Aaron65

Members
  • Content Count

    1,026
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. One nice thing about digital proliferation is how easy it is to take a nice picture, even with a crappy pocket camera like mine. I took this one of my Firebird last autumn, and tried to make it look like it was taken back when the car was new. Of course, the radials give it away. Sorry for the non-Buick.
  2. Thanks! I live in an old neighborhood, which also helps. The only thing killing the picture is the phone company line box in the background.
  3. My wife and I took the '53 to the local antique festival, and I played around with the editing software when I got back.
  4. Every radial conversion I've seen for 7.60x15 was either 225/75R15 or a 235/75R15. A 275 section tire is wider than the tire on a modern Mustang GT. Coker's website recommends a 225/75R15 in their radial.
  5. The original size was 7.60x15. I have a set of Coker Classics on mine, but I may consider radials the next time I need tires.
  6. I drove my Skylark about three hours round trip to Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags this weekend. Only used about a half tank of gas, so not too bad.
  7. Nothing better than looking out over the hood of an old car, letting the miles roll by.
  8. Pressurizing the cooling system and checking for leakdown will help verify your theory very quickly. If there's a cooling system leak big enough that antifreeze is getting into the oil, the pressure should drop immediately.
  9. I don't think there's any passage between the coolant temp sensor and any oil passages, but I'd like someone else to back me up on that. At this point, I think it might be worth renting a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the cooling system and see where the breach is. If you have a borescope for your smartphone (or just a borescope), you can look in all the cylinders to see if any are leaking. It seems like you'll probably be doing the head again, this time with a few friends or an engine hoist. I'm wondering if you damaged the head gasket sliding the head around to get it into position. It's really heavy! If you DO have to remove the head, check the bottoms of all your new lifters for wear. All of that cranking with no compression (and no oil splash!) isn't good on cams/lifters that are trying to get used to each other. Good luck!
  10. I also attended yesterday, and I was really glad to see a good turnout after the whole Motor Muster mess earlier this year. Yesterday was a great show.
  11. Here's a link to the main shop manual ('53 only had a supplement for the V8 and the new torque converter, etc.) https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/52_shop/index.php
  12. Congratulations! I think you'll love it.
  13. I don't think it's the right material (neither is mine). This is a page from the brochure showing the original fabrics.
  14. That's a familiar looking car! I have one just like it! It's quirky compared to a '60s car, but I love mine more than pretty much any other inanimate object I own and most people. Good luck!
  15. These guys are pretty knowledgeable; maybe they can help... http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php
  16. I don't want to brag for Martin (Laughing Coyote), but he's restoring a '61 Mercury over in the "Projects" section, and his restoration skills are unreal. He's certainly not a rookie like some on this thread have assumed.
  17. I'll second Bob on the Permatex aviation sealer (#3). It cleans up easily and seals well. I've used it on all kinds of threads and gaskets, but I always use it on water pump and thermostat gaskets.
  18. I would definitely replace those lifters. If you do, make sure to do a cam break-in just like if you were replacing the camshaft. Get it started immediately (no excessive cranking, time it precisely the first time), and run it up to 2000 rpm or so for at least 20 minutes. The problem here if you're on a budget? New hydraulic lifters for a 263 are very expensive. The ones in your hand, however, are toast. Are they all like that? You could get away with just replacing the bad ones (and breaking them in correctly). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-16-lifters-1948-49-50-51-52-53-HYDRAULIC-new-straight-8-263-320-VL1H-hyd-/151257194374
  19. Hey Vernon, I used some leftover brush on engine enamel I bought from Bob's Automobilia probably 10 years ago; I believe they labeled it Buick Turquoise.
  20. The steering wheel will have to be removed to get to the switch/cancelling assembly. I found this picture with a quick Google search; it's from corvairkid.com. It's from a late model Corvair, but I'd imagine they're similar.
  21. I just had a similar problem in my '65 Skylark, but it was intermittent. I finally pulled the lid, removed the primary venturi cluster (it's an AFB), blew out all passages, and put everything back together with the same gaskets. Problem solved (for now anyway). I'd make sure I had some gaskets on hand, but it doesn't take too long to partially disassemble the likely suspects and clean them up. Heck, you might get away with blowing a little compressed air through the idle needle port in the carb.
  22. There were no "'64 1/2" fastbacks, and as mentioned above, all Mustangs were titled as '65s anyway. However, two of the main differences between what Mustang enthusiasts call a '64 1/2 and a '65 are the alternator-equipped charging system and some engine changes (no more 260, no more 170, etc.). The fastback came out later in the model year, and they all had alternators. At any rate, the car pictured above is a '65, having a '65 gas cap and '65 wheel covers.
  23. Here's a selection of screws I found after a quick search...you may want to give them a call. http://www.carburetion.com/sitesearch.aspx?category=ScrewTC&Title=Screws for Throttle and Chokes OR, If you figure out the size, McMaster Carr ships really quickly... https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-flat-head-screws/=18enn4a
  24. It looks like the 330 is an FE/FT engine, so it would be in the same basic family as a 352/360/390 Ford. I know there are some differences in the car and truck engines, so I'd head over to ford-trucks.com and ask them what engines would be easiest to swap. I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a decent running engine without too much difficulty. Here's one link I found... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1098326-1964-f-600-engine.html
  25. The key to happiness in the old car hobby is lowered expectations. I'll probably never own the '41 Continental of my dreams, but I have more than a garage load of cool stuff, and other than my '53 Buick ($6500), the most I paid upfront was $4084 (on eBay). Of course, that's just the beginning of the money spent, but I like working on cars (as frustrating as it can sometimes be). If you're not going to be happy unless you have a mint '69 Camaro or a concours '53 Skylark, of course you're going to feel like the hobby has turned its back on you. If you keep an open mind and truly just like old cars, you'll find something to suit you. And if you're worried that the cruise-in crowd is going to bash your business, you're hanging out at the wrong places... My Dart wagon, which I bought from a salvage yard, draws more admirers than almost anything else I own. It's a weird old beater and people love it. I cruise craigslist and eBay weekly, and there's always something to trip my breaker. Last week, I was drooling over a '61 MG Midget online; it was only bid up to $3800. At a car show/swap meet last week, I saw the coolest '77 Suburban in the world with almost no rust...$5500. Auburn seeker posts good deals on here all the time. None of them are LS6 Chevelles, but they look fun nonetheless. Lowered expectations, friends...