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Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. All great looking cars (regardless of price!)...but more evidence that driving an old cars needn't be expensive, especially if you have a green thumb for mechanical bits.
  2. I went out and gave it a high pressure wash down at the spray wash (to break loose anything that might be floating around in there) and then I came home and gave it a quickie paint job. Finally, I put a little JB Weld on those pits. I built up the ring area a little but not TOO much because there's no way I'll get that centered in the port like the others, and then it might hang up on the ring when I'm putting everything back together. It's getting there!
  3. This is certainly not the optimal situation for an intake manifold, but I think it'll work, and it's what I have... I think the JB Weld will hold, and it's on the bottom of the runner, so a little black paint will render it not too noticeable. Obviously, you can see the difference between the bad runner and a good one. The sealing ring won't fit tightly, but they only locate the runner anyway. I'll use a thin film of orange RTV around the flange and where the sealing ring used to seat. The runner's lumpy and bumpy, but I don't think these were really designed for maximum flow anyway. The hard part was making sure it was clean enough inside so the engine doesn't ingest any rust particles. We'll see if it works... I'm not thrilled, but sometimes you do what you have to do.
  4. Here's where I am on this project: I got my new exhaust manifold (credit card still smoking)...unfortunately, my current intake manifold has been milled so much that the bosses where the retaining washers ride are not level between the intake and exhaust. My spare intake manifold has a runner that sat with water in it and must have frozen, so it has a big crack in the runner for cylinders 3 and 4. That's less of a problem that the cavernous rust that was inside that runner. To get it clean, I had to remove quite a bit of material, so now that runner is about 1/8" wider than the rest. So my choices are really two: 1. get the crack welded on the damaged manifold (or JB weld it...it's only through in one place) and hope my mixture distribution isn't too messed up by the larger runner or 2. find an unmilled used intake manifold. Anyone have a 4 bolt unmilled manifold lying around? Ben, I know you said you might have one, so if you could check it out, I'd appreciate it. If anybody has a third option that doesn't involve milling the new exhaust manifold down to the old intake, I'm all ears (which is a metaphor, of course).
  5. The style of switch depended on the carburetor. For example, my '53 could have come with either a Carter or a Stromberg, and they both used different switches.
  6. Buicks didn't have a floor switch; they used a microswitch on the carburetor and the commensurate wiring. If you have the right carb, you should notice the switch on the side.
  7. The grille on the Lincoln is from a '42. If the whole car's a '42, it's a rare one!
  8. I have an Innovate O2 setup with a long cord to run to the tailpipe of my various vehicles. Of course, I have to run 12 volt power in the Buick, so I just put another car's battery on the passenger floor. Out on the highway, the Buick runs in the low to mid 15s AFR, and it richens up to 12.5:1 under load. It's a little lean at cruise, but not dangerously. Needless to say, I'll be working on this when I get the car back together.
  9. Wow, thanks Joseph! Mine runs way hotter than that for some reason, which certainly doesn't help matters. I'll have to throw together another carburetor and try it out. Thanks again for checking that out for me.
  10. If the carburetor is overflowing, then you have a problem with the needle in seat in the carburetor OR an improper float level setting. You can lightly tap the top of the carb when it starts doing this with a small rubber or plastic hammer, or the plastic handle of a screwdriver to see if the needle and seat will unstick. Do NOT hit the carburetor hard. Tap on the float bowl. Most likely, however, the carb will need to come apart again. At this point, I would also be doing a fuel pressure check to see how much pressure my fuel pump was producing.
  11. The first two things I'd check: 1. Points...make sure they're still gapped correctly and they're clean. My '53 all of a sudden didn't start one day after running fine the previous day because the points were slightly corroded. Sitting over the winter can cause them to form a thin film of corrosion that a piece of emery paper will clean. 2. Idle passages...pull out the idle mixture screws (noting how many turns out they are first) and spray some carb cleaner in there. If you have access to an air compressor, blow out the passages. Report back after that! Of course, the fact that it sometimes runs well cold and not hot could be any number of things, but I always start with the easiest stuff and work my way up.
