Aaron65

This looks like it's worth someone's time... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1580549582306488/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined&referral_story_type=listing&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7215384249579380619"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"4360821180693374"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A4360821180693374%2C\"target_type\"%3A0%2C\"primary_position\"%3A7%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A2672882861266173952%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A504%2C\"value\"%3A4.1506555640861e-5}"} 1938 Cadillac 60 Special ***PROJECT CAR*** in original paint color of Cloud Mist Metallic Green. If you can read this ad the car is still available for sale. This is a solid car that is 98% rust free That starts, runs, drives, stops and does not overheat. Actual mileage unknown. This 1938 Cadillac 60 Special is a project car worthy of restoration. NOTE: this was recently a very nice car but during its previous ownership, about 8-10 years ago, the body received several dents when roof of the building it was stored in collapsed due to snow load. This put dents in the car’s roof, hood, and fenders. Some dents are minor and more significant. The dents can be hammered out and final body work and paint completed. It also needs a completely new interior upholstery job (seats are still there) and door panels need reupholster, needs a headliner and carpet set. I have a brand new correct headliner for the car from SMS upholstery still in the box and not installed. Some assembly on the dash is needed for the radio speaker grills and speedometer, I have those parts. It has good correct wide white wall tires that hold air. Full wheel disc chrome hubcaps. Much of the chrome has been replated and it comes with the original glass and chrome winged goddess hood ornament (not currently mounted on the hood). Car is solid. Floors and trunk pan or solid. Car has always been stored indoors. The only significant rust is in the roof right above the drivers side rear door. The listing photos were taken on December 6 and December 12, 2021. It has the original flathead V-8 346 cubic inch engine that runs well and smoothly, it starts dependably on the original 6 volt system. This was designer Bill Mitchell’s first car design at General Motors and is a milestone car, less than 1500 produced in 1938. If this ad is up the car is still for sale. I have clear Michigan title in my name in hand. Price is $8,900 cash, sorry no trades. The reason I am selling the car as I have too many projects. If you can see this post the car is still for sale. Thank you. See link below and copy and paste this link to see a YouTube video of the car running and driving in the parking lot of where I store the car on Sunday, December 12, 2021: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVk9fS7xYfA&feature=youtu.be

Great looking Corvair! Go check out corvaircenter.com; I've been following that forum for almost 15 years now.

I talked to a rep at Lock-N-Stitch, and those guys seem on their game on the phone. I had to send several pictures of the crack and I had to drill a hole to get the wall thickness. Then they'll put together the necessary items and give me a quote on materials. So far, it looks like the most plausible option aside from finding another block. Wish me luck!

Man, this is one of my favorite cars. I'm always surprised at how many have survived and are for sale out of a relatively low production run ('40s and '41s). If this were down in the 15 grand range, I'd probably be powerless to resist it. Of course, my beloved '53 Buick has a cracked block now, so I've got that to worry about, in addition to a T-Bird with a bad power brake booster, a Mustang that needs a pinion seal...........................

I just called up Lock-N-Stitch in California, and they asked me to send a bunch of pictures, a measurement of the length of the crack, and the thickness of the wall. I have to drill into the wall with a drill bit that's less than 1/8" and take a thickness measurement. It looks like a pretty good system, and I don't have a lot to lose at this point. Ed, I don't think it was previously welded; it's probably just the picture. It does look like there is some kind of light casting line near the crack. It's not really a paperweight until April or so when I get it out for the summer, so I have a little time to figure it out. It's my favorite car, so I'll fix it one way or another...it may take a few attempts.

Hi moderators - could you please leave this here rather than moving it to the Buick section? It's a general technical question and I'd like more eyes on it if possible. I found a cooling system leak on my '53 Buick with a 263 Straight 8; I made an amateur error by tearing the head off before pressurizing the cooling system to double check. I figured it was a head gasket leak when I first saw it, but looking at the location of the cooling passages and where the leak was, I now suspect it's a crack in the water jacket. I've included pictures below. A few questions: 1. Anyone have a good way to make this crack show up better? 2. I'm going to come right out and say it...is this a situation where JB Weld might work? 3. I'm not keen on shipping the engine of my $12,000 car to someone who stitches blocks, so is there anything else that's perhaps less expensive that I might be able to do? Obviously, this has been going on a while. I even brought something up about 10 years ago because I noticed a slight drop in antifreeze, but it was so slow that I just ran it. In hindsight, there were a few other clues like a milky breather that wasn't milky when I ran a hotter thermostat. Anyway, any help, even if it's just talking through options, would be helpful. Thanks! Aaron

Do the cassette tapes come with the car?

