HH56

Not sure if you are planning on reusing the armored wire but there have been mentions on Packard forums from people who have said the old cloth and rubber insulation on the wire inside the armor deteriorated & had caused intermittent problems. Something to keep in mind.

If the ground is still positive, that would be the negative terminal. It is fed directly from the ign switch which gets it's power via a tie point on ammeter but ultimately from the same terminal on starter solenoid the battery negative terminal goes to. Not sure which wiring diagram you have but the ones on the PAC site are better than the ones in the manual.

One of the Packard people had the washer go behind the valve and the stem broke off when brakes were applied. There was quite a discussion on one of the other Packard websites about the quality of some compensator valves being supplied. Here is an example of one that was questionable. In the valve on the right, it wasn't sealing properly because the rubber cushion to close the port wasn't deep enough and metal edge could sometimes interfere and prevent a seal. I wonder if possibly your valve came from the same mfg. If there is a quality problem with the rubber quantity aspect, perhaps there is also one with the placement position of the rubber on the shaft. You might have a valve with a different or shorter length stem extending down or one that is marginal.

Packard primarily uses Bendix Treadlevac kits from two vendors-- Max Merritt Max Merrit Auto - Packard Parts & Accessories and Kanter Auto 1955 and 1956 PACKARD PARTS Max has a picture of his complete kit on his site (do search in 48-54 for brake rebuild kit). The only fiber washer in piston area I recall is a small thin one in conjunction with the seal items which would not do much to guide the piston. The piston on the Bendix is held by the rod end located in a socket on the power piston on one end and the bore with steel washer and seals etc on the other end. Did Olds use the actual Bendix unit or the GM Moraine version of it.

For my two cents, the 21st series Custom Clipper is every bit the luxury car the 22-23 series is. The amenities are virtually the same and I prefer their styling over the rather rotund later cars. If anything, I think the Clippers were a bit more upscale. Some do not like vacuum wipers in general which were used in 22-23rd series and thru 56. The Clipper has electric. About the only thing I can think of offhand available on the 22nd series and not available on the Clipper was the hydraulic power windows and the same on 23rd along with the new Ultramatic drive. Just about everything else had comparable or even identical options carried forward. The 356 is a superb and reliable engine and about as smooth & powerful as they come for the inline 8's used until the 359 in 54th series. Downside is it is one of the more difficult and expensive Packard inlines to work on today because of obtaining certain parts with the somewhat limited production and the counterweights on the crank which have to be removed for any machining operations there. Not all machine shops are able or willing to do that. Depending on where the crack is, that might be something to consider as to whether that engine could be repaired or would have to be replaced. I had a cracked cylinder that was repaired nicely with a sleeve. A block might be a different story. The other item is the later 22nd series and going forward had the R11 overdrive option introduced midrun which was an improved and simpler version than the R9 OD used on the Clipper. If you have the option, the same style Electromatic clutch was available on all thru the 23rd series although somewhat of a challenge for some to get adjusted and operating properly and to stay that way.

Think the knuckle/spindle assy is 15.400. Cut off in that pict above but is third arrow from bottom visible on right.

Maybe 15.514 which is called an Arm Assy, Wheel (front) support is what you need? If so, it is listed in group 15.502 for 18th and 19th series models

You'd think there would be a recall program wouldn't you! After all, it's only been 75 years. If you have one of the older established automobile glass shops locally, that would be the place I'd look first. If not, there are some online places that deal with glass and advertise they can fit most anything. Not too sure todays chain glue in a new windshield replacement shops would have the tools, expertise or interest to do the job properly.

I believe you are talking about the safety lamination. A film between which adheres to the inner and outer glass to keep it from shattering when broken. No, it can't be taken apart and cleaned. Typically it starts at the edges with turning a shade of brown and possibly some bubble like areas. If flat glass, most any decent glass shop should be able to use your old for a pattern and cut new ones.

There is always the vendors for rebuilt pumps (exchange yours for a rebuilt) but not the cheapest way to go--roughly $125 plus the core.. Kanter Auto Packard Parts Max Merritt Max Merrit Auto - Packard Parts & Accessories For just a kit, Antique Auto Parts Cellar or better known as Then and Now does cover just about every pump. Postwar pumps are very well covered. Antique Auto Parts Cellar Check out the various other pages listed at the bottom of their first page Roughly $69.50 for your dual action. They will also rebuild yours.

Jack Vines had some assorted brackets last year that he was selling. He may still have them. Believe there was a Lehigh or two mentioned as the compressor that had been on them.

The specs from service counselors appear to indicate the same tire size and rim width dimension however since one is a junior and the other a senior chassis, it would be prudent to throw a tape measure across a couple of holes or lugs and verify the dimensions and the center hole are the same. One other point might be the new wheel. I believe the 52 with one piece threaded bolts needs to have the clearance holes in the wheel to allow the locating or alignment pin to fit. The 56 would have the threaded studs with bolts and no pin so would not need the hole. It would be important to make sure the wire wheel has the holes.

