Jump to content

johnworden1

Members
  • Posts

    516
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by johnworden1

  1. First put on safety glasses and then securely grasp one end of the clip with vise grip pliers. Twist or flex the end with the pliers until it and the entire clip comes free. You MAY destroy them but I'll bet that if you are carefull the clips can be reused. Luck.

  2. My shop is in Green Mountain which is 7 miles NE of Marshalltown. Yes I paint cars. Some of my work is pictured in my albums posted on this site. Come over and visit sometime if you wish. Best to call ahead though. I'm usually in the shop 8 to 5 or so. I have a customers restored Milburn Light Electric Coupe at Accurate Upholstery there in Ames right now. Good to hear from you. Regards, John Phone 641 474 2313 home and shop.

  3. See 3 photos. One shows the original switch parts and the other two are 2 views of the original parts and new switch and machined parts to mate the pieces togather minus the actual original switch internals. This combination of new and original parts will control 12 volts that will in turn operate a Curtis/Allbright contactor handling 84 volts. I believe Milburn used this switch for a couple of years only and then replaced it with one of another design. I can provide measurements of the original Milburn pieces for those who want to fabricate a copy. Personnaly I would not trust the original switch to work without problems. I will sleep well knowing that 84 volts is controled by new switch gear. JW

    post-43671-143138015345_thumb.jpg

    post-43671-143138015359_thumb.jpg

    post-43671-143138015372_thumb.jpg

  4. I've decided to use 12 volts to operate a replacement ignition switch that will then trigger a solonoid operated contacter rated for 84 volts. I have made parts that will allow the new ignition switch to mate to the back side of the original Milburn switch and not be visible once the switch is inserted into it's mounting hole in the panel. I'm using only the accessory side of the switch to maintain the counterclockwise movement to the "run" position. I also provided a positive stop so the switch can move to "run" only. I also plan on making the charge circuit bypass the master switch. I'm working on this car now and will report back soon. John Worden

  5. Phil, Look for a restoration or hot rod shop in your area that has and knows how to use a Pullmax nibbler. Long louvers can be made with a Pullmax or other brand of recipricating nibbler. See photos of my machine at work and the result. Luck. John Worden

    post-43671-143138012126_thumb.jpg

    post-43671-143138012141_thumb.jpg

  6. Sounds like the cylinder is frozen in the casting due to the swollen pot metal. A locksmith may do the proceedure to release the cylinder and it may not freely come out due to the swollen pot metal. This will sound crazy but it might just work. Have the locksmith release the cylinder and then place the casting with cylinder stuck in place in your freezer for a few hours. Due to differences in contraction and expansion of different metals the severe cold may loosen the fit of the cylinder in the casting. Insert a slim hooked pulling tool into the key slot to pull with. If freezing does not work try heating instead. If these tricks don't work I suggest cutting the casting off the cylinder with a cut off wheel. Make as few cuts as possible and the pieces can then be inspected and measured for machining a new one. Cut carefully so as not to damage the cylinder. Good luck! JW

  7. I think the guts should come out without cutting the casting. I suggest you show it to a locksmith and ask if it can be removed. There is probebly a way to release the cylinder from the casting. I believe it would be like removing the lock cylinder from a more modern non- plunger type ignition. Probebly have to have the plunger pulled in as far as possible. Once the lock is out you will be able to look inside and possibly remove the swollen material. JW

×
×
  • Create New...