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Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. What year is the truck?
  2. I'm not sure...I bought mine three or four years ago, and I only use it when I make a carburetor change. A lot of people like the AEM units, so maybe one of them is worth a try.
  3. Mine only does one bank at a time, so you'd have to check and record them separately. I believe the LM-2 that you linked above will have more features than mine, but mine does have the capability of data logging on a laptop, although I haven't used it.
  4. All this talk about stoich is almost certainly accurate, but I do want to verify that stoich on your O2 guage will be 14.7 no matter what gas you're running...it's lambda, or 1. They set lambda to read 14.7 on the gauge at the factory, so if you're running E10, your gauge will still read 14.7 at stoich. Like NTX said, however, you'll find that tuning the car to run the best usually works the best, but the gauge is great for telling you how far out of the game you are, and it takes a lot of guesswork out of choosing jets/idle feed restrictor/air bleed sizes.
  5. Here's a picture of my hookup on the Firebird. Sure, I look like a dork going down the road, but I only need to use the system when I'm tuning something.
  6. https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-MTX-L-Wideband-Ratio/dp/B004MDT8MW This is the one I use. You can buy an "extension cord" and tailpipe clip to transfer it among vehicles if need be; otherwise, you'll have to have a bung welded into your exhaust system. I check 40-50 mph cruise, 70 mph cruise, and full throttle AFRs, and it will also verify if that sag or bog you're feeling is lean or rich (and how much). I do not generally use it to set idle (I use vacuum). One thing I learned is that you should not try to tune for a specific AFR number. My Mustang gets nervous when it's leaner than stoich and my Firebird runs just fine. By the way, on these gauges, 14.7 is stoich, no matter what gas you're running. I called Innovate to check on that. Therefore, it doesn't matter (according to them) if you are running straight gas, E10, or E85; stoich will show up as 14.7 (because they program that as lambda). Good luck either way...you can't really tune using plugs for a street car anymore because of the way modern gas burns. My Firebird's plugs are almost spotlessly clean, and it runs 15.0 on the gauge on the highway with no surging (which is a totally acceptable number).
  7. Old cars wear the light perfumes of gasoline vapors, antifreeze, and oil. If it's not overpowering, it's just part of the romance. Drive and enjoy...put the wrenches down until something breaks.
  8. I'm running a NOS late-'70s 1945 on my '65 Dart right now, and it runs a lot better than any of the other carbs I've tried. Granted, my engine is a 225 from a '74 Charger, but someone had disabled the EGR system before I bought the engine, and my car doesn't have a carbon canister or anything. I checked the AFR with my wideband, and it cruises at around 15:1 and runs maybe 13.7:1 under power (which is a little lean). As far as driveability is concerned, it runs really well, with no hesitations. I did convert the Dart to an orange box electronic ignition with the distributor from the '74 engine, but that shouldn't make much of a difference over a points ignition. Just putting an option out there that I've used successfully. YMMV, as always. Cars are fickle sometimes. Another thing you may want to check: the later carbs are set up for cable throttle linkages. Someone converted mine at some point in the past, but if yours doesn't use a cable, that could be a problem.
  9. Here are a couple of seemingly good options for you. Buy a rebuild kit just in case you need a part along your way (or just go through them and check everything just in case). The first one is new and the second one is a Holley remanufactured one. I'd probably go with the NOS, even though the shipping is stupidly expensive. They both seem to equal about the same price. There aren't any guarantees in old carbs, but NOS means nobody's messed with it! http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-HOLLEY-CARBURETOR-H11945-HI1945-R8593-C7311-225-198-Dodge-Chrysler-1974-87-/232354066254?hash=item361961af4e:g:YiUAAOSwKOJYIHLC&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLLEY-1945-CARBURETOR-Reman-by-HOLLEY-64-3118-/332244806666?hash=item4d5b556c0a:g:yzkAAOSwPh5ZLcbh&vxp=mtr
  10. This is one (somewhat older) thread about parts store remanufactured carbs from slant six.org. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17937 The guy named "Slant Six Dan" is EXTREMELY knowledgeable about all things slant six; he's a really bright guy with a long-time love for these cars, so take his advice seriously when you see it. I've never heard or read about anyone using the Daytona carb. It might be worth a call to ask them what it's all about since you don't have much time to play around with getting a carb that works. One thing I noticed in the thread I linked: many of the people who posted have been through several carbs before they found one that worked well for them. It seems like a common theme among people who like these engines.