The small-block Ford was introduced in the '62 Fairlane and Mercury Meteor, but it was a 221, not a 223.

Hey all, I'm not really sure where to put this, but I found this as I was cruising Marketplace today...it's a bunch of '56 parts sitting on a lawn in Midland, MI. Maybe someone could use something? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/238411375007043/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined&referral_story_type=listing&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7423181295591396556"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"4328703887227047"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A4328703887227047%2C\"target_type\"%3A0%2C\"primary_position\"%3A66%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A856210913097678848%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A504%2C\"value\"%3A1.622389301533e-5}"}

Not to sound pessimistic, but I hope '40 and '41 Continentals get down to a price where I can afford one without feeling like I've risked house and home to do it. They've always been one of my favorite cars simply because I like the way they look - I've never driven one.

Chevy actually added a factory air dam on the front of '66 and later Corvairs because they tended to wander at highway speeds without it. The front ends on these things are, as you may expect, very light.

Check out the passenger side.

The fender emblems are upside down. I'd check the rockers carefully for rust; it's a common problem on these (I own one and did significant rust repair: lesson learned?) and this one is missing the rocker trim like mine is. I never redrilled the holes to install it when I did my rocker repairs.

What a deal! I paid $50 for my 1115, but I don't need all the emissions stuff (which the dealer I bought it from claimed didn't work anyway), and yours is in better shape. Great find!

That's good to know, Ben. I probably sealed those threads, but I really don't remember. This will serve as a reminder.

I have a decent oil leak on the passenger side of my 263, and I haven't been able to find it (even using dye). After a couple of months of head scratching, I decided to pull the pushrod cover and check things out in that area. Unfortunately, I found that the head gasket has been seeping into the lifter area, probably for years. Over the winter, I'm going to pull the head and have it checked out (the engine was rebuilt by my machine shop 15 years ago and probably has 15,000 miles on it). I'm guessing it's never been a huge leak because I've had my cooling system pressure tester on it, with no alarming results. But it explains the milky breather and water drips from the draft tube. Anyway, when I eventually get it all back together, I want to obviously avoid future leaks. Does anybody spray those "coated" steel head gaskets with coppercoat or anything similar? Thanks! Aaron

That is a beautiful car! My '63 T-Bird will do 10-12 (rarely) mpg no matter where or how I drive it - just part of the game in the "luxury" class, I guess.

I just bought mine - it didn't work on Google Chrome but it did on Firefox.

I did this by bending a cheap box wrench with a MAPP gas torch. I'd have to go out and look, but I might have even welded a socket on the top with which to engage the torque wrench. Even so, it's a little flexible, but once the wrench takes a set, it should be accurate. Loosen one bolt at a time and retorque it - don't just try to crank on it or you won't get an accurate reading.

Hey everyone, My '53 Special (263) has always leaked from its double-action fuel pump vacuum port. I've owned the car for 16 years, and I've either rebuilt the fuel pump myself or bought a remanufactured one probably 4 times. The pump stays dry for 6 months to a year or so, then it starts to weep, then it starts to leak. Is there a single-action alternative from a different year that will work on a 263? I almost never use the wipers anyway. I'm sick of the oil leak! Thanks!

That is super cool, although finding specific parts must be a nightmare!

From my previous comment: "I'm never embarrassed by my own work, as I could hardly care less what people think about me or my cars." I live and breathe cars. I've always loved "well-used" cars but also have a couple of nicer ones - I'm perhaps the poster child for really enjoying less-than-perfect cars. These questions about doing my own work annoyed me more in the abstract, which I thought I made clear, but if you can judge me as having a chip on my shoulder based on one offhand internet query, you're a better man than I.

Well, this has been an interesting discussion, and I hope nobody's been put off by either side. I tend to root for the underdog, so yesterday I imagined how I might feel if I didn't do much of my own work, and asked the question accordingly. I think the majority has spoken, so I'll let it go from now on when someone asks (or at least I'll attempt to).

Judging by the replies, I think I'm in the minority! Not the first time... I'm never embarrassed by my own work, as I could hardly care less what people think about me or my cars. I simply think the question is meant to belittle an owner who doesn't know how to do the work or chooses to have it done by someone else, or imply that if they didn't do the work, they don't deserve to own the car. Like I said, that doesn't really apply to me, but I think it it sends a bad message. Maybe it's just the tone I notice with people around here. Maybe I'm being cynical...that also wouldn't be the first time.

The great thing about forums such as this one is that we see a variety of people who think like we do and have some technical skills. It's therefore easy to forget that people like us aren't a majority in the "real world." Good points, both.