter, Valve: 1957-58 All High Pwr. Equip., 1179775, $2.50, lifter, 16 per car Group 0.519 Camshaft: 1957-58 All High Pwr. Equip., 1179701, $50.00, use with high pwr. equip. lifter 0.459 only, 1 per car Group 0.629 Piston and Pin 1957-58 (11-1 Compr. Ratio) Buick high power equipment, 1388026 (std.), $11.50, 8 per car 1957-58 (11-1 Compr. Ratio) Buick high power equipment, 1388027 (.010"), $11.50, 8 per car Group 3.270 Gasket, Manifold: 1957-58 All High Pwr. Equip., 1173705, $0.85, gasket less heat holes, 2 per car There are similar listings for 1953-56 (but nothing after '58). I don't know about the rest of the items, but you can still buy intake gaskets with the heat risers blocked off from Poston Enterprises: http://www.postonbuick.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=PE947320

Les- Did you ever find any mounting instructions? I have a ’57 and I’m looking for some instructions as well. I think ’57 and ’58 would probably be similar since the mounting bracket is the same. I noticed that Bob’s Bob's Automobilia sells reproduction tissue dispensers, so maybe they have instructions.

I have never heard of the high performance kit, however Russ Martin has a picture of a factory experimental 2x4 intake for the 364 on his website (click on 4th picture from right in top row): http://www.nailheadbuick.com/nail/nailhead.html I have also seen a factor experimental 3x2 intake for the 264/322. It had the factory X experimental stamp on it and even has a part number that starts with 117: http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130766&d=1233023768 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=158310

I can't help with the parts, but for the horn part numbers my book lists: Group 2.810 1957 All 9000443 Horn, low note (R.) 1957 All 9000444 Horn, high note (L.) 1958 All 9000444 Horn, high note (R.) 1958 All 9000413 Horn, low note (L.) Maybe you can tell by the bracket if they mount on the right or left side.

Steve- Thanks for the info, unfortunately the radio delete plate from a '56 won't fit. The delete plate is the same for '57 and '58. I found a listing for the part: group number 9.740 and part number 1174987 for '57-'58 radio delete plate. I have attached a picture of what the '57-'58 delete plate looks like.

Dan- I think the one that Mike has is also a clock delete plate. I will try and set something with him and if it doesn't work out I will let you know. Mike- I sent you a PM. Thanks,

I'm looking for radio and clock delete plates that fit a '57 Special. Let me know what you have. Thanks,

According to Hollander Interchange 32nd edition, they will interchange in sets. It has a note that says "watch interchange between lighter and heavier duty sets", so you probably want to get some from a Super or Roadmaster.

I have a used cable that is complete with both cables and the adjuster. The upper cable is frayed near the end, but it is intact. I could mail it to you and you can use it to get any dimensions you need or use it as a model to make a new one. You can mail it back when you are done with it. CARS has a NOS upper cable for sale: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/commerce/product_info.php?cPath=95_100&products_id=18633

No, I haven't found any yet. I did contact Steele Rubber some time ago, but they didn't have anything in the works then. Maybe they've had enough requests now to see that the demand is there. I have a spare NOS upper and lower clutch cable right now, but it would be good to find someplace that can make new ones. I found this site, which maybe useful if you want to make your own: http://www.flanderscables.com/ Keep me posted if you find anything and the progress on the pedal pads.

Yes, it's a great museum. I'm a member, so I go a couple of times a year. The auction is always on Labor Day weekend, along with the open house and car show. I took my '57 to it this year. Last summer they started construction on a new building in downtown Tacoma. It will be all stressed glass and should be very nice when finished. I think it will hold about 1000 cars, or about 1/3 of their collection.

Do you need front or rear, driver or passenger side? This place has them for both front and rear: http://www.classicfabrication.com/ Here is some place selling some for the front: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-FLO...sspagenameZWDVW

I ran across these ads while surfing today: http://epage.com/js/mi/n0/1786983.html http://epage.com/js/mi/n0/1652680.html Maybe Napa or some other place like Tacoma Screw sells the same studs?

Here is a post on another board from a guy named Jason. He has a '55, but it should be the same for a '58. The threads he used are 1/2"-20. He used 2" long studs because his wheels were thick, so you might not need as long of studs. http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13350 I'm sure NAPA has the same type of studs in different lengths if needed, but you might need to go and talk to them. Here is a link to what he used: Napa wheel studs #641-2156 He also did the Scarebird disk brake conversion in the front. He also mentions what he did in the rear in this thread: http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50235#post50235 I sent him a PM on that board asking for more details about what he did in the rear and here is his reply: ----------------------------------------------- Re: Rear Brake Drums Jason- I saw your post on the "Disc Brake Conversion Customer Testimony & Info" thread about how you swapped the front drums from a Roadmaster to the rear of your car. I would appreciate any info you could give me on the 1/2" studs you used. Did you remove the rear axles from the car to install the studs? Thanks -Sean ----------------------------------------------- Hey Sean, I will post a more complete description later, but for now... 1) Yes the axles have to come out 2) the studs used are NAPA #641-2156. Mine are 1/2-20 thread by 2" long. I am using very wide old uni-lug wheels (1" thick!!) I still have to drill out a little bit of thread and they will fit real snug. 3) the 1/4" spacer I needed to use between the axle hub and the brake drum itself. You will have to put the drums on first and see if you have clearance. On the '54 the drum was almost flat at the face (the part that fits against the wheel) of it, on the '55 the drum angled in away from the wheel. I still need 1/4" for the drum to spin. You might not need that big a spacer? Hope that helps a bit. I don't have any pics yet, but I hope to soon. I will also have to get around to post a bloody knuckle by bloody knuckle description... Cheers, Jason -----------------------------------------------

I just saw this one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1957-58-B...1QQcmdZViewItem

A LaCrosse hybird is already available if you live in China: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/01/22/buick-lacrosse-hybrid-debuts-in-china/

Yes, you can just disconnect the wires, but remember where each one goes. I don't think they make the starter switch anymore, but most rebuilt carbs I have seen had one on them. I don't think it would matter if you removed it, but maybe ask the rebuilder.