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fred deagostino

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About fred deagostino

  • Birthday 05/08/1952

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  1. Thanks JFranklin, I was just going to go ahead and replace the coil as it had been mounted too close to engine heat for quite awhile so I can't really trust it. So I'm just looking for a coil/resistor combo that will bring my current to the points back in bounds, figuring that someone out there who's done a 12v conversion had already 'been there' and could supply that info. Thanks again, Fred
  2. Gents, I have a '40 Packard eight here (converted to 12v) that is in need of a coil and ballast resistor. I'm using the original Autolite dist. w/ Echlin points (part#CS720A). I've just come to find that the coil I've been using is not a resistor coil after all (Sheeesh !) and so want to rectify the situation. I'm getting misfires when under load. The question here is, does anyone here have a recommendation for a suitable, off the shelf ballasted coil, or seperately ballasted for that matter. Thanks in advance..! Fred
  3. What a great thread! I've been smiling all the way through. Sitting behind me as I write is my '68 Flatside shovel HD old school chopper, I built that between '02-3. Sitting in front of me is my freshly restored '68 Penton Six Day, which I'd bought in '70 (?) sold in '75 to a cousin, and was returned to me by him in '91, finally restored it 2012-13. Over in the corner on a shelf is a framed pic of me sitting on my old 36&39 cobbled together Indian in '72. A 'Rat' bike decades before that became 'fashionable'.
  4. 'First thing I noticed in the pic was the cooler, but I'm voting for chilly bin. It may take me a year or two but a dollar to a donut says I'll have my pals using that instead of 'cooler'. :cool: They tend to follow my lead, which doesn't speak well of their judgment! Thanks NZ !
  5. Hi Packardlover, 'wondering if you'd changed your mind about the parts. No harm no foul if so. Nothing has showed up in the mail and I wanted to make sure your money order hadn't gotten lost or some such thing. yours, Fred
  6. Packard lover, I sent you a PM this AM. 'Seemed like it went OK but does not show up in my 'sent' list. Just wondering if you'd gotten it anyway? Thanks, Fred
  7. I have a few leftovers from my project a few years back that must be of some use to someone: 1937 '110' transmission: The cane has been re-bent at the original bend but can be re-bent to original. I have either the '110' or '120' yokes, whichever one you need. I ran this in my car for three years,it's fine. I switched to an OD. 1940 '120' front drums/hubs w/bearings, no heat checks or grooves. The rears cleaned up with one cut to .020 over. Need to be reconditioned.. 1953-4 (?) 6V OD solenoid (works). 1940 Autolite generator rebuilt, converted to 12V model# GEA-4801A. The shop says it's charging 13.6 V at a 32A draw but it never charged in my car. (?) At any rate I know I paid $135 for the tranny and I don't recall what I paid to have the gen. rebuilt, but $150. buys it all. The catch is you have to take it all, and, pick it up to boot. I'm in NY's mid Hudson Valley. Thanks, Fred
  8. RE: Post #59 Hey! I made the 'Wall of Shame'! I know the thread's a bit stale and I haven't been on in quite some time but believe it or not I actually agree with the restorers lament re: trashing good vehicles. Read on, but first jump over to the gallery and punch in 'Raw Material Rescue' and have a look at the car that yielded my drivetrain. It was due to be crushed in two weeks at the local junkyard. Everything even remotely reusable in a resto was saved and took up a lot of space in a 12 x 12 box stall for two years. I listed it all here on the forum and there were no takers for anything (dirt cheap) so I GAVE it all to the president of the local Packard club just so it might get used. Fair enough? As for the drivetrain keep an eye on the obit's for my demise and buy that jalopy to get the motor and tranny. The motor's had a complete overhaul (including hardened valve seats), conv. to 12V, and is bone stock. This yr. I finally took out the '37 junior tranny and replaced it with a '54? unit with R11 overdrive. That means someday someone who's doing a resto can take the whole shebang out and drop it in their car and some unimaginative soul will take my jalopy and put a SBC in it. Fair enough? In other news: 55Packard will be relieved to know that the car's been repainted. I had to give up on the 1918 style cross having gotten sick to death of giving history lessons and explaining that it wasn't Nazi stuff. There were no graphics on the visor or roof. And my dog's a mutt just like the car, half hound and half Black Lab. He got rescued from a different junkyard, chained out to a coop with his food and water frozen in the bowls. I just couldn't have that. He actually likes the car too..., he told me so. :-) The whole idea behind the car was to build something early '50s made from whatever came to hand to a farm kid with no money. It's literally made from junk, the latest yr. part on the thing is a pedal set from a '55 Chevy. It took 5 different Mod A bodies to make one, that's how bad they all were. The frame is homemade etc. etc. At any rate, no rancor here. This forum provided an incredible amount of help and advice to me during the build and someday when I grow up maybe I'll have a real Packard like you guys. I'll see if I can get a pic attached of the new roller and brush paint job. Hell, maybe I'll make the 'Wall' twice with the same car. :-) Cheers, Fred
  9. Great! I'm just finishing an install of an R11 and in that process found out about the 90W GL1 mineral stuff. Since I took that opportunity to replace the badly leaking pinion seal on the rear I began wondering if I'd had the right stuff in the rear also. The GL1 didn't feel right to me either, but I needed a sanity check anyway. Thanks very much for putting my mind at ease. HP it is. Fred
  10. Gents, I'm wondering what weight and type gear oil I should be running in this '40 rearend. It's had plain old 85-90 HP Hypoid in it the past few years but I'm wondering if maybe it shouldn't have the Mineral based 90W like the R11 O.D. uses. Your collective thoughts?
  11. Thanks Coley, I will look into that too. I'm still exploring options. 'Still interested in that V reducer that Carcrank mentioned but I had a quick Question for Bill Dewey the supplier, and both his email addys get spit back so I'm a bit put off on score. I'll check with Obsolete Chevy Parts for starters re: the solenoid. Thanks again! Fred
  12. HH56, re: the stem length. Roger that. I have the standard 1" stem (actually more like 1 1/16 on mine). From what I'm finding out the longer stems are more like 1/2" longer and were on station wagons and commercial applications due to a crossmember issue. Does that sound right?
  13. Thanks for your response gents. From what I'm learning (?), that solenoid, pricey item that it is, needs consideration when converting voltage and polarity. My sources so far, as I'd mentioned are Pinto Electrics (phone), and Fifth Ave. Garage (website). Both warn of burnout @ 12v, Pinto questions the change of polarity also. I'm going to check into the resistor that Carcrank mentions. Dope that I am, I went ahead and bought a 12v to 6v resistor but it only has a 6 amp rating and so will not throw in the solenoid. My solenoid draws 4.1A in the hold position but I don't know what the 'throw in' Amperage is since it happens too fast for the digital voltmeter to pick up. So, I gambled and lost on that one. By the way, Fifth Ave.'s site is very good, with info. on correct lubricants for O.D. units, vintage engines, etc. Plus details on solenoid health. 'Well worth a look over. Stay tuned.........misery loves company! yours in winter doldrums, Fred
  14. Walt, does that home made shifter work and do you plan on using it? Don't throw that away just yet ! Thanks, Fred
  15. Gents, I need to change from my 6v pos. gr. solenoid to a 12v neg. gr. It appears so far that my options are A: a new unit from Fifth Ave. Garage or, B: Have mine rebuilt and converted over by Pinto Electrics. The rebuilt sounds like it will actually cost a bit more but I'm worried that the new units may be some flimsy 'almost right' import. Your collective thoughts/experiences ? 'Thanks in advance!
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