  12. Well, there's your problem! I ordered a new one, but Bob's said they're out! New ones should be in by the 5th or the 8th (they hope). I'm going to take this opportunity to flush out the block (it's not too bad, because it was hot tanked 10 years ago). I think I'll be able to make my current intake manifold work; it looks like I had about 1/8" milled off it. There's about 1/8" play in the exhaust/intake interface, and I use gaskets on the intakes rather than depending solely on the sealing rings (although they seem like a pretty swell idea!). We'll see how it goes in a couple of weeks...
  13. No need to apologize...I just wanted to make it clear that gaskets weren't the culprit in this situation. In this case, I think it was just a brittle old part, like you said above.
  14. Until yesterday, there were no audible leaks, and I've had the manifolds on there for probably five years or so now. I cut the intake gaskets from a set of Fel-Pros and used RTV to seal them to the head, and then I installed the combined manifold as per the service manual's instructions. I also used orange RTV on the heat riser gaskets, because I did have a slight issue with a leak there once. Thanks in advance for checking your exhaust temps!
  15. I don't use gaskets; I install them like the factory recommends.
  16. That's how I did it last time, Joseph. Do you have an infrared thermometer, Joseph? At idle in the driveway, my siamesed manifold runners near the exhaust port seem to run about 600* or even a little more, which seems pretty hot compared to all my other cars, and I want to minimize any chance of my new or new used one cracking. If you could check out yours after a run sometime, I'd appreciate it!
  17. Another 263 manifold has exhausted its last hydrocarbon...my '53 cracked its manifold all the way around its circumference, right behind cylinder #5. I'm about to bite the bullet and order a new one from Bob's (gulp!), but I'd figure I'd do a last minute check and see if anybody has any good, somewhat cheaper advice. I think I know the answer, but $710 is a lot of money for any single part. Oh well, 64 years is a good run, although the one that cracked was in the trunk of the car when I bought it because the one on the car had a slight crack in it! One other thing I just thought about. I had the intake milled quite a bit to even it and the current exhaust manifold out. I hope it will match up with a new exhaust manifold!
  18. Could you expand on what you mean when you say the lifters would collapse? Adjusting valves on a straight-8 can be a little touchy, and it's easy to get one too tight when you think it's just right. I'm not saying the mechanics are wrong here, because with cars, anything's possible; but if had more compression before you changed the head, it doesn't make a ton of sense that the pistons or rings are your problem.
  19. If you do replace the lifters, it's never a bad idea to break them in like you would a new cam...30 minutes at 2000-2500 RPM, varying speed. Use a break-in oil for your first fill. Use a thin smear of moly lube on the base, and make sure to get that engine started immediately (don't crank and crank).
  20. This is a drag. Motor Muster is my favorite car event of the year and I'll sure miss it if the wind's blowing the way it seems to be.
  21. Check all your pushrod ends. Mine made a noise and the only obvious culprit after teardown was a pushrod cup that had broken. It sounded for all the world like a bad rod bearing or wrist pin.
  22. The upper arm should be a breeze, since the spring is pushing on the lower arm and frame. Support the lower arm on a jack (and stand) and remove the upper threaded "pin." I'm assuming a '56 is similar to a '53 here (although a '53's upper arm is the lever shock), so maybe someone with '56 experience could back me up. On my '53, there were pockets in the frame so you could remove the nuts holding the upper arm (shock) in. I don't remember there being any reason to lift the engine.
  23. I did my passenger kingpin a couple of years ago, and I just gave the spindle to my machine shop to hammer out the old kingpin and install the new one. I figured they'd have the correct reamers to fit the bushings, and from what I remember, the labor bill was about the price of a set of reamers (or less), if I could even find them! Money well spent, in my opinion, and I'm normally a guy who likes to do as much as he can by himself. That would be my suggestion, but I'm sure others will offer theirs. Good luck!