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Posts posted by johnworden1

  1. For the 2 tone wheel in a 41 Ford on which a high gloss finish didn't seem appropriate I used Dupont 2370S which is a flexible and matte clear. I matched one of the colors with Centari but needed to us Chroma Base for the second one. The matte clear killed the gloss on the Centari and worked as the clear over the Chroma Base. John Worden

  2. I've used Dupont Centari acrylic enamel with hardener. I believe any paint type ( polyurathane, urethane, acrylic urethane, acrylic enamel including clears etc. that requires hardener will work equally well. Also remember that the finish will only be as good as the preparation and undercoats. I use epoxy primer for the priming steps and I sand it so as not to leave a thick coating of it. Two part fillers such as epoxy, body filler, flexible filler etc. can be used to fill imperfections depending somewhat on what the wheel is made of. Use 600 grit for final primer sanding. Apply no more than 2 or 3 coats of color depending on paint type. Hang the wheel so that it can be rotated for easier sprayng. Don't touch it for a week. John Worden

  3. 2 VW 15 inch 5 bolt NO Vent steel rims $40 each plus shipping. 1 "whirlpool" VW brake drum. $35 plus shipping. Used on buses? 4 Porsche type 356 OEM chrome plated 4 1/2 J X 15" rims as follows; 2 Lemmerz dated 11-57, 1 KPZ dated 12-59, and 1 KPZ dated 2-58. These 4 wheels need various levels of repair and replating. $50 each plus shipping. 2 Porsche type 356 coupe doors. Passenger side high latch, driver side low latch, both with script glass and window frames and various hinge pieces. Lower sheet metal is rusty. Window frames show scratches in finish. Frames are anodized I think. $400 each. May trade for 1911 Excelsior motorcycle parts. John Worden Phone 641-474-2313 in Iowa Thanks.

  4. I have had decals made ( at considerable expense ) for the 0-60 mph speed indicating revolving drum in the Stewart speedo. They are a very accurate reproduction of the original. I can provide photos to anyone interested in buying one. I will most likely remove the old numbers and off white paint from the drum and repaint it before installing the new decal. I will probebly cut the decal into 2 pieces to make it easier to handle during application. I need $50 for each one and I have 4 to sell. Thanks. John Worden Green Mountain Iowa Phone 641-474-2313

  5. Steve, If it's of any help may I suggest that a typo or human error may be why the seller thought your Milburn was a 1915. If the title shows 1915 these two reasons may also apply. As far as dating your car I would look at the available photos of existing Milburns and to a lesser extent the factory ads to see which year Milburn shares the various parts such as headlight placement, wire or wood spoke wheels, bumpers, type of front leaf springs etc. with yours. Correctly dated cars with the same features as yours would, in my mind at least, indicate the year yours was built. The car number should fit in there also. John Worden

  6. If the floor is not available through the aftermarket I may be able to make the parts you need. I would need a measured drawing, or photo or the actual part for a pattern. I can provide photos of parts I have made. Send a SASE to John Worden 405 Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313

  7. The lift mechanism fits into the door through the window opening slot. Be sure to lubricate and check the moving parts for proper operation before fitting it into door. I think there are 3 small screws that secure the machanism and allow for some adjustment. After you get the mechanism in and loosely screwed into place, wind it down to it's lowest point to allow clearance for the glass and channel to fit downward into the interior of the door. I believe the window opening channel has to be removed before the glass can go in. The glass with lift channel attached go into the door also through the window opening slot. You may have to rotate the glass around some in order to get it to fit down into the interior of the door. While a helper holds the glass approx. half way to the fully closed position slowly wind the mechanism up to meet the glass and channel. This meeting of parts should be visible through the opening in the interior side of the door. Connect the lift channel and glass to the mechanism. Fit the window opening channel back in and 3 small rubber bumpers. Wind glass up and down to check its operation and tighten mechanism screws once you achieve free movement up and down. Adjust down stop as needed. John Worden

  8. Naval-jelly certainly is good for removing rust. RustMort type products aren't intended for rust removal. Instead, they chemically convert rust to something that is safe to fill, or prime over. I use it to treat metal that I'm not 100% sure that the rusting action is stopped. In those situations the peace of mind is priceless. John Worden

  9. If these are not available through the aftermarket, I may be able to make them. I would need photos, a measured drawing or the actual piece for a pattern. I can send photos of previous work to you If you will send a SASE. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313 central time

  10. Your cleaning steps will do a lot of good. After cleaning and before priming consider treating the pitted metal with RustMort by SEM or another product of that type. From experience I do recommend RustMort. John Worden

  11. Speedster, Your primer-filler-primer process is a proven one. I suggest using a regular filler instead of the glazing or finishing type for the rust pit filling you describe. I believe the glazing or finishing fillers were meant to fill surface defects such as pin holes and sand scratches. For the work you describe I would probebly prime, fill, sand with nothing coarser than 80 grit, apply a thin layer of glazing filler over all the previous filler to fill sand scratches and pin holes and sand with nothing coarser than 180 in preperation for another coat of primer. Guide coats work on fillers also. Tweek these grits to suit yourself and the products you use. I believe for the work you describe this method would quickly and efficiently eliminate the pitting on large areas. I don't reccommend using any type of primer to fill pits. High build primers are great products but they will fail if used in excessive thickness. My advice in your case is to achieve finish contour with filler and fill remaining sand scratches 180 or finer with primers only thick enough to do the job. Excessive mill thickness even in the best primers will most likely crack. John Worden

  12. Most if not all of the filler manufacturers now offer a material that requires the addition of hardener and are intended to replace the old one part glazes. These new fillers are of a fine texture, spread easily and level themselves somewhat. They are easy to sand with finer grit paper and I sometimes sand them wet. They can be bought in fairly small quantities also. I think they are more suitable to paint systems that use hardened primers, colors and clear coats than the old lacquer based putty. ( putty is for plumbers ) John Worden

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