johnworden1
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Posts posted by johnworden1
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Attempting to put a vintage Kemsway 4 Way bias ply tire truing machine back into service. Looking for any parts or operating instructions for it. PM me . Thanks.
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1 set used 320I fenders. Straight with some rust. $100/set 1 2002 right door inner sill extending back to wheel house. New aftermarket made in Denmark. $50 all plus shipping located in Iowa 50632 John
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I need operating info and parts for a KEMSWAY 4 WAY tire conditioner/balancer. It trues and balances bias ply tires. PM me. Thanks. John
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Must have approx. 8" tall opening and ceiling which is taller than standard to fit 1915 Milburn Light Electric Coupe which is approx. 7' 3" tall. Trailer can be standard in all other aspects. Phone 641 474 2313 home and shop central time in Iowa. Thanks. John Worden
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Includes engine no carb, trans, frame, rear axle and springs, fuel tank and cover, spare carrier, some of rear bumper, steering column, front springs, no front axle, damaged cowl, no instruments, all brake linkage, hood, left front fender, no title. surface rust on everything. Buyer takes all. $500.00 Located in central Iowa. Working on getting photos. John
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Thank you. It is a help. John
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Thank you all for the information. One last request. I don't have a front axle. With so many wheelbases and models offered from buick can anyone advise as to which axle/axles will fit this chassis? Would it be too much to ask for a photo of what I should look for if I see some separated from it's chassis? Thanks again. John
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Right rear wheel on 1930 model 57 Will a wire wheel bolt on?
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John, Michael, thanks. I'll try to post a photo in a day or so. I do have a damaged 57 cowl.
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Thanks John. John Worden
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I have a 1930 model 57 chassis. Were wire wheels offered from Buick for it? What make were they? I assume wood spoke wheels would have been standard. By looking at the rear brake drums and hubs how can I tell what type of wheel it was equipped with wire or wood spoke? Are there interchangebale parts to mount wires if my hubs won't accept them? Is there a Buick roadster body that will fit this chassis? My goal is to build a special of some kind on this chassis. Thanks much. John
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Post a close up photo of the fabric.
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Try Restoration Supply in California.
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SKIP, If you are referring to abrasive blasted metal I suggest thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the parts prior to blasting as the blasting can drive the contamination into pores in the metal as you strip the part. In quick succession clean with clean compressed air only and follow immediately with epoxy primer before flash rust can occur. Now apply filler ( I use Rage Extreme ) if needed. Sand. Prime. Sand. Clean with PPG DX 320 or Dupont 3812S or equivalent not wax and grease remover. Tack wipe. Color. I've used Por 15 on floors and like it.
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My understanding of the use of the various acids to treat bare metal goes like this. Some acid products remove surface rust and etch bare metal. Some acid products remove surface rust, etch bare metal and STOP further rust action with a conversion process. After 80 grit DA sanding and producing grinder scratches where I know filler will be used, I treat all exterior bare metal panels with the conversion type ( SEM RUST MORT ) because I know it will stop the extremely small unseen rust bits that DA sanding with 80 grit or grinding will not completely remove. This is extremely important because the rust will re-bloom sometime later if not stopped now. I think applying etch primer to a chemically etched panel is a waste of time and material. I also think that etched panels should not be cleaned with anything prior to priming unless it is certain that they have become contaminated. Why introduce another product and procedure to a panel that is prepped to the max already? The panel/car should have been throughly cleaned before any work was started. Properly used etch materials don't produce contamination. I usually next spray the panels/car with 2 coats of PPG DP epoxy primer mixed with the slower activator and the recommended amount of reducer. I feel that this mix of primer components allows a slower dry and therefore allows the primer to penetrate the microscopic pores of the metal for best adhesion. I've used a fair amount of RAGE EXTREME filler on bare metal as well as over epoxy primer and it works well. I'm using this procedure now on a 1940 Ford that will be painted with Glasurit urethane acrylic black.
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I may be able to make the part. How many brackets do you want? I would need dimensions, photo or drawing etc. Thanks. John Worden 641 474 2313 shop and home.
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To avoid filler strip the panels to bare metal, metal finish the damage and repaint. This will result in a fixed car, dirty hands and new skills. Avoid using filler over the paint to fill the dents as it will shrink and look horrid. There is no easy quick fix and hopefully was reflected in the purchase price. Luck.
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SEM Rust Mort is a rust converter type product.
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I've used a lot of SEM Rust Mort to treat bare metal before priming. Do a panel at a time and follow directions. Follow with epoxy primer. Etch primer and epoxy primer are 2 differant animals.
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Phil, If the pits are deep, grinding to eliminate them will change the contour of the piece which I assume you realize. Cast iron blocks can be welded so would it make sense to have a skilled welder fill the pits with cast iron weld rod? It would be tedious work for sure but you may end up with a better result. After the weld filling and grinding of the welded highs is done maybe a course blasting and /or some creative pick hammering to duplicate and restore the original look followed by a cast iron appearing coating if needed. luck. john
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Be sure to inspect EVERY piece throughly as soon as you recieve them no matter who you buy from. The set of 5 new wide ovals I ordered for the GTO were unacceptable due to surface flaws. Each one appeared to be made in a differant mold. I had to send photos of the flaws before they would exchange them. When it was time to buy a windshield I asked the supplier 3 times to SEND ME A GOOD PIECE OF GLASS. Sure enough there were easy to see unacceptable flaws in the glass when it arrived. John
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I have a one owner 68 GTO restoration in my shop now nearing the paint stage. For this car and other GTOs I've done I have probebly relied on Ames Performance for parts more than any other supplier. The are Pontiac only. They are reputable and have been around a long time. My biggest complaint about restoration parts is with sheet metal parts, fenders, quarters, etc made off shore no matter who sells them. I installed new aftermarket quarters on this GTO and I knew from previous experience what to expect. The initial fit was poor at best and they required several hours work to correct the contours and fit issues. It seems to me that a little time correcting the stamping dies would cut a substantial amount of time off the install time and result in lower labor costs to the car owner. I have more comments but I've got to get to work. John
WTB parts for 63 1/2 R code galaxy
in Ford, Edsel & Mercury - 1954 and Newer
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Need all factory shifter parts for T 10 trans. Rebuildable block. Various outside and interior moldings. Thanks. John