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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I cleaned up the valvetrain with kerosene (Would brake cleaner or carb cleaner be better?). Using wire, I cleaned the rocker arm oil passages to the push rod balls as best I can. I cannot seem to get the wire all the way to the rocker arm shaft. I there an easier way without disassembly?

    No...you'll want to disassemble that thing. It stinks but if it's gunked up the rockers aren't getting oiled and they're getting scored. You'll want some pipe plugs for the ends (I forget the size--1/2" maybe?). I used a shotgun barrel cleaner for a 12 gauge to clean it out. I used small drills (by hand) to clean the gunk out of the rocker passages and I disassembled the adjustment screws because there was a lot of gunk in there too (mine has hydraulic lifters).

    I want to drop the oil pan to clean out the gunk. I want to confirm that I don't need to lift the engine to remove the pan.

    I pulled it on my '53. I did have to jack the car up a little and rotate the crank to make it clear, but it did. I did not have to remove any steering components. It will help to have a friend man the jack and wrench on the crank. The toughest part was keeping the gasket in the right spot the whole time.

    Any advise would be appreciated!

    Thanks, Frank

  2. Let me preface this by saying I only drive Ford or GM cars (I like Chryslers too, but don't own one). GM and Ford have yet to get their quality in line. Some examples of my cars and my family's cars over the years--

    2004 Impala...rear window defrost doesn't work...no voltage

    2000 Century...a transmission that shifted so harshly that a Super Stock drag racer would be annoyed. (Very common problem with these from the research I did) Fuel gauge didn't work.

    2000 Blazer...shot ball joint and idler arm at 80,000 miles (granted, not a huge deal, but far from isolated amonsgt Blazer owners) Fuel gauge didn't work.

    1999 Century...power windows wouldn't work...bad ground connector in the junction block in the A-Pillar (I don't know how I found that)

    1996 Regal...Engine died because of massive wire corrosion in the engine compartment fuse block

    1994 T-Bird 3.8...head gaskets blown at 55,000 miles

    Countless mid and full size 2000s GM cars with windshield wipers frozen in the up position driving around my town.

    Many of these are not big problems, but problems a new car buyer should not expect when buying a car that's even 10 years old. GM and Ford may be scoring well in initial quality, but I think it's 5 and 10 years down the road where it gets bumpy. With that being said, I would still never drive a Toyota, Honda, or what have you...

  3. For cold starting, try leaning the choke out a couple of notches...I think your hot starting problem is getting more common as a result of the stuff that passes for gasoline lately...my '53 and my Corvair both start hard hot as a result of heat soak...I've tried almost everything...nature of the beast I think.

  4. I personally think that's a bit high. That car's going to need a lot of bodywork, and that's the stuff most people like doing the least. However, if it is structurally sound, it can be done. I have seen Rivs in that age range in much better shape for $5000-$7500. On the other hand, I've paid too much for cars and put more money into them than they were worth (my Corvair)...so if you're dead set on getting this one, get the best deal possible! I'd say no more than 1500, but that's just me.

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