  11. I attended Motor Muster yesterday...what a sad state of affairs. The car count was down at LEAST half, probably more like two-thirds. We're usually there for hours, but I think we only made one loop through the show field this time. Even the crowd was down; I found a parking spot easily, whereas normally there are people parking on the grass and anywhere they can find an opening. Every president, CEO, and Board of Directors throughout history have found a need to put their stamp on things through change. Sometimes it's good and sometimes it's bad, but humanity is progress-minded, even when it seems like lateral or backwards progress to many of us. This one certainly hasn't worked out for car people who enjoyed the show. My wife buys me a membership every year, largely because of MM and OCF; therefore, if the current trend becomes policy, she can save her money for car parts for me. I guess I shouldn't be surprised by an organization that changes the name of its prime institution to "The Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation"; never mind that many of the fantastic displays within were not concocted on our shores.
  12. Don't worry about the main jet being worn; they generally don't wear out unless someone strips the threads or damages them in some way. Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold runners (just to rule that out)? Did you check the number on the main metering jet? It should be in the 57-58 range. If it's smaller than that, the jet could be too lean. None of that will cause you squealing, however, so it's possible that your mechanic used an incorrect carburetor base gasket or something. There are two base gaskets for slant sixes: one has a little hole in it for a vacuum port and the other does not. Yours should. If it doesn't, you won't get any vacuum at (I believe) the vacuum advance. Have you checked the choke pulloff diaphragm to make sure it holds vacuum? If not, that could cause a major vacuum leak. Your 1920 looks like it's a later emissions carburetor (from the 1970s), just in case you were trying to determine that.
  13. I didn't have that many bad remans in a row; I just had a lot of old carburetors with a lot of problems. I'm a member of the slantsix.org and forabodiesonly.com forums, and the general consensus on both forums is that remanufactured carburetors for slant sixes are best avoided. The available carbs were built cheaply, and if you get 50 years of mechanics overtightening things, all mixed up with worn throttle shafts (which they all seem to have by now), it's not as simple as just throwing a kit in it and putting everything back to specs. The remanufacturers seem to throw them together "close enough" and ship them out the door, which is not "done right," and that's the problem. Finally, Holley 1920s are notorious for clogged metering blocks, and they're nearly impossible to clean for the average hobbyist. Additionally, the fuel bowl and cover warp and are very hard to seal up, which is why I kind of gave up on them.
  14. Slant sixes came with Holley 1920s and 1945s, Carter BBSs, and even Strombergs (for a couple of years). My '65 Dart came with a remanufactured 1920 on it, and it was garbage. I finally found a NOS Holley 1945 on eBay and installed it "as-is" and it works great. It was even in its original box; I just hosed it off with some carb cleaner and it's been running well for over a year now. The unfortunate thing is that there are no really great single-barrel options for the slant six, so you just have to take what you can find and make it work. I would not go with a reman unless I absolutely had to. With that being said, it took me about four tries to get a carb I liked; the rest were just flat worn out. If you like Carters, watch out for past mechanics overtightening the carb lid on them; they are very easy to warp and then they leak. I've tried everything but a Stromberg on mine, and the 1945 was best (but none of them are really all that impressive). Good luck!
  15. Look at the car very carefully. If you know old cars, and your name leads me to believe you do, you are part way there...BUT, Corvairs are a bit of a different animal. Plus, they're pretty easy to find (and comparatively cheap to buy), so it's usually a good idea to find a good one (unless you like working on cars a lot, and there's nothing wrong with that). http://autoxer.skiblack.com/nallm/prebuychecks.pdf This may be helpful!
  16. It might be a matter as simple as the shift linkage being out of adjustment. The procedure is delineated in the shop manual, although it does take a little finagling (especially when everything's a bit worn).
  17. Me too! I've been flirting with the idea of buying an Amazon (they're cheaper!), so I've had Volvos on the mind for a while. Unfortunately, it's the same problem as many of us have...I was out of room two cars ago!
