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johnworden1

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Posts posted by johnworden1

  1. SKIP, If you are referring to abrasive blasted metal I suggest thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the parts prior to blasting as the blasting can drive the contamination into pores in the metal as you strip the part. In quick succession clean with clean compressed air only and follow immediately with epoxy primer before flash rust can occur. Now apply filler ( I use Rage Extreme ) if needed. Sand. Prime. Sand. Clean with PPG DX 320 or Dupont 3812S or equivalent not wax and grease remover. Tack wipe. Color. I've used Por 15 on floors and like it.

  2. My understanding of the use of the various acids to treat bare metal goes like this. Some acid products remove surface rust and etch bare metal. Some acid products remove surface rust, etch bare metal and STOP further rust action with a conversion process. After 80 grit DA sanding and producing grinder scratches where I know filler will be used, I treat all exterior bare metal panels with the conversion type ( SEM RUST MORT ) because I know it will stop the extremely small unseen rust bits that DA sanding with 80 grit or grinding will not completely remove. This is extremely important because the rust will re-bloom sometime later if not stopped now. I think applying etch primer to a chemically etched panel is a waste of time and material. I also think that etched panels should not be cleaned with anything prior to priming unless it is certain that they have become contaminated. Why introduce another product and procedure to a panel that is prepped to the max already? The panel/car should have been throughly cleaned before any work was started. Properly used etch materials don't produce contamination. I usually next spray the panels/car with 2 coats of PPG DP epoxy primer mixed with the slower activator and the recommended amount of reducer. I feel that this mix of primer components allows a slower dry and therefore allows the primer to penetrate the microscopic pores of the metal for best adhesion. I've used a fair amount of RAGE EXTREME filler on bare metal as well as over epoxy primer and it works well. I'm using this procedure now on a 1940 Ford that will be painted with Glasurit urethane acrylic black.

  3. To avoid filler strip the panels to bare metal, metal finish the damage and repaint. This will result in a fixed car, dirty hands and new skills. Avoid using filler over the paint to fill the dents as it will shrink and look horrid. There is no easy quick fix and hopefully was reflected in the purchase price. Luck.

  4. I've used a lot of SEM Rust Mort to treat bare metal before priming. Do a panel at a time and follow directions. Follow with epoxy primer. Etch primer and epoxy primer are 2 differant animals.

  5. Phil, If the pits are deep, grinding to eliminate them will change the contour of the piece which I assume you realize. Cast iron blocks can be welded so would it make sense to have a skilled welder fill the pits with cast iron weld rod? It would be tedious work for sure but you may end up with a better result. After the weld filling and grinding of the welded highs is done maybe a course blasting and /or some creative pick hammering to duplicate and restore the original look followed by a cast iron appearing coating if needed. luck. john

  6. Be sure to inspect EVERY piece throughly as soon as you recieve them no matter who you buy from. The set of 5 new wide ovals I ordered for the GTO were unacceptable due to surface flaws. Each one appeared to be made in a differant mold. I had to send photos of the flaws before they would exchange them. When it was time to buy a windshield I asked the supplier 3 times to SEND ME A GOOD PIECE OF GLASS. Sure enough there were easy to see unacceptable flaws in the glass when it arrived. John

  7. I have a one owner 68 GTO restoration in my shop now nearing the paint stage. For this car and other GTOs I've done I have probebly relied on Ames Performance for parts more than any other supplier. The are Pontiac only. They are reputable and have been around a long time. My biggest complaint about restoration parts is with sheet metal parts, fenders, quarters, etc made off shore no matter who sells them. I installed new aftermarket quarters on this GTO and I knew from previous experience what to expect. The initial fit was poor at best and they required several hours work to correct the contours and fit issues. It seems to me that a little time correcting the stamping dies would cut a substantial amount of time off the install time and result in lower labor costs to the car owner. I have more comments but I've got to get to work. John

  8. First put on safety glasses and then securely grasp one end of the clip with vise grip pliers. Twist or flex the end with the pliers until it and the entire clip comes free. You MAY destroy them but I'll bet that if you are carefull the clips can be reused. Luck.

  9. My shop is in Green Mountain which is 7 miles NE of Marshalltown. Yes I paint cars. Some of my work is pictured in my albums posted on this site. Come over and visit sometime if you wish. Best to call ahead though. I'm usually in the shop 8 to 5 or so. I have a customers restored Milburn Light Electric Coupe at Accurate Upholstery there in Ames right now. Good to hear from you. Regards, John Phone 641 474 2313 home and shop.

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