For 53-54, Packard used the Frigidaire unit --essentially the same one as used on Cadillac. If you have specs on that, should be the same. For the 55-6 factory in dash units, evaporator dimensions are 21" long x 5 1/2 high x 4 deep. 6 rows of tubes high and 4 deep. 10 fins/inch. The tubes appear to be 3/8 or slightly less. Suction side line is 5/8 and liquid side to expansion valve is 5/16. Valve connection to evaporator splits into 4 approx 1/8 lines feeding each row of coils. Used a fixed modulator valve for temp control via hot gas bypass. Only control operator had was a single knob operating a combination switch/rheostat which switched unit on and adjusted blower speed. There is a trunk unit which apparently was available via dealer install and possibly even from the factory---that seems to be a question as whether it was actually factory installed though. I have not seen that particular one but strongly suspect it was either the same unit Studebaker used or the ARA trunk unit. Here are some pictures of the 55-6 in dash unit.

Go to PackardInfo.com - General Site News - New Part Cross Reference Database Added - Packard Articles and click on the model info page on the left menu. If the car still has the ID plate, you can identify by the body number from the plate which should start 10xx-xxxx. If you don't have the number of body style, do a view by year or view by series (15th) and you can probably find yours in the photos.

No kits. You're pretty much on your own to determine components and mounting. Many have done it for modern AC and sound equipment. There is a general guide book you can buy here Fifth Avenue Internet Garage to help you figure things out. In a nutshell, you will have to change all bulbs and one or two other components, provide resistors or voltage regulators for almost everything else electrical. Things needed are available at several online electrical places. If your Packard has the original 60 year old dried out cloth and rubber wiring loom, that might be one of the first things you should think about checking or changing.

There is a discussion on various fluids at the Packard Info forum FAQ under Ultramatic Fluid. This is one of those subjects that tend to get a lot of discussion and opinions.

The old type A fluid Packard recommended is long gone. Current recommendation is type F is closest to the type A and should be used if the original bands and clutches are still there but even that is getting harder to find. Several have had good things to say about B&M trick shift, particularly if the car has sat for awhile and is being taken out of hibernation. That is apparently very similar to type F but with some dye and friction modifiers added.

If you will also visit Packard Info, www.packardinfo.com there is a great deal of information available for download on the post war cars. Several members have cars identical to yours and most if not all your questions can be answered there or have answers already in the FAQ section. Many members from the Arizona area post there.

Here is the latch assy from below, above, and the hood piece. If the hood has shifted or out of adjustment or the whole assy is worn, I have seen the pin in the hood assy slide slightly and is not able to clear the latch bar inside the receiver hole by just a tiny amount. The first move of the lever releases that latch but if it catches the edge, it may not pop entirely free. Continued movement of lever retracts the hook assy and it has to clear a slot. If something is worn, bent or out of align that may also not clear completely. On the emblem, it may be possible to drip a few drops of WD40 or maybe dishwashing liquid in the crack and let it sit. I have not tried that but it may soften the rubber without damage. Just be very careful with any prying.

54 horn emblems push down and twist CCW slightly and lift off. The 55-56 plastic center emblem is held on by friction via a rubber O ring in a groove in the emblem. Age and heat have a tendency to make the rubber stick and some almost feel as if glued in. Be very careful with any type tool under the plastic in trying to pry it out. That may be the alternative but the plastic may also be very brittle and a piece may chip off the edge. Wider and thin is better if you have to resort to that. Here is a photo of a senior emblem showing the groove and what happens if it sticks and brute force is used. The safety catch release is inside the grill. There should be a lever just below the wide top edge of grill. Look under that piece about center and you should see a cut out portion for your hand to work the lever

Mal, anything is possible and it could be dealer installed as factory if car wasn't ordered with AC. After production started for 55 a kit was made available for dealers to install the standard 55-6 Packard supplied factory unit. Those would be under the dash with flip up vent doors exiting on the top. Compressor would have been where the oil filter is and a single control knob between the lighter and radio turned it on and adjusted speed. No variable temp control as such. They were factory only at first but later with the kit, dealer as well. If in the trunk, it was more an aftermarket type -- Possibly installed by a dealer before the car was delivered and maybe even a Studebaker supplied unit-- Stude used the trunk type as factory in 56 and also in the 57 Clipperbakers. More likely though is an ARA unit installed by an independent shop. That was a fairly good business to be in as AC started taking off in mid 50's.

The GM compressor and trunk unit was 53-54 Packard. The Lehigh was used in 55-6 with a behind the dash unit. Believe the compressors were also used by some aftermarket AC mfgs. I also have two which need gaskets and reed valves & have had no luck finding any parts. As far as I can find, no one has any parts except the odd overlooked piece that appears occasionally. One poster some time ago mentioned Classic Air as restoring his but unknown if that was cosmetic or actual repair involved.

4 to bring it in, 3 to keep it in after it has pulled in. More info over at your other post.

If the tubes face the back and you can reach all the screws to get the back cover off, maybe. Pretty tight quarters and mostly by feel if you try. These look like they might face frontwards and if so, then no. Getting the tube location key lined up and back in by feel might be a whole new experience in itself and one I wouldn't want to try.

The voltage reducer is worth investigating. Hadn't seen that option before. If you buy the solenoid, be sure to confirm the new one has the correct stem length before committing.