Aaron65

Yes it will work. I used one in mine.

I'd replace the MC and eliminate it as a variable.

That's the coil man...It's an HEI ignition. http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/perf/full/4776-03141741-1236364.pdf Looks like it just might be a little stuck. Your coil could also be bad. Might be worth just waiting until Tuesday morning. Testing GM HEI coil in cap

At this point, there are quite a few things that could cause poor performance and backfiring in that car. Is this your daily driver? If so, if it's in the cards $$$, I'd take it to a shop that can deal with it. I'm sensing that you're about ready to start throwing parts at it, and that is going to be a waste of money. Like John said before, there are about a billion vacuum lines on that thing, any of which can be leaking and leaning the car out. There's an air pump check valve (most likely), but that would probably cause backfiring upon decel. I'm not sure if that car has an OBD-1 system in it, but if it does, I've tested those systems with a paper clip in five minutes. At this point, if it's NOT your daily driver, I'd do a little research, and determine a course of action. My checklist would include #1. vacuum hoses--listen for any whistling underhood. Now would be a time to pick up a vacuum gauge and do a test. #2. timing--AutoZone may rent timing lights. Learn how to use it...now's a good time. #3. Computer system? If it has one, how do I check it? That would tell you (most likely) if you have an EGR issue. #4. This car likely has the emissions QuadraJet, which has probably never been rebuilt. Who knows what kinds of problems this could cause. If time is not a factor, you can do this and learn some stuff as well. If time is a factor, I feel you're better off enlisting help here. P.S. Do yourself a favor and buy a Haynes manual for this car. I buy an original shop manual or a Haynes manual for every car I buy.

Maybe I'm off base here, but I can get a master cylinder rebuild kit for my '53 at the local Auto Value for five bucks. Is the '38 master that different?

Have you checked the timing???

I did lube the speedometer cable when I bought the car six years ago...I'll try it again...I do have some speedometer cable graphite lube. Thanks for the tip on Bob's!

It does have a thermostat, Jim...a 160.

Thanks! It's interesting to hear about the quirks that specific makes and models, and even engines, had. I was just curious because my 60s cars don't have the same issue...however, I do run a 160 stat in the '53, since it's mostly a warm weather car. That may add to the issue.

My '53's speedometer bounces around when it's cold...It doesn't make noise, but I have a feeling it may need some service. Anyone know of a good speedometer repairer? Obviously, I don't need to break the bank either, so I guess I'd like someone who does a good job at a fair price...Thanks! Aaron

Does anyone else have a snotty oil breather? I've noticed that my '53 (with no PCV, obviously) has been doing this, especially in the cooler weather. I assume it's because of condensation, since it also drips water from the draft tube after a longer trip as it cools down. It's not really a short trip car, and the oil on the dipstick is fine, and the lower block breather is clean. Just wondering if I'm the only one here with this issue. Nothing smells like anti-freeze or anything. The mesh in the cap collects what looks like snot. It's kind of gross.

This may have been mentioned already, but is this the only master cylinder you've tried (even if you've rebuilt it)? If that's the case, I'd be sourcing another core and rebuilding it. Something has to be funky about that one.

The only differences (that I know of) is in the rocker shaft assemblies--you could get either solid or hydraulic...make sure to get the right one!

That is a BEAUTIFUL car. I'm jealous. You're a strong man, Matt, picking up those beauties and selling them! On the other hand, you get to experience all kinds of great cars too...

Kind of an interesting one for someone who wants an original '80s car... 1983 SKYLARK 33,000 MILES It's in Michigan...

The side glass isn't the same between a coupe and convert. Some interior panels are different too.

The owners manual calls for AC 44 heat range plugs for 2 and 4 barrels...but they aren't readily available anymore, which is why I'm running 43s.

AC R43S is what I'm running in mine right now, but Autolite 85 plugs are OK too...

Thanks for all the replies...I'll take a look at them this winter, after I rebuild my Mustang's automatic transmission that has a lazy 2-3 shift (sorry Bernie--but they DO have inexpensive parts!).

Thanks for the pics!

Any special tools, Bernie?

The old '53's got a little whine from the rear end on the drive side...it seems to be a little worse than it used to be, so I'm getting used to the idea of putting in new pinion bearings and carrier bearings over the next year or two. I've set rear ends up before, but the torque tube in the way is new to me. Any tips or tricks? I'll probably end up taking the carrier and torque tube to the machine shop to have the press work done, etc.

Over the winter, I was planning on replacing the front wheel bearings on my '53, and the rear axle outer bearings and seals as well. A few of the balls in the front bearings are chipped away, so it's time...WOW! These are expensive! Rock Auto is insane, and Bob's doesn't seem to have front outers in the catalog, plus they're still very expensive! Anybody find a bearing house with nice prices? Thanks...

John, I'm thinking the cam to lifter point is oiled by splash lubrication from below. Very little oil is getting past the lifters on one of these, and there are no oil galleries in the lifter bore, so the only place they can be fed is from above: in this case from the pushrods. All very interesting compared to other engines. Looking into one of these things was an experience compared to my '60s cars...except for the Corvair, now that's another story entirely!

Like Dave said, here in the Midwest (Michigan in my case), there aren't many non-ethanol options. It's pretty much 10% or nothing. I've just jetted everything up one step. The big problem I've noticed is harder hot starting over the last few years, but that could be due to any number of chemical changes in gasoline. Don't get me wrong, I think what they're selling as gas is junk for old cars and anything with a carburetor, but it may not be just the ethanol speaking.