  18. This is the finished product so far. As I did last time, I cut four intake gaskets from a standard gasket set and used some Gaskacinch to attach them to the head. Then, I mixed up some motor oil and graphite lock lube as a lubricant for the cylinder head/exhaust manifold interface before attaching the intake/exhaust as a unit. I torqued the manifolds to the head (approximately 25 lb./ft.), and then I torqued the exhaust manifold to the valve body, and finished with the intake manifold to valve body bolts (they are only torqued to 10-15 lb./ft.). I did use a gasket for the intake manifold to valve body interface because both were significantly pitted. I also coated the gasket with a thin layer of High-Temp RTV. So far, I have a very small leak at the manifold between cylinders 6 and 7, but it goes away after about 30 seconds to a minute of running. I imagine it will seal itself up after a bit of run time, but if not, I'll likely try loosening everything and retorquing it. The cylinder head is a bit pitted where the exhaust manifold mounts, so I'd like to run gaskets for a completely leak-free seal, but I've had poor luck with them in the past. If this manifold ever cracks, I'll probably build a header for it, but I hope that's far into the future. The quality of the manifold from Bob's is good, but it's costly. My JB Welded intake manifold runner is shown in the second picture; everything seems to be working well there. I checked the manifold vacuum and it's idling at over 20", so I'm comfortable saying there aren't any appreciable vacuum leaks as of right now.
  19. Clark's Corvair is still around and is a wonderful place to buy parts. It's always my first stop and they rarely disappoint. I've also bought from California Corvairs, which has also been good. Parts availability is a lot better for my Corvair than it is for my Buicks or my Dart, so if you want a Corvair, don't let parts availability keep you away. Do your research, however, because Corvair values are pretty low, so buying a nicer car upfront is usually the best decision. When I bought mine 10 years ago, I did not buy a very good one and it's like driving a submarine I'm so underwater in it. I've learned a lot about Corvairs and had a good time, so I'm not too upset. It's a good thing I do most of my own work.
  20. To follow up this thread, I got everything back together again and it's working normally so far. I hooked up my wideband and rejetted the spare junkyard Stromberg I had in my attic, so we'll see how it goes...thanks to all who offered feedback and insight!
  21. All great looking cars (regardless of price!)...but more evidence that driving an old cars needn't be expensive, especially if you have a green thumb for mechanical bits.
  22. I went out and gave it a high pressure wash down at the spray wash (to break loose anything that might be floating around in there) and then I came home and gave it a quickie paint job. Finally, I put a little JB Weld on those pits. I built up the ring area a little but not TOO much because there's no way I'll get that centered in the port like the others, and then it might hang up on the ring when I'm putting everything back together. It's getting there!
  23. This is certainly not the optimal situation for an intake manifold, but I think it'll work, and it's what I have... I think the JB Weld will hold, and it's on the bottom of the runner, so a little black paint will render it not too noticeable. Obviously, you can see the difference between the bad runner and a good one. The sealing ring won't fit tightly, but they only locate the runner anyway. I'll use a thin film of orange RTV around the flange and where the sealing ring used to seat. The runner's lumpy and bumpy, but I don't think these were really designed for maximum flow anyway. The hard part was making sure it was clean enough inside so the engine doesn't ingest any rust particles. We'll see if it works... I'm not thrilled, but sometimes you do what you have to do.
  24. Here's where I am on this project: I got my new exhaust manifold (credit card still smoking)...unfortunately, my current intake manifold has been milled so much that the bosses where the retaining washers ride are not level between the intake and exhaust. My spare intake manifold has a runner that sat with water in it and must have frozen, so it has a big crack in the runner for cylinders 3 and 4. That's less of a problem that the cavernous rust that was inside that runner. To get it clean, I had to remove quite a bit of material, so now that runner is about 1/8" wider than the rest. So my choices are really two: 1. get the crack welded on the damaged manifold (or JB weld it...it's only through in one place) and hope my mixture distribution isn't too messed up by the larger runner or 2. find an unmilled used intake manifold. Anyone have a 4 bolt unmilled manifold lying around? Ben, I know you said you might have one, so if you could check it out, I'd appreciate it. If anybody has a third option that doesn't involve milling the new exhaust manifold down to the old intake, I'm all ears (which is a metaphor, of course).
  25. The style of switch depended on the carburetor. For example, my '53 could have come with either a Carter or a Stromberg, and they both used different switches.